2021 Dutchstar batteries dead

[Tacobird]

House and Chassis batteries all died, took chassis batteries and had them fully charged at a parts store. Replaced the fully charged chassis batteries in Rv and now the engine starts and the generator starts but the house batteries are not charging. The EMS is not showing any information. The Power Monitor for ATS states - loss of communication. The Magnum Energy Panel shows 2.6V. 0A. Any suggestions on how to move forward or why the house batteries are not charging. Thanks, Steve

[Jim_HiTek]

Check your dash for a BATT switch or two. Many manufacturers have a way to shut down most but not all of the battery draw when sitting. Some RVs put them over the door on the end of a cabinet. On my dash it's called the 'AUX Battery' switch. I think finding that switch and switching it to the ON position may solve your house batts not charging when the engine is running...but that may not be a cure all. Another cause could be the Convert switches are turned off. Find your converter, and check them...if it has them. If not, test that device.

RV manufacturers of course make those obviously needed devices often called 'Salesman's Switches' optional or just leave them out and for many decades a way to completely disconnect both sets of batteries is one of those things. Another is a way to keep the Chassis (Starting) batteries charged while parked and on shore power. Often there isn't any component to do that. Since your rig is brand new, and the batts are dying, I'd say it's likely you have that issue. Thing to do is buy and install a 2.5 amp float charger (if there's a handy 120Vac outlet nearby you can plug it into...obviously you'd need to be on shore power), and attach it to the Chassis batts. Or buy a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start which borrows some charging juice from the house batts, again need to be on shore power.

Finally, even with that AUX battery or two AUX battery switches, there are still likely going to be vampire loads on your batteries when parked...radio memory, ECU memory, TCU memory, safety circuits, steps, etc.. A brand new battery set of a typical RV will last 5-11 days without shore power or being started and run. (There is one RV brand of RV where they actually paid the money for big relays so the dash switches would do the job, most don't).

Solar power could do the job but you'd need like 100-200 watts up there...the optional panels that come with most RVs are only 8-10 watts. Worthless.

If you want to store the RV after the batteries are topped off this time, just remove the ground wires. Weeks later, they'll be fine. And use your Aux Start switch to help start the engine...or jump it. I have stored my Class A's for up to 8 months in Fairbanks Alaska with the batts disconnected and just plugging into AC in the spring overnight was all that was needed.

[thegats1]

Speaking from what I understand about my coach/inverter. Others will chime in I am sure. My chassis batteries are charged from a separate battery maintainer that is completely independent of my inverter. It is similar to any maintainer you can buy at Auto Zone. So, it is a pretty basic charger. When I have AC either from my generator or shore power, it charges. Of course the batteries charge when the engine is running.

For the house batteries, if they are discharged too low, I understand there is a Low Battery Cutout triggered by the inverter once it senses the low voltage and it will not charge the batteries until it reaches the Low Battery Cut In voltage. I believe the only way to get the batteries to the Low Battery Cut In voltage is to use an external charger. This is how I understand it. I'll keep tabs on this thread to learn from more knowledgeable people on this forum.

[Jim_HiTek]

Originally Posted by thegats1

Snip

For the house batteries, if they are discharged too low, I understand there is a Low Battery Cutout triggered by the inverter once it senses the low voltage and it will not charge the batteries until it reaches the Low Battery Cut In voltage. I believe the only way to get the batteries to the Low Battery Cut In voltage is to use an external charger. This is how I understand it. I'll keep tabs on this thread to learn from more knowledgeable people on this forum.

It's the 'Converter' that uses 120 Vac to charge the batteries and keep them charged while on shore power. An 'Inverter' changes 12 Vdc into 120 Vac to operate your TV or other low draw systems.

What you might have read is that 'Low Battery Cutout' occurs when the Inverter senses that the battery voltage has dropped too low to adequately invert the battery voltage so it shuts down. That prevents ruining the batteries by discharging them to a low voltage point below 10.8 volts.

