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Old 01-13-2020, 10:30 AM   #1
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1989 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 12V problem

Greetings everyone,
I need your help. I have a 1989 Fleetwood Pace Arrow.
There is no power to the ignition.
When I first bought it, there was no 12v power to the 2 lamps on the drivers side or the fan in the bathroom.
I had to jump it in order to get it to start.
The steps and vent fan above the table worked intermittently. Now they no longer work at all. The box below the microwave that controls the water heater, battery condition, etc no longer works either.
I have gone through all 3 locations where I have found fuses, and checked them all. They are all good.
I have replaced the 3 circuit breakers and the starter solenoid, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
My batteries are fully charged, and I have power to the solenoids.
The charging light on the converter comes on, and recharges the batteries.
When I unplug from the campground, I have no 12v power anywhere, but works while plugged in, minus the items listed above that do not work at all.
I am at a loss as to what to try next, any help appreciated.

Bert
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:25 AM   #2
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UPDATE:
So I figured out that my battery disconnect was off, and that was causing the steps and cabin vent fan to not work.
I still have no power to the ignition and the bathroom fan still doesn't work. Neither do the lamps along the driver side.
The control box below the microwave doesn't work either.

Back to square one. Any ideas?
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:49 AM   #3
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You said you have power to the solenoids but not beyond. Check switch (ignition) and wiring to solenoid. If ok then it's a bad solenoid. Same with all the other devices not working. Check for power at their switch. Also check the BCC battery control center fuses.
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Old 01-13-2020, 06:04 PM   #4
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I replaced the solenoid, so I know it isn't that.
It isn't just the ignition switch, I have no power to the dashboard at all.
I have checked all fuses. (3 locations) all are fine.

I have a multimeter, but how do you check for power at the switches with it?

Thanks for any help.


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Originally Posted by Reacher View Post
You said you have power to the solenoids but not beyond. Check switch (ignition) and wiring to solenoid. If ok then it's a bad solenoid. Same with all the other devices not working. Check for power at their switch. Also check the BCC battery control center fuses.
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Old 01-13-2020, 08:42 PM   #5
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If your checking a switch that only works with ignition on just pop the switch and check for power to one side with ignition on. If ign. does not have to be on check for power to the switch. Also there could be a bad ground or grounds, remove and clean all the grounds and re-connect. Intermittent usually means a bad ground. There's only a few miles of wiring and circuitry in a MH Happy hunting.
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:47 PM   #6
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There's two battery disconnect switches above and to the right of the door. One disconnects the house batteries, the other disconnects the chassis battery. Are you sure the chassis one is turned on?

If yes, use your multimeter to check for 12v on both sides of the chassis disconnect solenoid. If you have 12v on one side but not the other, check to see if the activation lead to the solenoid has 12v. If it does, the solenoid is bad. If it does not then the wiring from the switch, or the switch itself, is bad. Use a jumper to put 12v to the solenoid, and it should click and there should be 12v to the dash.

Then it's a case of tracking down the fault in the wiring.
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Old 01-18-2020, 08:15 AM   #7
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I checked the switches above the door, and they were indeed cut off. That fixed the door steps, but not my starter problem.
I did however finally figure out what the issue was. My Battery Disconnect Solenoid was bad. I figured it out by checking to see If power was on both sides of the solenoid. Only 1 side had power. After switching it out, the vehicle started right up. So one problem down. Unfortunately, like most things, solving one problem revealed another.

Now I have a power draw issue somewhere that I think is still linked to my bathroom fan, and 2 lamps not working along the driver side wall. It keeps draining my battery over night. Any tips on how to trace a grounded wire?

I also do not have any power, anywhere, when I am not plugged into the RV park outlet. I think this might be a converter issue. Any tips on how to check this? Also, if it is my converter, can someone recommend the proper current replacement, since the one I have is no longer available? I plan to add some solar panels eventually.


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There's two battery disconnect switches above and to the right of the door. One disconnects the house batteries, the other disconnects the chassis battery. Are you sure the chassis one is turned on?

