2 30amps on pigtail for 50 amp Class A

[rarebear.nm]

Tom,

First, thanks for a clean solution to a common problem.


You may have already done this. When I use a wire nut in a mobil application, I always add a few wraps of electrical tape around the wire, up around the wire nut and back down around the wires again. This keeps the wire nut from coming loose from the shaking. I had this at least for others who may want to duplicate your solution.

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

Tom,



First, thanks for a clean solution to a common problem.





You may have already done this. When I use a wire nut in a mobil application, I always add a few wraps of electrical tape around the wire, up around the wire nut and back down around the wires again. This keeps the wire nut from coming loose from the shaking. I had this at least for others who may want to duplicate your solution.

Yes sir. All wrapped up with Super 33+.

[pobstlmo]

I have a question:
If you plug one 30 amp in and not the other 30 amp plug
Then touch your tongue on the 30 amp not plugged in
Do you Die?

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by pobstlmo

I have a question:
If you plug one 30 amp in and not the other 30 amp plug
Then touch your tongue on the 30 amp not plugged in
Do you Die?

Only if a poisonous snake is wrapped around the cord.

[John Jackson]

I did sort of the same thing in my RV with the rear air. I added a home made transfer switch to just that circuit using a separate 12 gauge cord fit with a 20 amp plug. When it's plugged in, the new transfer relay moves the air conditioner from the main RV panel to the 20 amp plug. It bypasses the circuit breaker in the RV panel and uses the 20 amp breaker in the park panel. When not plugged in, the plug on the added cord has no power on it no matter if using the gen or the main power plug connected to park power. Works great when we're at a CG that doesn't have 50 amp service.

[ghunnicu]

I always preferred 3M brand Scotchloks. They are designed with a spring inside that works similar to a lock washer. They are a little more difficult to remove than a wire nut type connector but are much more immune to loosening from vibration.
Last trip I took some interior lights quit working. Sure enough I found a loose 3-wire connection on the neutral at a wire nut. Replaced it with a red Scotchlok problem solved.
Tip of the day: When 120v stuff starts acting crazy...look for a neutral problem.

Mud
2011 Newmar Bay Star 2902

[AKIQPilot]

While we have a few sparkies paying attention to this thread..... I should post a couple more pics of what I did in the panel to make sure it looks acceptable and I didnt make any big mistakes.

The #2 AC is the 4th breaker up from the bottom.

I left the tip of the yellow wire nut exposed so if someone other than me opens the panel they will notice something isnt factory. I wrapped the connection up tight with 2 full wraps around the nut and wires.

I used a 3/4” romex connector and came in to the top of the panel.

I twisted the two new green ground wired together and landed them in the grounding bar under one screw.

I landed each new neutrals under their own individual screw on the neutral bar.

While the panel was powered down I put my screwdriver on every screw on each breaker, neutral bar and grounding bar to make sure everything was tight and to ensure I didnt loosen anything while I was in the panel messing around.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by ghunnicu

I always preferred 3M brand Scotchloks. They are designed with a spring inside that works similar to a lock washer. They are a little more difficult to remove than a wire nut type connector but are much more immune to loosening from vibration.
Last trip I took some interior lights quit working. Sure enough I found a loose 3-wire connection on the neutral at a wire nut. Replaced it with a red Scotchlok problem solved.
Tip of the day: When 120v stuff starts acting crazy...look for a neutral problem.

Mud
2011 Newmar Bay Star 2902

Do you mean the ones you squeeze with pliers ?

Are they approved for 120 volts ?

[rarebear.nm]

Twinboats, I think he used one like this from 3M. One other nice feature is one size works better for a wider range of wire sizes. I believe why the dual colors.

[THenne1713]

Originally Posted by AKIQPilot

While we have a few sparkies paying attention to this thread..... I should post a couple more pics of what I did in the panel to make sure it looks acceptable and I didnt make any big mistakes.

The #2 AC is the 4th breaker up from the bottom.

I left the tip of the yellow wire nut exposed so if someone other than me opens the panel they will notice something isnt factory. I wrapped the connection up tight with 2 full wraps around the nut and wires.

I used a 3/4” romex connector and came in to the top of the panel.

I twisted the two new green ground wired together and landed them in the grounding bar under one screw.

I landed each new neutrals under their own individual screw on the neutral bar.

While the panel was powered down I put my screwdriver on every screw on each breaker, neutral bar and grounding bar to make sure everything was tight and to ensure I didnt loosen anything while I was in the panel messing around.



Attachment 280908
Attachment 280909
Attachment 280910
Attachment 280911

My BEST PRACTICE final suggestion is "Did you PULL on each wire after tightening screws, crimping connectors and tightening Twist-On nuts? Despite best efforts, you can sometimes amaze yourself when you pull a wire loose that you wudda sworn was tight? My BIL tightened a tablesaw pulley every time he used his saw for the first three years, before he finally removed the pulley/ set-screw and found pulley was NOT fully drilled :-(