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Old 09-18-2018, 06:47 AM   #43
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The minor leaks are not worth chasing.

You say its not the suspension, because it should leak sitting still.

That's not true, the ride height valves are working with every little change in the road surface.

Air it up and shut it off. Next get some big strong buddies to rock the MH. Have the weakest person monitor the air pressure and have everyone else listen for air leaks.

A bad ride height valve may be leaking while the control rod is working it up and down.
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:57 AM   #44
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This is the spray I used https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-65...detector+spray

Some have reported good results using the solution used for kids' bubble blowers. Some use a pump-up weed/lawn sprayer and just spray the entire undercarriage.

The hardest part is getting under the coach to spray. Spray everything then wait a while (an hour?). You may need to start engine to get pressure up during this. The higher the pressure, the quicker the leak will show.

On my coach the majority of leaks where from the push-on fittings. I had a bunch of little leaks. I would be nice to just have one big leak - fix it and be done. But more likely you have a lot of little leaks.

Those push-to-connect fittings are a pain. They are really hard to get apart (and the o-ring inside is not replaceable). I just cut the tube with a box cutter where it enters the fitting and used a new air brake compression fitting wherever I had a leak.
Thank you we will start heading this route.
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:00 AM   #45
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The minor leaks are not worth chasing.

You say its not the suspension, because it should leak sitting still.

That's not true, the ride height valves are working with every little change in the road surface.

Air it up and shut it off. Next get some big strong buddies to rock the MH. Have the weakest person monitor the air pressure and have everyone else listen for air leaks.

A bad ride height valve may be leaking while the control rod is working it up and down.
We did something similar to this yesterday. Aired it up then me and a buddy got it rocking pretty good. We did not listen for leaks but watched the gauges it had no effect. The amount this leaks when it does is significant you can watch the needles drop as in it takes about 2 to 3 seconds to drop enough to kick the compressor on so what ever it is when it does it, it is significant.
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:06 AM   #46
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I checked the gauges again this morning after letting it sit all day yesterday. The green did not drop one pound so whatever little leaks it had inherently are gone. The red dropped to 70lbs and seems to be holding there.

Our next move is going to be to figure out which needle runs what to try and eliminate half the systems.

I like the idea of adding the third tank gauge but really hate to add another failure point if we can help it.

At least with having it back I am able to better diagnose what it is doing when off and sitting. I believe we can eliminate it being anything that can leak while sitting at the very least. One thing done 14 million to go. These are some complicated units.
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:03 AM   #47
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I checked the gauges again this morning after letting it sit all day yesterday. The green did not drop one pound so whatever little leaks it had inherently are gone. The red dropped to 70 lbs and seems to be holding there.
So the problem may be with one of the auxiliary devices (air horn, step cover, etc.). As mentioned before there is aa air pressure protection valve installed on the tank that is there to stop air from leaking out the air tanks when a non-brake device leaks. These valves shut off when air pressure drops to 70 psi (or similar pressure). If you air drops to 70 and holds, that may be telling you the PP valve has closed. So the air leak is on the "other side" of the PP valve.

https://www.anythingtruck.com/catego...reprotect.html

In the air diagram below - you can see the pressure protection valve shown at the air horn. This is of course just a simplified drawing. You would (most likely) have more that one PPV. See the link above for what that valve looks like and then find it on your coach. You then could remove the air hose coming off of the PPV and cap it with a fitting (be sure to drain the air first). Then build up air pressure and if it now holds you will have pinpointed the area/item leaking.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:34 AM   #48
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So the problem may be with one of the auxiliary devices (air horn, step cover, etc.). As mentioned before there is aa air pressure protection valve installed on the tank that is there to stop air from leaking out the air tanks when a non-brake device leaks. These valves shut off when air pressure drops to 70 psi (or similar pressure). If you air drops to 70 and holds, that may be telling you the PP valve has closed. So the air leak is on the "other side" of the PP valve.