If yes, use your multimeter to check for 12v on both sides of the chassis disconnect solenoid. If you have 12v on one side but not the other, check to see if the activation lead to the solenoid has 12v. If it does, the solenoid is bad. If it does not then the wiring from the switch, or the switch itself, is bad. Use a jumper to put 12v to the solenoid, and it should click and there should be 12v to the dash.

Then it's a case of tracking down the fault in the wiring.
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:38 AM   #8
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It depends on how many amps you need. You can get powermax 50-100 amp converters with smart chargers for a reasonable price on amazon. You may need to pull your unit and examine the tag or label to find out the output.
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:31 AM   #9
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If would seem to me if you have 12v when plugged in the the converter is working, that is it's function. It converts 120v ac to 12v DC. I would check your connections between the battery and control board, particularly the ground wire(s).
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BertNeff View Post
I also do not have any power, anywhere, when I am not plugged into the RV park outlet. I think this might be a converter issue. Any tips on how to check this? Also, if it is my converter, can someone recommend the proper current replacement, since the one I have is no longer available? I plan to add some solar panels eventually.
No power when *not* plugged in is not a converter issue. The converter turns the 110v from the shore power (or generator) into 12v to charge the batteries and give power for the 12v appliances, lights and 'cigarette lighter' style 12v outlets.

When you're not plugged in that 12v comes directly from the batteries, and the converter doesn't do anything at all. If you have 12v power when plugged in, but not when you're not plugged in, then the converter is working fine and somehow power is not getting from the batteries to the coach. Either a wiring issue or the batteries are flat.

EDIT....

You're not looking for *110v* power when not plugged in, are you? Your coach only has 110v power if it's plugged in to shore power or the generator is running. Providing 110v from the batteries would be the job of an *inverter*, not a converter, and your coach didn't come with one. (110v appliances will drain RV batteries very quickly)
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:18 AM   #11
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*Update*
I was indeed looking for 110v power unplugged. Noob mistake there. I do have 12v when unplugged, so that is working fine.
After figuring out how to trace 12v power in wires, I figured out that the power running to my driver side lamps and fans is working as intended. I just have 2 lights, and 2 fans that are not working. Probably an issue from the past. I need to replace those items. I am planning on upgrading to LED lights, so that should solve half of that issue.

Question: Does the floor heater work on 12v or 110v? I cant seem to find any literature on its workings, so I cant figure out why it isn't working.

Question 2: If I bought an inverter, where would I hook it up to run off my batteries until I can fix my generator and/or get my solar panels? (mainly for off grid driving eventually)

Thank you all for your help. I have learned quite a bit here, and am slowly getting my RV back into fully operational conditions.

Next steps, fix the leaky shower, upgrade my batteries, fix the heater, get the generator working, buy a solar power kit.


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Originally Posted by Rickinnocal View Post
No power when *not* plugged in is not a converter issue. The converter turns the 110v from the shore power (or generator) into 12v to charge the batteries and give power for the 12v appliances, lights and 'cigarette lighter' style 12v outlets.

When you're not plugged in that 12v comes directly from the batteries, and the converter doesn't do anything at all. If you have 12v power when plugged in, but not when you're not plugged in, then the converter is working fine and somehow power is not getting from the batteries to the coach. Either a wiring issue or the batteries are flat.

EDIT....

You're not looking for *110v* power when not plugged in, are you? Your coach only has 110v power if it's plugged in to shore power or the generator is running. Providing 110v from the batteries would be the job of an *inverter*, not a converter, and your coach didn't come with one. (110v appliances will drain RV batteries very quickly)
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:27 AM   #12
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By floor heat, do you mean actual heated floors? Those can be hydronic via AH or Oasis or electric 110-120V AC. If you mean LP gas furnace then that is 12V DC fan and controls.
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Old 01-23-2020, 12:09 AM   #13
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I have a switch on my wall for a heater, just like in a house. When I turn it on, nothing happens anywhere.


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By floor heat, do you mean actual heated floors? Those can be hydronic via AH or Oasis or electric 110-120V AC. If you mean LP gas furnace then that is 12V DC fan and controls.
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Old 01-24-2020, 06:37 AM   #14
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Could be for tank heaters like mine. The heat should be controlled by a thermostat.
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