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Old 01-07-2019, 11:56 AM   #15
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Dryer is usually a 30 amp 125/250v (NEMA 14-30R) L shaped neutral.
Range is usually a 50 amp 125/250v (NEMA 14-50R) straight neutral.
RV 30 amp is a TT-30R 120v 30 amp
None of them will accept a different designation without using a hammer.
Older style house wiring may have 3 wire versions of the dryer and range where the neutral and ground are shared at the appliance. New installations are 4 wire devices.
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:08 PM   #16
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For just a few dollars more I strongly suggest that you put in a 50a/30a/20a box
Just be sure to use a licensed electrician and remind him/her that it is for an RV usage..


When we have guests, they get the S's & B's and we stay in the shack.. (also does "man cave " duties on "THOSE" occasions....
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:14 PM   #17
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The materials cost to install a 50 amp outlet will be about 3 times the cost of a 30 amp, however either way if paying an electrician the labor rate will be similar for each, and labor will be the majority of the bill.
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:47 PM   #18
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3 times? WOW!.. ours only had the extra costs for the heavier gauge wiring and the extra 50a breaker, the box, conduit and labor were the same..
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
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For just a few dollars more I strongly suggest that you put in a 50a/30a/20a box
Just be sure to use a licensed electrician and remind him/her that it is for an RV usage..


When we have guests, they get the S's & B's and we stay in the shack.. (also does "man cave " duties on "THOSE" occasions....


The best idea here so far. Just do them all and be done with it. Use it for the MH and ODAA (Other Duties As Assigned). If you can afford a MH, don’t pinch the pennies. (I always say this with other people’s money. [emoji23])
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:02 PM   #20
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The OP can get away with a 120 volt, 30 amp, RV outlet and a 30 to 50 amp dogbone adaptor.

That is all that is needed to run 1 AC, a battery charging device, and the fridge. Its done in RV parks all of the time.

That will take a run of 10-2 gauge, with ground, romex, a single 30 amp breaker and 120 volt 30 amp outlet and weatherproof box.


Now its escalated to a 100 amp service, RV park type, muli outlet power box, full of breakers. That will require 3-6 gauge, with ground, romex, a double pole breaker and a multi outlet box with breaker panel.

Remember, the OP was concerned about the cost of electricity. Installation may be a cost concern also.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:04 PM   #21
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3 times? WOW!.. ours only had the extra costs for the heavier gauge wiring and the extra 50a breaker, the box, conduit and labor were the same..
It is at least over 2x, and this does add up with distance for wire cost, using Lowes for pricing, for at typical 50 amp outlet you will likely use UF 6/3 with ground at $3.76 per foot For 30 amp using 10/2 UF with ground the cost is $1.64 per foot. Outlets, breakers, conduit, boxes, etc. are also similarly higher for 50 amp.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:09 PM   #22
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FWIW, we have an out-building (used to be a business) on our property with its own electric meter. We installed a 30-amp plug on it for the RV when we got it and leave it plugged in virtually all the time we're home to keep the refrigerator running. I can't see that the electric bill has gone up any at all. I suppose it has, but it's such a small amount it's not noticeable.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:24 PM   #23
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I DIY installed a 30a circuit years ago for our first RV, which was 30a. I did run wires for 50a to make it easy to upgrade if desired.

Now have had a 50a RV for several years. I've had no urge to upgrade to 50a.

That said. Since you are having it done by an electrician, I suggest to get the price for both. The bunk of the cost may be in labor, making it not that much more money to install the 50a.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:36 PM   #24
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The OP can get away with a 120 volt, 30 amp, RV outlet and a 30 to 50 amp dogbone adaptor. ...

That's what I did, but rather than use a 30amp to 50amp adapter I just installed a regular 50amp outlet with both legs tied together internally (just like the dogbone would do). I also put a prominent '30A single phase' label on it (even though I'm the only one ever using it).
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:38 PM   #25
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Confusion can occur when an electrician unfamiliar with RVs, wires a 120V 30A RV outlet as if it were a three wire 240V outlet. But a NEMA 14-50 is a NEMA 14-50. Two hots, a neutral and a ground.
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:02 PM   #26
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Confusion can occur when one person says, "its not like a stove plug", then the next one says, "yes it is". One person says " its like a 50 amp dryer", then the next one says, "dryers are 30 amp. Wow, people who know nothing about electricity really shouldnt put their two cents in. No offence. For what it is worth, my previous coach was only 30 amp, 110 of course, lol. My new to me coach is 50 amp, but I have no desire to change it. The 30 amp is enough to run everything except both A/C units. This is more than enough for sitting in my yard in Ontario. If I lived where it gets 120 degrees outside, I would be upgrading to the 50 amp quick.
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:14 PM   #27
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I'm looking to install power at my RV carport sometime next year. I'm pretty sure I'm going with 30amp. It will save a few hundred dollars. I've got guest rooms in the house and with it being under cover, the need for both A/C's should never happen.

We are guilty of wasteful overkill in many areas, and I'm going to start limiting that. For the one time in five years that I "might" have a use for 50amp, I'll just suck it up.
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:17 PM   #28
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That's what I did, but rather than use a 30amp to 50amp adapter I just installed a regular 50amp outlet with both legs tied together internally (just like the dogbone would do). I also put a prominent '30A single phase' label on it (even though I'm the only one ever using it).
Sure that works, but if I had a 50 amp RV, I would be carrying a dogbone adaptor anyway.
It will get you thru the night if the CG 50 amp outlet is busted up.
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