May do better at a major truck repair shop. They should also have a mobile repair service.
Your main concern would be the air brakes. If your system loses pressure (below about 45psi) the yellow button on the dash will pop out and the rear brakes will be applied. However there is a routine test of the air brake system. If your system meets those requirements it should be safe to drive to repair.
1.Chock the wheels.
2. Start the engine and run until air pressure cutout is reached, the dryer will purge. (about 120 PSI).
3. Shut off the engine.
4. Release the parking brake by pushing in the yellow button, do NOT apply the service brake.
5. The air pressure will drop, then stabilize, after that the system should not lose more than 2 PSI per minute.
6. Apply the brake pedal firmly (still with the parking brake OFF).
7. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not lose any more than 3 PSI per minute.
8. With the engine off and parking brake off, rapidly pump (fan) the brake pedal to bleed down the air supply. During this stage you should watch for the warning light and buzzer at about 60 PSI and then the yellow button (parking brake) should pop out at about 30-45 PSI.
9. Restart the engine and build up air pressure. While building up pressure, check how long it takes for pressure to go from 85 to 100 PSI at about 1200 RPM. It should be less than 45 seconds.
10. Set parking brake, Remove chocks, put vehicle in gear against the parking brake, slightly increase rpm, it should not move.
FWIW this test should be done prior to each trip..
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Hooligan, Pensacola, Fl -U.S. Coast Guard 1956-1985
2016 Thor Siesta Sprinter 24ST diesel -1972 Moto Guzzi
2008 Suzuki Grand Vitara TOAD
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