2000 National Tradewinds Fridge + Heating issues.

[Evugrandtour]

Hi RV pros. I just bought a 2000 national tradewinds diesel. It has heating issue after I drove it back (when tested on scene it worked and produce heat, didn’t test the fridge). And now the heater blows for like 2,3 minutes when turning on then I feel a thing like clicking then it turns off. And the fridge does not cool (fridge side gets warm). I check the flame and it’s lit so there must be no air flow issue right? All fuses are fine. However, when looking at the control board, I found 1 wire that was hanging loose but I’m not sure where that goes.

I appreciate any help!

[Skip426]

Could you add info on your fridge and furnace .

Manufacturer and model # .

Did you get any users manuals with the RV?
How long has the fridge been running ?
RV fridge on propane can take 48 hours to come down to temp.
When you were looking at the flame , did you notice any ; yellowish powder ; around the chimney?
The yellowish powder is an indication of a system leak and a fire hazard , if there is any powder; SHUT THE FRIDGE OFF!

Furnace could probably use a good cleaning and perhaps a high limit switch replacement .

[Skip426]

BTW: The picture you've posted is your coach's main power distribution panel , not a control board for the fridge or furnace .
The fridge control board , is mounted on the back of the fridge , and the furnace control board is inside the furnace housing .

Any users manuals you don't have , get the info off the appliance and look for the manuals at this site.

www.myrvworks.com/manuals/

[Skip426]

I have this info for National wiring ; dated 2002 , but it could be of some help , because the distribution panel looks the same .

[Old-Biscuit]

Your picture of Main Control circuit board has 2 open terminals
P4 (far left lower edge), P5 (to right of P4) & P7 (center lower edge)

According to wiring diagram posted by 'Skip426'
P4 is for 'Power Seats' GAS Model....10ga GREEN wire
P5 is for LP Solenoid ....14 ga RED wire
P7 is for Solar Panel .....14ga RED wire

Your P4 has a FUSE installed above it.....do you have Gas Model with non working power seats?

Your P5 does NOT have a FUSE installed above it...do you have a solenoid on LP system?
Your P7 does NOT have a FUSE installed above it...do you have Solar Panel for COACH Battery?


As for fridge/furnace see comments by Skip426
Post Brand/Models of fridge & furnace for specific info

Also please post details ....
Furnace Fan runs/stays running ...flame lights then goes out
Fridge...flame on but no cooling. Is freezer getting COLD?
Freezer has to get down to 10*F or lower for Food Compartment to cool down (freezer 1st in line of cooling process THEN food compartment can get cold.....12 hrs at least for temps to drop fully)

Brand/Models????

[Evugrandtour]

Originally Posted by Skip426

Could you add info on your fridge and furnace .

Manufacturer and model # .

Did you get any users manuals with the RV?
How long has the fridge been running ?
RV fridge on propane can take 48 hours to come down to temp.
When you were looking at the flame , did you notice any ; yellowish powder ; around the chimney?
The yellowish powder is an indication of a system leak and a fire hazard , if there is any powder; SHUT THE FRIDGE OFF!

Furnace could probably use a good cleaning and perhaps a high limit switch replacement .

I have dometic side by side fridge (it’s also written “new dimension” on it).
And I don’t see any yellow power on the back of the fridge.

[Evugrandtour]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Your picture of Main Control circuit board has 2 open terminals
P4 (far left lower edge), P5 (to right of P4) & P7 (center lower edge)

According to wiring diagram posted by 'Skip426'
P4 is for 'Power Seats' GAS Model....10ga GREEN wire
P5 is for LP Solenoid ....14 ga RED wire
P7 is for Solar Panel .....14ga RED wire

Your P4 has a FUSE installed above it.....do you have Gas Model with non working power seats?

Your P5 does NOT have a FUSE installed above it...do you have a solenoid on LP system?
Your P7 does NOT have a FUSE installed above it...do you have Solar Panel for COACH Battery?


