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Old 09-06-2020, 06:50 AM   #15
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OK... first off, I am deaf which means that I cannot hear these squeaks and popping noises that posters to the Spartan Chassis Forum speak of. So what to do? I have no clue if my rig is needing the joints. I also would like to know why Spartans are so prone to bad ball joints. Apparently, Spartan has been having issues with them for at least 20 years. Guess I'll take my rig to Rush Truck Ce.nter and have them lube it PDQ.
In this particular case, hearing is not so important. Clicks and squeaks and pops don't tell you where they're coming from anyway. Sound travels and it can be really hard to even tell which side might have a problem, at best. The same is true of steering feel, steering play, shimmy, and vibration.

If you grasp the tie rods, and try to rotate them about their ball joints, they should be hard to move by hand, considerably stiffer than automotive tie rods. If you pry at them with a screwdriver, they should not move up and down. The cotter pins should be intact on all of them with no signs of loosening nuts. The boots should be in good condition, too, and bulging a bit with grease (not flat). If the boots are flat, then regrease them or have them greased if there are grease fittings. If you're not sure, by all means ask a pro to inspect them.

HTH...
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Old 09-07-2020, 04:11 PM   #16
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Why Are Spartan Chassis Ball Joints So Problematic?

Added grease fittings to my balljoints this morning. Joints still tight, boots gone.
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Old 09-08-2020, 07:27 AM   #17
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Added grease fittings to my balljoints this morning. Joints still tight, boots gone.
Attachment 300202Attachment 300203
Nice! Coach looks clean underneath too.
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Old 09-08-2020, 11:40 AM   #18
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Why Are Spartan Chassis Ball Joints So Problematic?

Thanks. Very clean for a 2002 model. We’re in Texas so that helps.

Found a broken sway bar bracket while under there. It pays to get under these things and spend some time looking around.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-08-2020, 02:35 PM   #19
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Thanks. Very clean for a 2002 model. We’re in Texas so that helps.

Found a broken sway bar bracket while under there. It pays to get under these things and spend some time looking around.Attachment 300300


I have had two of those brackets break. Always carry a spare or two.
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Old 09-08-2020, 02:36 PM   #20
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Added grease fittings to my balljoints this morning. Joints still tight, boots gone.
Attachment 300202Attachment 300203


Can you share the details of that install? I should probably do the same.
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Old 09-08-2020, 03:29 PM   #21
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Why Are Spartan Chassis Ball Joints So Problematic?

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Can you share the details of that install? I should probably do the same.


Sure. I will later this evening.
Can you find the part number for that sway bar bracket for me? Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2020, 05:42 PM   #22
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You’ll need a 1/8” tapered pipe tap, an 11/32” drill bit and a smaller starter bit. Nothing special as the joint caps are pretty soft metal. I used a small step bit to get started, and just eyeballed the center of the joint caps.
Be aware there’s not much room between the upper balljoint and the cap. I almost needed to cut the very end off my tap to get it deep enough for the fitting to start. If the tap bottoms out and you force it you’ll either strip your new threads or break the tap. Usually a tapered pipe tap needs to be about halfway in the hole to be big enough to get the tapered fitting to start. But tapered taps vary slightly.

Since the joints were bone dry, I used compressed air directed at the area the boot was missing from under the joint to make pressure inside the joint which forced the shavings out while drilling and tapping. Did this dry. And really it’s a 2 person job though I managed it by myself.
Others have coated their bits and taps with grease to collect shavings while doing it. Either way will work. “Normal” common grease zerk fittings are 1/8” tapered pipe thread. Any Auto or hardware store will have them.
Turned the wheels all the way to the right and had my front leveler all the way out and a heavy dut stand under the center of the front cross member.
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Old 09-08-2020, 07:41 PM   #23
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Tip ---- Buy 2 taps and grind one down about 1/4 " then you have a bottom tap that will give you more threads---- use the tapered one first then the modified one. For me no more popping or squeaks!
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Old 09-08-2020, 10:28 PM   #24
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Tip ---- Buy 2 taps and grind one down about 1/4 " then you have a bottom tap that will give you more threads---- use the tapered one first then the modified one. For me no more popping or squeaks!
I used 1/4-28" threaded zerk fittings, much easier to drill the hole, easier to tap, I used a plug tap in a Tee handle.
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Old 09-08-2020, 10:51 PM   #25
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I used 1/4-28" threaded zerk fittings, much easier to drill the hole, easier to tap, I used a plug tap in a Tee handle.


Both great ideas. I used what I had in my toolbox.
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:44 AM   #26
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Sure. I will later this evening.
Can you find the part number for that sway bar bracket for me? Thanks!


I will try to find that part number.
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:48 AM   #27
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I used 1/4-28" threaded zerk fittings, much easier to drill the hole, easier to tap, I used a plug tap in a Tee handle.

That is my plan also. Smaller drill and tap.
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Old 09-09-2020, 11:58 AM   #28
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I will try to find that part number.
I'll jump in. >>> https://www.rvchassisparts.com:8443/...is/runApp?id=5
Part #: 702894-01
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