Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
Can you provide more details that lead up to final end result of control board?
What it was doing/not doing, how you troubleshooted, what pointed to circuit board etc
You know "the rest of the story"
More contexts so anyone reading post will have a clue that might help them with their Suburban 6 gallon water heater
OR Link to previous post about WH issues?
Sure thing. I was doing some preventive maintenance getting ready for a long trip next month, and checking the WH igniting at the outside panel realized it wasn't lighting off. At the inside panel the DSI would illuminate each time. The system stops after 3 attempts.
I did a little TS knowing the tanks had propane and were turned on. Ran the stove to ensure no air in the LP lines, and could actually smell the LP at the outside panel. I removed the tube and it was cleaned, and replaced the electrode for about $15. I didn't know if that would fix the problem, but an inexpensive part and possibly have a spare.
Although TS on Youtube and other forums seemed to point to an "On/Off" switch, valve, solenoid, etc., I noticed not much spark was coming from the electrode. The control module is not the easiest thing to get to, but after checking pretty much all other components I figured it was the CM.
(Probably should remove it first to see if any areas are scorched, I just felt by the process of elimination that was the problem and decided to buy one.)
Camping World here in the Panhandle of FL listed it for $90. Got the GS discount and paid $60+. Again, not a huge expense and fortunately when I did remove the existing CM, it was burnt at the Q3 resistor. That being said, I replaced the control module and I checked it before re-mounting it to the wall. Folks will have to find out what CM fits with their WH. Mine is listed below.
Listed as Module Board Service kit