Community Forums

rdhaliwal84 · 01-12-2021, 08:02 PM

Hi All, I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador Diesel Pusher that I purchased a few weeks ago. Still figuring everything out on this rig. When put into D I get a beeping noise for a few mins, which eventually goes away. Any tips?
I have narrowed down that
1) it is not the leveling jacks
2) not any of the fluids,

Any tips or advise would be appreciated.
Cheers!

Outbound · 01-12-2021, 08:33 PM

May be your air pressure gauge is not at travel ride height, or brake pressure.

Fffrank · 01-12-2021, 09:44 PM

Does indeed sound like the low air warning. Should be an idiot light on your dash lit until it gets over 90lbs.

theroc · 01-12-2021, 10:12 PM

The "low air" warning buzzer/chime should be sounding even before the transmission is put into "D" shouldn't it?

And welcome to forum, rdhaliwal84.

rdhaliwal84 · 01-12-2021, 10:38 PM

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately there is no indication light on the dash!

rdhaliwal84 · 01-12-2021, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theroc

The "low air" warning buzzer/chime should be sounding even before the transmission is put into "D" shouldn't it?

And welcome to forum, rdhaliwal84.

Thanks for the welcome! Yes it only goes off in D not in N. No dash light indication of what it could be either.

Lowflyer1 · 01-13-2021, 05:04 AM

I can't remember exactly the events but on my 2004 HR Imperial, I had a loud buzzer come and go as soon as I bought it and sometimes staying for 10-15 minutes from startup. I also had the ABS and ATC lights on.
I cleared the codes and the lights went out. And initially appeared that the buzzer went away also. An intermittent connection can set up the codes and turn the warning lights on.

Then the buzzer came back most of the time when I changed the shifter to D. So I also changed the park brake switch and conveniently that came with the coach. The previous owner had bought the switch as he had thought that may be the issue but had not installed it. The receipt was still in the box and I think it was less than $80.00.

There is just not a lot of room to change the switch. I carefully pried the panel up as high as I could using blocks to keep it up while feeding all the wiring up at the same time. These panels get brittle over time. I also had to remove the kick panel to gain access to the connections underneath. Then it was just one electrical connection and the air line. Just not much room to work with.

Since then I've put about 2000 miles and no more lights or buzzers.

Gary RVRoamer · 01-13-2021, 08:51 AM

It may have a warning for tv antenna up (or at least not fully stowed), jacks still down (maybe just a 1/4"), awning still slightly out, etc.

Do you have an owner manual that might explain such things? You can download one here:
https://www.holidayrambler.com/owner.../owner-manuals

Low air pressure would be a major annoying alarm, not a beep!

FL420 · 01-13-2021, 09:10 AM

I think Lowflyer1 nailed it. I occasionally have the same problem when I shift my 2005 Monaco Knight, a sister ship to your Ambassador, out of Neutral.
Search the forum posts for "Nason" switch or valve. It has been discussed here quite a bit.
[emoji40]

rdhaliwal84 · 01-13-2021, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowflyer1

I can't remember exactly the events but on my 2004 HR Imperial, I had a loud buzzer come and go as soon as I bought it and sometimes staying for 10-15 minutes from startup. I also had the ABS and ATC lights on.
I cleared the codes and the lights went out. And initially appeared that the buzzer went away also. An intermittent connection can set up the codes and turn the warning lights on.

Then the buzzer came back most of the time when I changed the shifter to D. So I also changed the park brake switch and conveniently that came with the coach. The previous owner had bought the switch as he had thought that may be the issue but had not installed it. The receipt was still in the box and I think it was less than $80.00.

There is just not a lot of room to change the switch. I carefully pried the panel up as high as I could using blocks to keep it up while feeding all the wiring up at the same time. These panels get brittle over time. I also had to remove the kick panel to gain access to the connections underneath. Then it was just one electrical connection and the air line. Just not much room to work with.

Since then I've put about 2000 miles and no more lights or buzzers.

Thank you for this tip!! I will definitely look into this.