Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-18-2011, 06:09 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Caroga Lake NY
Posts: 12
1997 winnebago brake fire

on a recent trip all my brakes over heated running on the NYS thruway
causing right front brake fire,my brake fluid boiled out of master cyl.
was towed to repair shop, where no problem was found.
any thoughts!!
noahron is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-18-2011, 07:04 AM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
If all your brakes heated up then you had a stuck master cyl. I had occasional stuck slave cyl on my old Bounder prob caused by overheating going over the Rockies causing gummy residue in slave cyl. Cleaned the slave and no more probs.
Justjohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 08:57 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
W4MBG's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 650
check the brake disks! on my first state inspection a few months ago the mechanic found that both front disks were cracked. in some places all the way through. i had him replace the disks, calipers, pads, and hoses. he also flushed the brake system. according to him, the oem ford calipers have a habit of sticking, thereby heating up the entire front end of the system. i did, in fact, recall an odd smell once, but it went away quickly. between the brake issue and replacing the ball joints it set me back 1700 bux! that hurts since i only paid 1300 for the rv. but it was done overnight, and to my satisfaction.

anyway, check the whole brake system.
__________________
1999 Winnebago Minnie 29', Ford V10, Close to stock.
W4MBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 12:13 PM   #4
Moderator Emeritus
 
Gary RVRoamer's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 28,484
If a brake hangs up (sticks on), it overheats and boils the brake fluid. When everything cools down, ot often breaks loose and everything is ok again. It may or may not happen again. Make sure the shop checked all the components carefully, whether disc or drum type brakes. Overheating can warp them.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is now West Palm Beach, FL
Gary RVRoamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 02:13 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kitts Hill, OH
Posts: 2,252
A 97 huh? well it could be that the master cylinder is hanging up from corrision inside. It may look perfect on the inside but be really bad on the inside. I'd first make sure that the brake lines are all a normal distaance away from any of the exh.
What can happen is if not a line can get hot and cause the fluid to expand and this build pressure just as if you are pressing on the pedal then this heats up the pad/shoes and it just keeps getting worse, and worse untile it does what it did on yours. Be especially careful around catilyic convers and back to muffer.

2 causes for this type of problem
1 hanging cylinders at master cylinder, wheel cylinder, or Caliper(s)
2 excessive heat from exh
__________________
(RVM#26) THE U-RV 94 F-700/24 foot U-haul box home built RV
Mekanic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 05:05 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Nick-B's Avatar
 
Forest River Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vaughn, WA
Posts: 1,460
Something tells me we are not getting the complete story here. Please bear with me here "noahron", I'm just confused and genuinely want to get a clearer picture.

You say ALL you brakes were overheated. How do you know it was ALL brakes and not just one?

Then you say that the Right Front caught fire. So we know there was a problem with at least the right front. BTW, we're all glad that the fire did not spread to the coach or you might not be posting here.

Finally you say that the repair shop didn't find any problems. HUH?!? I'm wondering if you need a better repair shop.

Some good suggestions have already been given but one common one that is easily missed is the collapsed brake hose (like the Right Front?). That would cause the brake to lock and not release and is not a visible problem.

If it were me, with the age of the chassis, I would replace ALL wear components.
  • Master Cylinder (new - not rebuilt)
  • Calipers with new guide pins
  • Brake Pads
  • Brake hoses
The rotors may or may not be OK to keep using. The Right Front is probably junk at this point.

Don't forget new wheel bearings for the Right Front since they are toasted now. Left Front is probably OK with a repack.

Best of luck!
__________________
Nick
1995 Coachmen Santara 360MB 36' w/slide.
Ford F53/460 chassis, 2020 Chev Equinox "toad"
Nick-B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 05:57 PM   #7
Registered User
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
Really Really glad you and yours are alright...

I would look at bad fluid.. Polyethylene glycol fluids like DOT3/4 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere. Water causes corrosion, reduces the boiling point, and freezes in the winter. They supposed to be flushed and replaced every two years.

And now that it has boiled, I would replace the Master Cylinder, rebuild the brake cylinders, replace all lines, have solvent bled through, and a good, hi-temp DOT 4 (or better, DOT 5.1) fluid put in...
Midniteoyl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 10:31 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cold Spring , Minnesota
Posts: 261
Does anyone else see problems with the above recommendations posted by Midniteoyl?
Dwight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 11:37 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
?? Dot 5.1 is NOT Dot 5 if thats what you mean..
Midniteoyl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 12:02 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
mfire1339's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Glendora Ca.
Posts: 1,610
No solvent with rubber components. for one.

Mike
__________________
2004 Monaco Monarch
Blueox, SMI, 1990 Wrangler YJ
mfire1339 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 01:29 AM   #11
Registered User
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
Oh..there is a cleaner/solvent that can be used for brake line cleaning... Though the lines are to be changed as recommended.

What else? If I'm being called out, let hear why.
Midniteoyl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 04:45 AM   #12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Caroga Lake NY
Posts: 12
doe's anybody think this could have been a ABS malfuction?
noahron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 02:29 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Nick-B's Avatar
 
Forest River Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vaughn, WA
Posts: 1,460
Quote:
Originally Posted by noahron View Post
doe's anybody think this could have been a ABS malfuction?
Looking back over the posts I don't see where we established which chassis you have. Ford or Chevy?
I'm pretty sure the Ford didn't get ABS until the '99 chassis year. Not sure about the Chev.
__________________
Nick
1995 Coachmen Santara 360MB 36' w/slide.
Ford F53/460 chassis, 2020 Chev Equinox "toad"
Nick-B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 06:15 PM   #14
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Caroga Lake NY
Posts: 12
Chevy p30 chassis
noahron is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brake, winnebago



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winnebago Industries Launches New Winnebago “ONE” Travel Trailer DriVer RV Industry Press 2 10-05-2011 11:04 PM
1997 Winnebago Vectra Air Cleaner Cover bkb Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 0 09-02-2010 05:40 PM
Ultrapower Grade Brake Project DriVer Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 51 08-04-2010 09:48 AM
1997 Ford F-53 Chassis under Winnabao Adventure - Brake Stoney51 Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 8 06-26-2008 08:44 AM
Working in a wild land fire camp John Harrelson Workkamping & Volunteering 5 11-21-2005 10:02 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.