1994 Monaco with 6 sp. Allison do not shift light stays on

[deandec]

It could be, but I do not know.

It looks similar to my ignition solenoid, and mine was in the foward driver side basement chassis fuse box.

The ground as I recall was the little stud on the right side, but you should learn that by googling your specific solenoid number or tracing the wire.

Fortunately, my owners manual schematic helped me with the connections.

Since the chassis battery was replaced. Be sure the battery connectors are clean and tight. Also check the ground connection for the chassis battery.

A loose or corroded connector could cause similar symptoms.

[qdup]

Originally Posted by deandec

It could be, but I do not know.

It looks similar to my ignition solenoid, and mine was in the foward driver side basement chassis fuse box.

The ground as I recall was the little stud on the right side, but you should learn that by googling your specific solenoid number or tracing the wire.

Fortunately, my owners manual schematic helped me with the connections.

Since the chassis battery was replaced. Be sure the battery connectors are clean and tight. Also check the ground connection for the chassis battery.

A loose or corroded connector could cause similar symptoms.

I believe its the same. I am now trying to remove the ignition switch and not having any luck with that. I screwed the bezel front cover loose but nothing wants to come out. I was going to see if it was bad, but do not know how to check it to see if it is bad or not. As of now, the shift pad indicator has not blinked on and off at all, and some times the engine cranks but most of the time nothing. I have full voltage coming into the relay so it must be a ground issue or a bad ignition switch or maybe none of the above. Totally lost. Thanks for the help.

[qdup]

I just discovered that when I tried to start the engine from the rear engine bay remote start that nothing happened there either. No click, nothing. What would that tell you?

[deandec]

Originally Posted by qdup

I believe its the same. I am now trying to remove the ignition switch and not having any luck with that. I screwed the bezel front cover loose but nothing wants to come out. I was going to see if it was bad, but do not know how to check it to see if it is bad or not. As of now, the shift pad indicator has not blinked on and off at all, and some times the engine cranks but most of the time nothing. I have full voltage coming into the relay so it must be a ground issue or a bad ignition switch or maybe none of the above. Totally lost. Thanks for the help.

Did you try a new temporary ground connection from the solenoid to the chassis frame?

[qdup]

Originally Posted by Skip426

Most of the info I have is on newer Allison electronic controls ( WETC III)World Electronic Transmission Control system 3 .
I believe your coach has WETC II , but I'll add a file and photo, the file is how to get trouble codes out of the system the photo is of a WETC II control box , showing an internal 10 amp fuse that may or may not , be your problem.
As for your no crank , without repeated cycling of the key, several possibilities,
1, trans controller not giving proper " neutral sense " signal to the starter relay.
2, defective starter relay. I've replaced two in 5 years on my coach.
3, internal problems in the starter solenoid , on the starter , there are internal contacts that wear out from repeated starts.
Question . When you cycle the key do you hear any clicking , when the engine doesn't crank over.

Thank you for your help.

I hear a clicking sound in the relay. The one up front on the drivers side. Everything seems to be fine when I turn the key to the on position, all the dash lights light and the gauges function fine, except for the shift pad neutral display that blinks some then goes out. The more I cycle the on off ignition key the faster the display goes out, until there is never a display. This morning it just didn't want to crank unless with repeated tries. I took all the wires off the starter solenoid cleaned then and tightened them back on tight. Seemed to start better, but still the blinking display then no display.

[qdup]

Originally Posted by johnhicks

Contact this guy: Transmission Instruments

John, thanks for the info. After all is said and done, I finally figured out how to read the diagnostic codes I was getting. 69 and 32. Sounds like it needs to go to transmissioninstruments. Thanks again

[DAFF]

You have a ground issue. I bet the ground cable running from the battery to the block is corroded at the block. It will look perfect from the outside but under the treads of the bolt and underside will be filled with debris of corrosion.


This lack of ground is what is causing the grief in the trans and blinking lights. Controllers inside also have no grounds and the system goes into limp mode.

