50 amp MH, 30 amp service

[ChileRick]

Planning our summer trips and are running into a problem with some RV parks on our route that only have 30 amp service. We have a 50 amp MH. Since we travel with a dog, we need to keep utilities on. Do we have to pass on these CGs? Is there a way to manage with just 30 amps?

[Playtime III]

If you can keep the coach comfortable running only one Air Conditioner at a time then you should be fine.

[LindaH]

Our fifth wheel is 50-amps, but we often stay at a 30-amp site if the RV park charges extra for 50 amps. Unless you want to run all of your electrical appliances at the same time, there's no reason you can't survive on 30 amps. If you have two A/C units, you won't be able to run both of them at the same time, but other than that, you shouldn't have a problem. Just get an adapter for your electrical cord that steps down from 50-amps to 30-amps.

[docj]

Another suggestion, if your hot water tank is dual fuel, propane and electric, shut off the electric heater.

[HD4Mark]

Our EMS system will shut down things as needed when there is not enough power. For example the electric water heater would be shut down before the a/c. I would assume yours works the same. You can also get a Cheater Box They will not work if the 20A connection is a GFCI (ground fault interrupter) but some parks will change out the outlet if you ask. If you are handy you can make your own cheater box like we did.

[rream]

By all means no - your power monitoring system will take care of you we have stayed at many 30 AMP sites

[CLIFFTALL]

You may be able to run both ac's on 30 amp. I can. My 11,000 and 13,500 run on about 9-10 amps each. When we run on genny the EMS shows 23 and that includes the fridge. The ac's of today are more efficient then in previous years.

Cliff

[GaryKD]

Hi ChileRick,
The answer to your question is coach specific. Some coaches will work well on 30 AMPS and some will not. It depends on the efficiency of the appliances installed in your coach. If it was me, I'd contact the CG and ensure they do not have a 50 AMP site. If they do not, I'd pass on the CG.

As to using the cheater box, it works only if each side is drawing from a different circuit. The 30 AMP CGs I've been to all outlets on the site pedestal are drawing power from the same circuit. Yes, I do have a cheater box and got permission from the CG manager before using it. 1/2 of the load was off my pedestal and the other 1/2 of the load was from the vacant site in back of me.

If you put all appliances on propane there should not be a problem, when the dog is in the coach and you are sightseeing. However, when humans are in the coach, that is a different story. Microwave ovens, hair dryers, toasters, cooking appliances, etc. take power. This is why I pass on 30 AMP CGs.

Remember 50 AMP service means there is 100 AMPS available to the coach. 30 AMP service means 30 AMPS available to the coach. That's is a big difference.

For me, I do not need more things to think about and compromise on. I RV to enjoy myself.

[MegaRoadie]

50/30/20... even 15 amp will work in today's latest RV MH's... so long as the OPERATOR has a good understanding of what is happening and what common sense limits apply to their specific hookups.

DW and I often have utilized campgrounds that were "Gems" but passed-over by the 50amp demanders and found that we did just fine without "all the modern indulgences" so many today feel is their "right"... but that's us and not for everyone.

Dogbones, cheaters, adapters all have their place but few things can compare to knowing what works and what limits apply. Know your RV, know your limitations, talk to people who have been there/done that... you can learn a lot !

I do not suffer from mental illness, but rather enjoy it daily !

[Clay L]

You absolutely can run both ACs at one time on 30 amps.

Winnebago uses a Intellitec EMS (energy management system) that will allow you to use two ACs at once, It will delay one for a few seconds so they both can't start at exactly the same time. After the initial current surge drops it will then allow the second one to start.
In addition if you use a high current drain appliance - like the microwave - with both ACs running it will first turn the rear AC compressor off then the fan. If the current drain is still too high it will then turn the refrigerator off. After the current drain decreases enough it will allow the items that were shed to restart.

[CLIFFTALL]

Allow me to remind everyone that " Be Nice " is one of our most important rules.

Thanks
Cliff

[powerboatr]

the key phrase is "energy management"
30 amps will be used up real quick
many already stated
run the water heater on lp, and the fridge. that saves 10-15 on the water heater and to 5- 9 amps on the fridge

if your in an area that is HOT, then one a/c may not keep you cool, its simply a personal choice on your desired comfort.

with proper energy management you can be ok.
1st you need to know what each appliance uses in amps.
2nd check park power, make sure its at least 115, lower voltages cause appliances to use more amps to make up for the loss in voltage
3rd. with the knowledge on each appliance you can safely balance the loads so you can use the micro or even the convection oven.
I would caution that running the dogbone adapter at near its max load of 30 amps will in short order cause extreme heat and softening. This will also accelerate the rate of decay on the plugs. and HEAT causes amps to be lost because they are used at the heated dogbone connection

we have used 30 amps ok in many places, it just takes a knowledge of energy usage and demand.
i will say again , a 30 amp pedestal is only 30 amps total, not two legs of 30 amps.
and a 50 amp is two legs of 50 amps, for a total of 100, if the pedestal is wired correctly
AND most parks circuit breakers have issues running at near the max amp load and will trip long before you reach 30 amps or the 100 in the case of the 50 amp side
you can quickly run out of amps or cause brown outs in your rv

[ChileRick]

Originally Posted by Clay L

You absolutely can run both ACs at one time on 30 amps.

Winnebago uses a Intellitec EMS (energy management system) that will allow you to use two ACs at once, It will delay one for a few seconds so they both can't start at exactly the same time. After the initial current surge drops it will then allow the second one to start.
In addition if you use a high current drain appliance - like the microwave - with both ACs running it will first turn the rear AC compressor off then the fan. If the current drain is still too high it will then turn the refrigerator off. After the current drain decreases enough it will allow the items that were shed to restart.

Thank you so much, this exactly the info we were looking for. It will help us determine when/if being limited to 30 amp service is appropriate to meet our needs.

Our apologies to the forum, it was not our intention to create a lifestyle debate.

[wa8yxm]

There are rules for power use, A 50 amp rig with adapter(s) can plug into a 50 amp outlet, 30 or even 20 amp.

20 amp I limit usually to just the power converter and perhaps one air conditioner or space heater (And then only after batteries charged) run everything else off inverter or generator depending on load (TV's inverter, Microvave 1-2 minutes inverter, Microwave cooking dinner Generator)

ONE BIG TICKET ITEM on a 20 amp load
Big ticket items are Air Conditioners and space heaters, Water heater, Microwave and if the batteries are hungry enough and your converter big enough (mine is) the converter.

Fridge at 300-400 watts is a medium

30 amps you can usually run TWO big items. but NOT two air conditioners.. So Fridge, Electronics (TV/Radio) one AC and microwave or water heater. And if the batteries are low when you plug in you might want to wait an hour or two before using Microwave or water heater.

50 is all you can eat.

IF you have an Energy Management Sytem, It will limit you to 30 amps automatically (one hopes) when on 30.

If not.. I did a "Break out" on one of my air conditioners,,, Basically I ran 12ga wire to a handy disconnect point, and put an outlet on that wire, I ran 12ga wire with a plug back to the breaker box and b ehind the breaker box put a Junction box.

The "outbound" wire is connected to what was originally the A/C breaker, the inbound, via the Junction box, is connected to the line to the A/C. In many campsites this lets me run the Rear A/C on it's own cord, compltly independent from the rest of the house.