As for fridge/furnace see comments by Skip426
Post Brand/Models of fridge & furnace for specific info

Also please post details ....
Furnace Fan runs/stays running ...flame lights then goes out
Fridge...flame on but no cooling. Is freezer getting COLD?
Freezer has to get down to 10*F or lower for Food Compartment to cool down (freezer 1st in line of cooling process THEN food compartment can get cold.....12 hrs at least for temps to drop fully)

Brand/Models????

Hi
I have dometic. Everything is running fine. I have solar panel and it’s charging battery fine.

There is flame on the back of the fridge. I left it on on gas for 12+ hrs and no cooling in freezer, fridge feels warm. The heater fan runs for 2 minutes then shut off.

[Gary RVRoamer]

The furnace fan runs until it reaches sufficient (safe) airflow and then the control board attempts to light the burner. If it fails to light, or lights but the flame sensor fails to detect it, the controller shuts down the furnace to insure there won't be a gas explosion. In other words, your furnace isn't lighting as it should. The most common reasons are poor air intake & exhaust, perhaps obstructed by insect nests or rust flakes. It doesn't take much at all because a gas furnace is extremely sensitive to the air/fuel ratio.


Based on your description, the furnace is toast. If the freezer doesn't get at least cool in 12 hours, the cooling unit isn't working at all. Maybe a pinhole leak has let all the ammonia-hydrogen mixture escape. Replacing the cooling unit isn't technically difficult, juts a bolt-on remove & replace job. Typically lots of labor to get fridge out to work on it, though.

[Old-Biscuit]

Dometic 'New Dimensions' would be a NDR1292 model
Installation/Operating Manual
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf


Couple tests for Fridge Operation:
*On lower circuit board...unplug the 'thermistor' leads at P2 connection (left side center 2 pin connector with 2 white leads)
Adjust temp setting to MAX (setting 5) and let fridge run for at least 12hrs

If freezer/food compartment cool down then thermistor is bad
Replace with Snip-The-Tip rheostat control
https://snip-the-tip.com/

If freezer/food does NOT cool down then you need to force cool fridge to see of cooling unit is functional

*That requires 120VAC Power.....
Unplug the Electric Element Leads from Lower Circuit Board at J7 & J8 terminals
2 Sets of wires wired parallel...White on J7 and Black on J8
Plug those leads DIRECTLY into the 120VAC Outlet (unplug fridge AC Power Cord)
Run fridge at least 12Hrs with the 2 elements energized continuously
This will Force Cool fridge IF---IF cooling unit is capable of functioning
*Direct bypasses all controls

If freezer/food get COLD...then cooling unit is working and circuit board is bad



Furnace.....
Brand/Model would be helpful
Fan Runs....purges combustion chamber and then Sail Switch closes allowing DC to circuit board for ignition
If Flame lights off but doesn't stay lit.....then flame sensing circuit is at fault
*Could be dirty electrode (emery cloth to clean soot/carbon off)
*Could be dirty/bad electrode wire connection
*Could be bad electrode...replace it
*Could be circuit board
*Could be dirty burner/orifice

Brand/Model???


Fridge and furnace issues COULD be
*Low LP system Pressure (how old is Main LP Reg?? IF OEM/2000 vintage ----Change it)
Low pressure will cause cooler flame temps so insufficient flame temperature to effectively boil enough ammonia solution into a vapor for fridge cooling process
Low pressure can cause flame sensing to fail in furnace

[Evugrandtour]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Dometic 'New Dimensions' would be a NDR1292 model
Installation/Operating Manual
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf


Couple tests for Fridge Operation:
*On lower circuit board...unplug the 'thermistor' leads at P2 connection (left side center 2 pin connector with 2 white leads)
Adjust temp setting to MAX (setting 5) and let fridge run for at least 12hrs

