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Old 07-17-2021, 11:31 PM   #1
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1994 Fleetwood bounder update CLUSTER REPLACEMENT.

So lets get up to speed with some photos,

This will save 20 minutes

Higher milage OEM 16167135 (1994)


lower milage pod OEM replacement from a (1992)



Now with all that done I noticed the new guage pod temp and oil pressure are sketchy.
..the temp guage spikes to 160f quickly and I know for sure via old school hand Checking the hose lines that 260f is inaccurate specially I can hold em without feeling im being burned even after 3 hours of idling.


As for the oil pressure sensor guage stays around 80 then flickers back to 40 psi once warmed up.

With the old guage 80psi was normal til warmed my concern is with the flicker.

I noticed if I hit the gas on the replacement it shoots to 80psi until I lay off then it drops back to 40psi.



Im thinking resistance in the cooling guage, as for the oil pressure guage looking to balance that out...

The pod at least works and that's the main concern.

Any leads on teaching these Obscelete guages I kept the old one for parts.
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Old 07-18-2021, 05:25 AM   #2
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The gages and senders are designed to be a system and need to be a matched pair for the system to work properly. Those change from year to year. There may be other modules involved as well.
Did you check if the flex circuits (the blue film in the back with traces) are the same? Then you could swap that and make your old one work. Looks like mice ate the old one. Since the clusters are not facing the same way, too much head twisting for me to try to figure out.

I would not trust anything what those gages from a different model year are showing. Suggest getting a new cluster to match the old one if the flex circuit replacement does not work.
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Old 07-18-2021, 05:47 AM   #3
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You could also try to swap the gages themselves.

Carefully pry off the pointer so you don't bend the shaft. They are interference fit but may have set tight over the years.
Then remove the faceplate and then you have access to the gage itself. There is probably a screw holding it down.

Then pull the magnetic gage out. It might be a bit tight as it is interference fit, 3 pins to the 3 clips on the back.
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Old 07-18-2021, 09:18 AM   #4
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On second (or 3rd) thought, if you can't find the correct MY cluster, the easiest thing would probably be to try swapping the gages from the old cluster. To replace the flex circuit, you'd have to take all the bulbs, gages and gage clips out anyway. Then re-calibrate all the gages.
Also, the fuel gage circuit has a resistor and that may be a different value for a different MY.

But to replace a gage, you'd have to pull all the pointers off first so you can get the applique (gage face) off.

And then how would you get all the pointers placed in the correct spot (calibrated) as now you also have to deal with the fuel gage pointer.
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Old 07-18-2021, 09:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowflyer1 View Post
The gages and senders are designed to be a system and need to be a matched pair for the system to work properly. Those change from year to year. There may be other modules involved as well.
Did you check if the flex circuits (the blue film in the back with traces) are the same? Then you could swap that and make your old one work. Looks like mice ate the old one. Since the clusters are not facing the same way, too much head twisting for me to try to figure out.

I would not trust anything what those gages from a different model year are showing. Suggest getting a new cluster to match the old one if the flex circuit replacement does not work.

They match and are verified, one is just the superseded model i looked and studied each detail there are no "NEW" CLUSTERS for this bounder as its DISCONTINUED.
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Old 07-18-2021, 09:30 AM   #6
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YOUR IDEA SOUNDS the best as I noticed when I got the new one in the needles seemed weaker on the oil and coolant then the orig and you could literally flick it and they'll stick in place vs the original which had some resistance in the needles and would slowly roll back.


(Shot magnetic poles in the pod?) On those two guages only.
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Old 07-18-2021, 10:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowflyer1 View Post
You could also try to swap the gages themselves.

Carefully pry off the pointer so you don't bend the shaft. They are interference fit but may have set tight over the years.
Then remove the faceplate and then you have access to the gage itself. There is probably a screw holding it down.

Then pull the magnetic gage out. It might be a bit tight as it is interference fit, 3 pins to the 3 clips on the back.
I think this may be a solution this is simular to what I have
So I would pull the old part apart and use the air cores out and swap them.

https://youtu.be/2q1OVWBed3U
.
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Old 07-19-2021, 05:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bounder90s View Post
YOUR IDEA SOUNDS the best as I noticed when I got the new one in the needles seemed weaker on the oil and coolant then the orig and you could literally flick it and they'll stick in place vs the original which had some resistance in the needles and would slowly roll back.


(Shot magnetic poles in the pod?) On those two guages only.

You could try to move the pointers side to side for a while to loosen them up. I don't think the gage motors themselves get weaker but could be dried up lube on the shafts or maybe interference somewhere.
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Old 07-23-2021, 09:20 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Lowflyer1 View Post
You could try to move the pointers side to side for a while to loosen them up. I don't think the gage motors themselves get weaker but could be dried up lube on the shafts or maybe interference somewhere.
UPDATE: So I did 3 hours work rolling the odo on the new/used part if I must say its like doing a "freaking rubix cube" anyway,
after I finished odo rolling I took the old gas guage/oil pressure/cooling guage side out and manually checked the temp and its not overheating at all.



So to some it up I re pinned it with the car running @ 205f being lowest full heated up to 215 tiny spike with 208 being the most consistent temp at idle.

Im thinking at most the only things left to tackle is the leaky exhaust manifolds which seal up once warmed up and some new V/C gaskets.


To some up without reading https://www.facebook.com/groups/RVForum/permalink/10159569316014430/
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Old 07-24-2021, 06:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bounder90s View Post
UPDATE: So I did 3 hours work rolling the odo on the new/used part if I must say its like doing a "freaking rubix cube" anyway,
after I finished odo rolling I took the old gas guage/oil pressure/cooling guage side out and manually checked the temp and its not overheating at all.



So to some it up I re pinned it with the car running @ 205f being lowest full heated up to 215 tiny spike with 208 being the most consistent temp at idle.

Im thinking at most the only things left to tackle is the leaky exhaust manifolds which seal up once warmed up and some new V/C gaskets.


To some up without reading https://www.facebook.com/groups/RVFo...9569316014430/

Great to hear. The trickiest part is to press the pointers back on straight and without disturbing the calibrations.
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