https://www.anythingtruck.com/catego...reprotect.html

In the air diagram below - you can see the pressure protection valve shown at the air horn. This is of course just a simplified drawing. You would (most likely) have more that one PPV. See the link above for what that valve looks like and then find it on your coach. You then could remove the air hose coming off of the PPV and cap it with a fitting (be sure to drain the air first). Then build up air pressure and if it now holds you will have pinpointed the area/item leaking.
You could have a ruptured pancake in your spring brake canister. Air your coach up, chock wheels, turn engine off, and release brakes. If you have a bad pancake, you should be able to hear the leak. Reason brakes must be released is air is applied to the springbrake when the brakes are released in order to release the spring in the emergency parking brake. If this is the problem, DO NOT attempt to repair this yourself, this spring is deadly if not properly removed.
Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2018, 12:59 PM   #49
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So the problem may be with one of the auxiliary devices (air horn, step cover, etc.). As mentioned before there is aa air pressure protection valve installed on the tank that is there to stop air from leaking out the air tanks when a non-brake device leaks. These valves shut off when air pressure drops to 70 psi (or similar pressure). If you air drops to 70 and holds, that may be telling you the PP valve has closed. So the air leak is on the "other side" of the PP valve.

https://www.anythingtruck.com/catego...reprotect.html

In the air diagram below - you can see the pressure protection valve shown at the air horn. This is of course just a simplified drawing. You would (most likely) have more that one PPV. See the link above for what that valve looks like and then find it on your coach. You then could remove the air hose coming off of the PPV and cap it with a fitting (be sure to drain the air first). Then build up air pressure and if it now holds you will have pinpointed the area/item leaking.
This is very helpful. Thank you
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Old 09-18-2018, 01:00 PM   #50
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You could have a ruptured pancake in your spring brake canister. Air your coach up, chock wheels, turn engine off, and release brakes. If you have a bad pancake, you should be able to hear the leak. Reason brakes must be released is air is applied to the springbrake when the brakes are released in order to release the spring in the emergency parking brake. If this is the problem, DO NOT attempt to repair this yourself, this spring is deadly if not properly removed.
Good luck.
I will try this. This is something I would definitely leave to a professional. I appreciate the advise.
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Old 09-25-2018, 07:50 AM   #51
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This issue is just so frustrating. It just makes no sense to keep throwing parts into it or keep paying crazy shop rates to find this issue. And I really wish I had more time to work on the coach myself but unfortunately I don't so I have to do more research than anything. With that said.

I was messing around with the air bags just bringing them up and down just to run it through it's paces. One thing I noticed is when I dump the air the rate the it dumps is just about identical to the speed in which the air drops when I am on the road. The mechanic swears he thoroughly checked the air bags and that the ride height valves are working as they should with no leaks. Whatever it is it is exactly the same as when air is dumped. But not continuous either it will dump, stop then air up again.

What keeps the valve from just continuously adding and dumping air with the way the roads are today? Seems inefficient.
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:48 AM   #52
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No sure this will help, but...On my last trip my air was going from purge (full) to governor engagement (low) in 48 seconds. It did this for an hour while on the road. I pulled into a rest area and engaged the parking brake. The air stopped leaking. Push the brake in and took off. The air held normally. Next day we took off and same as before. Full to low in about 48 seconds. This time I heard a faint “whine”. Jiggled the park brake knob and the tone of the whine changed slightly. As the air was still bouncing from purge to min, I stopped at a red light, pulled the parking brake and then released the brake. Air then acted as normal. So, My leak appears to be the brake switch.
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:16 AM   #53
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No sure this will help, but...On my last trip my air was going from purge (full) to governor engagement (low) in 48 seconds. It did this for an hour while on the road. I pulled into a rest area and engaged the parking brake. The air stopped leaking. Push the brake in and took off. The air held normally. Next day we took off and same as before. Full to low in about 48 seconds. This time I heard a faint “whine”. Jiggled the park brake knob and the tone of the whine changed slightly. As the air was still bouncing from purge to min, I stopped at a red light, pulled the parking brake and then released the brake. Air then acted as normal. So, My leak appears to be the brake switch.
Sounds very similar to what mine is doing. I will try the parking brake thing and see what happens. From memory the only time mine did not do this was when I left the first garage I had look at it. They cleaned the air dryer and checked a few small things and could not get it to replicate what it was doing but that was also with out a test drive. when I left it was a few miles down the road before it started doing it again. But I have used the E brake quite often since and do not recall it not doing shortly after use. Definitely something to keep an eye on. Thanks it all helps.
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