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04-24-2011, 07:12 PM
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#29
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Registered User
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randco
If BOTH legs are from a properly wired 50 amp split phase system and you tie both legs together you won't even get 120 VAC. You will get a short circuit and hopefully a tripped breaker.
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Correct, and thats what I meant.. "If you CAN tie both legs together"... If you can, then the 240vac is not wired correctly anyways, and they are pulling from the same 120vac leg..
Apparently, some campgrounds are wired this way, while others use real 240vac...
I was typing from my phone
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04-24-2011, 07:15 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
Wrong... The proper hook up is this
Thirty --- Fifty
Ground --- Ground
Neutral --- Neutral
Hot -- L1 AND L2 (both hot leads)
Yes, the Original poster has a defective and should return for exchange.
Now, when you go from 50-30 Then the adapter maker picks EITHER L-1 or L-2 (matters not which) different adapters may use different hots on the 50 amps side.
I just re-wired a 50 amp outlet,, To confirm I had it right, I used a 30-50 adapter I happened to have handy... The hot lead on the plug (hot pin?) connected to both Hot socket terminals.. I verified that about 5 ways before we plugged in.. Then one more after, then we send power on to the coach. Oh, So you know, I'm an electronics techinican with some electrical expierence, He's a master electrician.
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Ahh.. I see what your saying now...
You DID lose one side of your 240vac from the 50 amp recepticle... Your feeding one leg to two... or the same 120vac to both sides...
Anyways.. Did your receptacle have a separate leg on each side, or did you wire the same leg to both?
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04-25-2011, 09:01 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnoldjf9191
Thanks everyone for your responses. Just like I concluded. My 30 to 50 amp adapter was wire wrong for our application. I contacted the distrubutor and they said it's the manufacture's problem. Went to the manufacture and they said to contact the distrubutor. So I just ordered a new plug and I'll wire it myself. The old adapter is a solid molded type. Thanks again everyone.
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Depending on how much you paid for that adapter.. The uniform Commercical code says the seller (Store you bought it from) is repsonsible for the warranty.. MOST states have implemented some for m of this code. On the warranty card it often says "you may have other rights which vary from state to state" You need to know those rights.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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10-13-2011, 09:05 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
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FYI (i know this is an old thread, but it was my first hit trying to answer my question) so i figured i'd add this:
50 Amp Female to 30 Amp Male Adapter - $10.62
quote: "If RV is wired normally it prevents the use of the 20 amp side of RV panel." Thus, I don't think the manufacturer(s) of some of these cables sees this as a defect at all. They seem to be doing it intentionally.
I'm fearful to buy the one on ebay or elsewhere because of this without being able to ohm it myself... If anyone knows for sure of a dogbone that does join L1/L2 (but preferably not the powergrip as i've been in panels where the door wouldn't shut with that depth), i'd appreciate it if you could let me know the link...
thx
-brad
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10-13-2011, 03:54 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: San Jose, Ca, USA
Posts: 2,693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shenandoah75
FYI (i know this is an old thread, but it was my first hit trying to answer my question) so i figured i'd add this:
50 Amp Female to 30 Amp Male Adapter - $10.62
quote: "If RV is wired normally it prevents the use of the 20 amp side of RV panel." Thus, I don't think the manufacturer(s) of some of these cables sees this as a defect at all. They seem to be doing it intentionally.
I'm fearful to buy the one on ebay or elsewhere because of this without being able to ohm it myself... If anyone knows for sure of a dogbone that does join L1/L2 (but preferably not the powergrip as i've been in panels where the door wouldn't shut with that depth), i'd appreciate it if you could let me know the link...
thx
-brad
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That looks like the one I've been using for years now - although I have no idea what they mean when they say "If RV is wired normally it prevents the use of the 20 amp side of RV panel."
When we plug into 30A with our adapter all 120V outlets in our rig work and all 120V appliances work. I don''t recall the 120V circuit breaker panel having a "20 amp side" - looking at it, it looks a lot like the panel in our house. There's the 50A main breaker that's tied to both hot lines, then two rows of smaller breakers - each tied to either L1 or L2 - both of which are 50A legs. Where is this 20A side supposed to be?
__________________
Alan Hepburn - San Jose, Ca
2007 Bounder 35E being pushed by a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Sport S or a 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JLU) Sport S
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10-13-2011, 05:07 PM
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#34
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Registered User
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
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20amp side of the 'pedestal' is what they mean..
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