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03-06-2017, 10:01 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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30 Amp Inline Surge Protector install advice please
I have a 1994 Fleetwood Bounder 34J and was looking at installing a Sure guard inline in my RV. The only place I can install is on the far left of the utility cabinet. Should I install it upside down or sideways. Not much room for everything in there and trying to maximize space. Any ideas?
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03-07-2017, 05:25 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Appalachian Campers Mid Atlantic Campers Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,622
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Progressive is typically thought to be the better choice, also carries a lifetime warranty. Protects low and high voltages, as well as open neutrals/grounds or reversed polarities.
There's not a ruler reference so hard to know from the picture how big that space is. Move that existing box up, take the yellow cord and enter into the bottom of that box. Those white wires should have protection going into that box, that sharp metal can cut thru the insulation of those wires. Need a grommet.
__________________
DaveB, Raleigh, NC
2015 Tiffin RED 33AA, w/Honda CRV
VMSpc, Magnum BMK/ARC50
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03-07-2017, 05:54 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiawah
Progressive is typically thought to be the better choice, also carries a lifetime warranty. Protects low and high voltages, as well as open neutrals/grounds or reversed polarities.
There's not ruler reference so hard to know from the picture how big that space is. Move that existing box up, take the yellow cord and enter into the bottom of that box. Those white wires should have protection going into that box, that sharp metal can cut thru the insulation of those wires. Need a grommet.
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I was thinking about grommets myself. That switch is for my electric water heater conversion kit called hot rodd. This RV only came with a gas water heater. Thanks for the insight on progressive.
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03-07-2017, 05:59 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,731
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What is the other cable and switch coming out of the Transfer Switch?
__________________
Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
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03-07-2017, 06:04 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperGewl
What is the other cable and switch coming out of the Transfer Switch?
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Good morning. If you are talking about the switch in the front, it is for a water heater conversion kit.
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03-07-2017, 07:19 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,731
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OK, just wondering what it was for.
__________________
Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
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03-07-2017, 08:48 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperGewl
OK, just wondering what it was for.
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It's OK. I wish I had an electric/gas water heater but it didn't come with one. I installed the switch as a neutral connection and the only hot wire is going to the led. The old switch that was there looked like it was made in the 70's lol.
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03-07-2017, 10:27 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Fortuna Foothills, AZ
Posts: 189
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The first thing you need to do is install a fuse box to protect the smaller wires you have connected to the 30a circuit. Is that an extension cord that's coming out of the junction box? Also, to answer a previous question the box is 4" square and 2 1/8" deep.
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03-07-2017, 10:44 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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I know it a weird setup and it scares me. The original owner did a lot of rigging from the hot rod water heater conversion and the duct taped wires in that box. That's why I was going to take that metal box out and wire a surge protector directly through the main harness. The fuse is certainly a great idea and maybe a reset type switch for 15 amps perhaps. I think the hot rod conversion is 10 amps.
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03-07-2017, 10:58 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Huntingtown, MD
Posts: 834
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That looks like that's a junction box thats silver, I removed my junction box and installed my progressive 50amp in the same spot as the old junction box
__________________
Earl & Sharon, 2008 Fleetwood Expedition, ISB 6.7
1995 Jeep YJ/2013 Chevy Sonic
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03-07-2017, 10:59 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
It's OK. I wish I had an electric/gas water heater but it didn't come with one. I installed the switch as a neutral connection and the only hot wire is going to the led. The old switch that was there looked like it was made in the 70's lol.
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I've installed two of the Hott Rod conversions and I remember them being 120 volt. Is that switch even rated for 120 Volt use? Looks like the standard 12 V ones used in a dash.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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03-07-2017, 11:05 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,796
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Why not use the cord end version?
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03-07-2017, 04:17 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayward3411
That looks like that's a junction box thats silver, I removed my junction box and installed my progressive 50amp in the same spot as the old junction box
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I was looking at progressive and seen the price. Wow I almost fell out of my chair. I was thinking of the same thing. What's weird is line and load. I would think the power cord would be on the bottom and the RV connection would be on the top. Except it's the opposite way around. I'm trying to prevent installing it upside down. I'm a little nuts when things don't look right lol.
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03-07-2017, 04:35 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,441
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You never switch the neutral wire.
Switching the hot cuts all power off after the switch. There will be no power in the wires to the device or back.
Switching neutral leaves power to the device and back to the switch. If that wire touch's ground, before the heater, it will burn back to the source.
Cut that stuff out, tap off a breaker in the panel and add a switch in a handy box and switch the black hot wire.
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