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01-07-2019, 11:56 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 464
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Dryer is usually a 30 amp 125/250v (NEMA 14-30R) L shaped neutral.
Range is usually a 50 amp 125/250v (NEMA 14-50R) straight neutral.
RV 30 amp is a TT-30R 120v 30 amp
None of them will accept a different designation without using a hammer.
Older style house wiring may have 3 wire versions of the dryer and range where the neutral and ground are shared at the appliance. New installations are 4 wire devices.
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2000 Winnebago Adventurer
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01-07-2019, 12:08 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,018
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For just a few dollars more I strongly suggest that you put in a 50a/30a/20a box
Just be sure to use a licensed electrician and remind him/her that it is for an RV usage..
When we have guests, they get the S's & B's and we stay in the shack.. (also does "man cave " duties on "THOSE" occasions....
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
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01-07-2019, 12:14 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,849
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The materials cost to install a 50 amp outlet will be about 3 times the cost of a 30 amp, however either way if paying an electrician the labor rate will be similar for each, and labor will be the majority of the bill.
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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01-07-2019, 12:47 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,018
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3 times? WOW!.. ours only had the extra costs for the heavier gauge wiring and the extra 50a breaker, the box, conduit and labor were the same..
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
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01-07-2019, 12:51 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Foley, AL
Posts: 1,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesore
For just a few dollars more I strongly suggest that you put in a 50a/30a/20a box
Just be sure to use a licensed electrician and remind him/her that it is for an RV usage..
When we have guests, they get the S's & B's and we stay in the shack.. (also does "man cave " duties on "THOSE" occasions....
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The best idea here so far. Just do them all and be done with it. Use it for the MH and ODAA (Other Duties As Assigned). If you can afford a MH, don’t pinch the pennies. (I always say this with other people’s money. [emoji23])
__________________
Les & Pam Warden
(Tiffin) 2017 Phaeton 40QBH; 2023 Wayfarer 25RW (coming soon)
2016 Jeep JKUS with Ready Brute Elite towbar
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01-07-2019, 02:02 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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The OP can get away with a 120 volt, 30 amp, RV outlet and a 30 to 50 amp dogbone adaptor.
That is all that is needed to run 1 AC, a battery charging device, and the fridge. Its done in RV parks all of the time.
That will take a run of 10-2 gauge, with ground, romex, a single 30 amp breaker and 120 volt 30 amp outlet and weatherproof box.
Now its escalated to a 100 amp service, RV park type, muli outlet power box, full of breakers. That will require 3-6 gauge, with ground, romex, a double pole breaker and a multi outlet box with breaker panel.
Remember, the OP was concerned about the cost of electricity. Installation may be a cost concern also.
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01-07-2019, 02:04 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesore
3 times? WOW!.. ours only had the extra costs for the heavier gauge wiring and the extra 50a breaker, the box, conduit and labor were the same..
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It is at least over 2x, and this does add up with distance for wire cost, using Lowes for pricing, for at typical 50 amp outlet you will likely use UF 6/3 with ground at $3.76 per foot For 30 amp using 10/2 UF with ground the cost is $1.64 per foot. Outlets, breakers, conduit, boxes, etc. are also similarly higher for 50 amp.
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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01-07-2019, 02:09 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 2,594
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FWIW, we have an out-building (used to be a business) on our property with its own electric meter. We installed a 30-amp plug on it for the RV when we got it and leave it plugged in virtually all the time we're home to keep the refrigerator running. I can't see that the electric bill has gone up any at all. I suppose it has, but it's such a small amount it's not noticeable.
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2021 Keystone Outback 221UMD
2018 Tundra Limited 5.7 liter
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01-07-2019, 02:24 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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I DIY installed a 30a circuit years ago for our first RV, which was 30a. I did run wires for 50a to make it easy to upgrade if desired.
Now have had a 50a RV for several years. I've had no urge to upgrade to 50a.
That said. Since you are having it done by an electrician, I suggest to get the price for both. The bunk of the cost may be in labor, making it not that much more money to install the 50a.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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01-07-2019, 02:36 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 2,689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
The OP can get away with a 120 volt, 30 amp, RV outlet and a 30 to 50 amp dogbone adaptor. ...
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That's what I did, but rather than use a 30amp to 50amp adapter I just installed a regular 50amp outlet with both legs tied together internally (just like the dogbone would do). I also put a prominent ' 30A single phase' label on it (even though I'm the only one ever using it).
__________________
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD
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01-07-2019, 02:38 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,010
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Confusion can occur when an electrician unfamiliar with RVs, wires a 120V 30A RV outlet as if it were a three wire 240V outlet. But a NEMA 14-50 is a NEMA 14-50. Two hots, a neutral and a ground.
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01-07-2019, 03:02 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Muskoka Ontario Canada
Posts: 3,142
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Confusion can occur when one person says, "its not like a stove plug", then the next one says, "yes it is". One person says " its like a 50 amp dryer", then the next one says, "dryers are 30 amp. Wow, people who know nothing about electricity really shouldnt put their two cents in. No offence. For what it is worth, my previous coach was only 30 amp, 110 of course, lol. My new to me coach is 50 amp, but I have no desire to change it. The 30 amp is enough to run everything except both A/C units. This is more than enough for sitting in my yard in Ontario. If I lived where it gets 120 degrees outside, I would be upgrading to the 50 amp quick.
__________________
2000 coachmen santara 370 5.9 cummins isb
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01-07-2019, 03:14 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 285
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I'm looking to install power at my RV carport sometime next year. I'm pretty sure I'm going with 30amp. It will save a few hundred dollars. I've got guest rooms in the house and with it being under cover, the need for both A/C's should never happen.
We are guilty of wasteful overkill in many areas, and I'm going to start limiting that. For the one time in five years that I "might" have a use for 50amp, I'll just suck it up.
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01-07-2019, 03:17 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbeierl
That's what I did, but rather than use a 30amp to 50amp adapter I just installed a regular 50amp outlet with both legs tied together internally (just like the dogbone would do). I also put a prominent '30A single phase' label on it (even though I'm the only one ever using it).
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Sure that works, but if I had a 50 amp RV, I would be carrying a dogbone adaptor anyway.
It will get you thru the night if the CG 50 amp outlet is busted up.
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