A Converter has a similar system where if the batteries have a short or are damaged, it shuts itself off so as to prevent outgassing explosive gases from the battery. But not all do that. Mine is a '02 and recently one of the chassis batteries had gone bad and it was hot and bulging but the converter was still trying to charge it.

There are such things as Converter/Inverters though. One of each device built into the same box. Those will still have the same functions.

[Iceclimber]

Hi Steve
You didn't mention if you are plugged into shore power - are you ?
Did the house batteries get tested when out ? 2.6v sound dead.
Recommend you try a regular battery charger on the house batteries while you sort this. Also consider finding a battery service place and driving in for some help. If those batteries are bad they will happily replace them and also help sort any problems.

[thegats1]

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

It's the 'Converter' that uses 120 Vac to charge the batteries and keep them charged while on shore power. An 'Inverter' changes 12 Vdc into 120 Vac to operate your TV or other low draw systems.

What you might have read is that 'Low Battery Cutout' occurs when the Inverter senses that the battery voltage has dropped too low to adequately invert the battery voltage so it shuts down. That prevents ruining the batteries by discharging them to a low voltage point below 10.8 volts.

A Converter has a similar system where if the batteries have a short or are damaged, it shuts itself off so as to prevent outgassing explosive gases from the battery. But not all do that. Mine is a '02 and recently one of the chassis batteries had gone bad and it was hot and bulging but the converter was still trying to charge it.

There are such things as Converter/Inverters though. One of each device built into the same box. Those will still have the same functions.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I appreciate it. I found the thread where this is discussed (below). The thread lines up with my Magnum manual pretty well but the manual could be written clearer and state "this inverter/charger will not charge your batteries if voltage drops below X volts".
The hang up for me is the word inverter is used throughout the manual to describe the entire unit. But, Magnum then occasionally sprinkles in the word converter when describing the charge side function. If I were writing it, I would use the word "unit" when discussing the device because using the word inverter leads me to the inverter function. From my post, it may have sounded like I was completely clueless on batteries and charging. Having served on a fast attack sub as a nuke electrician, I reluctantly became very intimate with the batteries and their operation (potential lifesaving function). Lost a lot of cotton t-shirts while hopping gravities in the battery bay and trashed several uniforms cleaning the DC side of our DC/AC motor generators used for charging (darn brushes).....anyway I digress. My only disconnect was the expected operation of my MS2012 charger function at LBCO. Seems others have confirmed it will not invert or charge after LBCO is reached until voltage reaches the LBCI. I may just call Magnum to satisfy my curiosity. Anyway, thanks again for your help.

See here where I believe the word Inverter is referring to the entire unit


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/hou...d-522103.html*

[Iceclimber]

Curious how the OP made out.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by Tacobird

House and Chassis batteries all died, took chassis batteries and had them fully charged at a parts store. Replaced the fully charged chassis batteries in Rv and now the engine starts and the generator starts but the house batteries are not charging. The EMS is not showing any information. The Power Monitor for ATS states - loss of communication. The Magnum Energy Panel shows 2.6V. 0A. Any suggestions on how to move forward or why the house batteries are not charging. Thanks, Steve

What did Newmar say when you called them?

[Tacobird]

Thank you for your advice and suggestions. I purchased a battery charger and it took less than 12 hours to fully charge the 8 house batteries. Everything is now working as usual. Thanks again!

[Iceclimber]

Yet another "simple first" success. Good deal OP.

[thegats1]

Originally Posted by Tacobird

Thank you for your advice and suggestions. I purchased a battery charger and it took less than 12 hours to fully charge the 8 house batteries. Everything is now working as usual. Thanks again!

OK great. Sounds like it may be confirmation of what I posted above (and others on other threads). If batteries drop below LBCO, they must be charged from another source to the LBCI voltage before the inverter will take over again. Glad you got it solved.