[qdup]

Originally Posted by DAFF

You have a ground issue. I bet the ground cable running from the battery to the block is corroded at the block. It will look perfect from the outside but under the treads of the bolt and underside will be filled with debris of corrosion.


This lack of ground is what is causing the grief in the trans and blinking lights. Controllers inside also have no grounds and the system goes into limp mode.

I cleaned and re cleaned the ground to the block and the block to the frame. Looks as good as no and no difference. From what I found out about a bad ECU is that when it is very warm inside the motor-home the display stays on longer then when it is cold. When it was around 40 degrees I had no read out on the pad, then later in the day the temps would reach say 75 or so and the read-out from the shift pad would lite stay on for up to almost a minute, then would start blink and finally the screen would go black. That seemed to tell me that the ECU was bad. Other MH owners with the same issues had a bad ECU. Plus the error code 6 9 3 2 tells the ECU is bad. The coach is 22 years old and most owners with my same set-up were having their ECU go bad at close to 20 years. Thanks for you in-put.

[Rsponsford]

I had a ground issue all right. One of my "boost" relay solenoids go bad and shorted out causing the same symptoms. Worth checking and easy to fix if that turns out to be the case.




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[DAFF]

ECU could be bad.... Have you tried to start the coach by jumping power to the starter relay or checked power when you rotate the key to start. A good voltage tester could be your best friend.

[sam60]

I had TI fix my shift pad and thought I thought I should have a couple of those Bosch relays in stock for the heck of it. Cant find them anywhere.

[qdup]

Originally Posted by DAFF

ECU could be bad.... Have you tried to start the coach by jumping power to the starter relay or checked power when you rotate the key to start. A good voltage tester could be your best friend.

Tried jumping the relay and it is good. Everything works fine when the key is turned to the on position, except for the ECU issues. It would start better when the temps warmed up in the coach, just like the pad readout worked better, at least it would display for about 10 to 30 seconds. The more I would turn the key to the on position the quicker the pad would blink then go black. When cold inside the coach the display would not lite up and the ignition wouldn't kick in to start. I thought that interesting. On other forums I searched where owners had this similar problem, they experienced the same issues when the coach was cold inside or warm. Someone said that he warmed his ECU up with a hair dryer and it would display and the engine would start. But after a time his ECU read out would start to blink and go black too. I talked to John at Transmission Instruments and he told me that is a sure sign of a bad ECU. I spent 3 days with the cleaning grounds and trying to jump the relay, etc. Not many hours spent on it, had to walk away after being frustrated to the point of giving up for a day. NAPA told me a relay was about $70 or so if I replaced my old one. To bad it is good.

[gofastnow]

You are describing exactly the problem I had some 6 years ago. The fix was rreplacing a capacitor in the ECU. It has worked flawlessly since the repair. There is a pdf article of the troubleshooting and repair on this sight, it was not difficult to perform, but I don't reccomend you do it yourself if your not confident with desoldering and soldering.

[qdup]

Originally Posted by gofastnow

You are describing exactly the problem I had some 6 years ago. The fix was rreplacing a capacitor in the ECU. It has worked flawlessly since the repair. There is a pdf article of the troubleshooting and repair on this sight, it was not difficult to perform, but I don't reccomend you do it yourself if your not confident with desoldering and soldering.

Here is an update to my posting about the Blinking ECU readouts, etc.
I sent the unit back to Transmission Instruments and the total turn around time was 6 days from the day I sent the unit back to the time it was back in my hands. It works as should should now with zero issues. Guess I could have saved money doing the fix myself and maybe not. Now I have the peace of mind that all is well again. The control pad by the way is a new one and the board was completely refurbished with new parts. John the owner said it should last longer then the motor home does. I will bet he is right. I now have every large cabled ground connector cleaned too, even though that was not the culprit, but it could have been a ground issue to begin with and I hoping it was. I had to eliminate all that before I had to spend the money to get the ECU refurbished. Thank you for all your help trouble shooting my problem.