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Old 03-19-2017, 10:15 AM   #29
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Your pictures show 2, 6V Batteries (3 caps) and 1, 12V (6 caps underneath 2 covers). Your charger is recognizing the 2, 6V batteries connected in series as 1, 12V battery(which is correct).
You do not have anything 24V in your RV.
Did you mean you disconnected the cables from one 6V battery when you attached the charger? In that case it should have detected 6 volts, but if you left one cable attached, that could have fooled the charger into detecting a 12V battery.
All I did was disconnect the ground from the second battery. That probably explains what happened. When I checked with the hydrometer everything was right below the green and above the blue. I checked everything with a load meter and everything was good. My conclusion is the charger is bad. I am thinking that the big black box is the charger in my previous picture because that is the one that sounds likes a bunch of bees humming around.
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:06 AM   #30
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So as to be a bit less confusing, I will lay out my thoughts on your issue. Seems to be that your batteries are ok seeing as they accepted a charge (although not fully charged yet) from your smart charger and withstood a load test. They are not however charging from your converter/charger. I would replace your converter/charger with a new three stage unit and that should take care of your issues. I would use the smart charger you have to fully charge each battery independently first and then after installing your new unit, keep the rig plugged in at all times and you will be ready to roll anytime you get the bug! If you want to be really ready and want to spend a few bucks, get two new batteries as well and have piece of mind that all will be well. If your chassis battery is still good, you don't have to replace it at the same time, it will not drag down new coach batteries.
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:27 PM   #31
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If your converter/ inverter provides an equalization cycle, this would desulfste your batts also. May take two or three times initially depending on batt condition but then should become part of battery maintenance on a monthly or every other month schedule.
Hi and thank you for responding. I was always told that equalization would require a different wiring setup. Having a 1994 Bounder, would that still be a possible solution?
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:29 PM   #32
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Thank you for the update. True I did get a little confused LOL. I know when it comes to wiring and electrical I am not afraid but when jumping into wiring I don't know where one goes to another, I am very cautious.
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:44 PM   #33
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Replace your Magnatek converter/charger with a good 4-stage converter/ charger

PD9200 Series RV Power Converters
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:11 PM   #34
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Replace your Magnatek converter/charger with a good 4-stage converter/ charger

PD9200 Series RV Power Converters
I was looking at that one too. I was thinking about progressive but the price was way out of budget. I found a DLS 45. That was $129. Maybe as little later I'll go progressive.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:28 PM   #35
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Replace your Magnatek converter/charger with a good 4-stage converter/ charger

PD9200 Series RV Power Converters
Actually what is really cool, I looked at the dls45 and it says 4 stage with an Ethernet plug by the fan. I checked the voltage on both 6's and it is registering 13.8 and my chassis battery at 12.4. Fan didn't turn on but being a little chilly probably it will kick in later. What's weird, there is no place to put the copper ground wire on the dls45.
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Old 03-24-2017, 04:49 PM   #36
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Better read your installation manual. I see a lug for the safety ground in the photo.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:14 PM   #37
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Better read your installation manual. I see a lug for the safety ground in the photo.
Yeah I found it. I was so stupid I was thinking that was something else. I actually posted it on YouTube.
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