If freezer/food compartment cool down then thermistor is bad
Replace with Snip-The-Tip rheostat control
https://snip-the-tip.com/

If freezer/food does NOT cool down then you need to force cool fridge to see of cooling unit is functional

*That requires 120VAC Power.....
Unplug the Electric Element Leads from Lower Circuit Board at J7 & J8 terminals
2 Sets of wires wired parallel...White on J7 and Black on J8
Plug those leads DIRECTLY into the 120VAC Outlet (unplug fridge AC Power Cord)
Run fridge at least 12Hrs with the 2 elements energized continuously
This will Force Cool fridge IF---IF cooling unit is capable of functioning
*Direct bypasses all controls

If freezer/food get COLD...then cooling unit is working and circuit board is bad



Furnace.....
Brand/Model would be helpful
Fan Runs....purges combustion chamber and then Sail Switch closes allowing DC to circuit board for ignition
If Flame lights off but doesn't stay lit.....then flame sensing circuit is at fault
*Could be dirty electrode (emery cloth to clean soot/carbon off)
*Could be dirty/bad electrode wire connection
*Could be bad electrode...replace it
*Could be circuit board
*Could be dirty burner/orifice

Brand/Model???


Fridge and furnace issues COULD be
*Low LP system Pressure (how old is Main LP Reg?? IF OEM/2000 vintage ----Change it)
Low pressure will cause cooler flame temps so insufficient flame temperature to effectively boil enough ammonia solution into a vapor for fridge cooling process
Low pressure can cause flame sensing to fail in furnace

Thank you so much for your detailed post. I’ll look into it and will probably take me sometimes since it sounds pretty intense. Lol. Thanks again!

[Evugrandtour]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Dometic 'New Dimensions' would be a NDR1292 model
Installation/Operating Manual
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf


Couple tests for Fridge Operation:
*On lower circuit board...unplug the 'thermistor' leads at P2 connection (left side center 2 pin connector with 2 white leads)
Adjust temp setting to MAX (setting 5) and let fridge run for at least 12hrs

If freezer/food compartment cool down then thermistor is bad
Replace with Snip-The-Tip rheostat control
https://snip-the-tip.com/

If freezer/food does NOT cool down then you need to force cool fridge to see of cooling unit is functional

*That requires 120VAC Power.....
Unplug the Electric Element Leads from Lower Circuit Board at J7 & J8 terminals
2 Sets of wires wired parallel...White on J7 and Black on J8
Plug those leads DIRECTLY into the 120VAC Outlet (unplug fridge AC Power Cord)
Run fridge at least 12Hrs with the 2 elements energized continuously
This will Force Cool fridge IF---IF cooling unit is capable of functioning
*Direct bypasses all controls

If freezer/food get COLD...then cooling unit is working and circuit board is bad



Furnace.....
Brand/Model would be helpful
Fan Runs....purges combustion chamber and then Sail Switch closes allowing DC to circuit board for ignition
If Flame lights off but doesn't stay lit.....then flame sensing circuit is at fault
*Could be dirty electrode (emery cloth to clean soot/carbon off)
*Could be dirty/bad electrode wire connection
*Could be bad electrode...replace it
*Could be circuit board
*Could be dirty burner/orifice

Brand/Model???


Fridge and furnace issues COULD be
*Low LP system Pressure (how old is Main LP Reg?? IF OEM/2000 vintage ----Change it)
Low pressure will cause cooler flame temps so insufficient flame temperature to effectively boil enough ammonia solution into a vapor for fridge cooling process
Low pressure can cause flame sensing to fail in furnace

Ok so I have the dometic new dimension side by side fridge. I tried on AC power only and after a night the fridge feels super warm. When I tried it with propane same thing. I think my gas and the regulator is fine because the stove works fine... (maybe I’m wrong). But I think the cooling unit is no good.

[Roy1]

Yes that is correct you will need a new refrigerator or the complete pipe assembly will need to be replaced