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Lucasteam · 04-09-2021, 12:35 PM

We have a 2000 Country Coach Allure. Driving home from FL to MI the Cummins 8.3 L just quit in northern GA
We are at a truck repair and the computer says there is no electric between the ignition switch and ECM. The electrician says he has checked solenoid, grounds, fuses, and ignition switch. No luck.
The fuel filters are good and the computer software is not showing any issues with the fuel system.

We have searched through these forums and checked out many of the suggestions.

Looking for a golden nugget. Appreciate any ideas. Thanks!

wolfe10 · 04-09-2021, 12:39 PM

OK, let's start from the ignition switch.

Does the Allison shift pad illuminate? Other things that only work with ignition on such as dash HVAC fan? If so, the IGNITION SOLENOID is good.

So you can move "further" toward the engine.

Assume you have done basic check at the batteries-- all connections clean and tight. Check ground from chassis batteries as well.

Lucasteam · 04-10-2021, 06:46 AM

Further checking, there is power going to the ECM, and power from the key, but the computer was showing that it had no power from the key and no direct power. Suspect bad ECM.

Difficult to get the part quickly...2 weeks out. One company said 9 months out. Aargh

So, emptied the Motorhome into a u-haul trailer and headed home.

Thanks for your quick response.

wolfe10 · 04-10-2021, 06:59 AM

Have they/you checked that 12 VDC IS actually getting to the ECM?

And, that the ECM has a good ground?

Lucasteam · 04-12-2021, 06:05 PM

Yes.

It has now taken its next tow to Cummins in Chattanooga. We will know more soon.

Thanks again!

153stars · 04-12-2021, 07:30 PM

Two things come to mind, one question already asked are you getting all dash gauges and/or trans keypad. Several times an issue was 10 ga wire with inline fuse to chassis battery. Bad connection at fuse within 24" of bat, battery connection, corroded wire at battery loop.
Second an issue brought up before at rear start controls if equipped or added. I'm pretty sure there will be normally closed contacts there that connects/tied to front. At least on owner just flipped the switch a few times to get going again ,they are not in best environment.
Testing mysterious missing 12v always a good idea to double check with old school incandescent test light. A multimeter with high impedance will show 12v when it wont actually light a tiny light bulb.

BluewaveRV · 04-13-2021, 12:38 AM

After near 11 months in Flying Wrench's shop & $10,325 to bail it out, with a new long block engine, that leaks oil. We need to get 500 miles on it before we could toe our dingy. We were 8 miles out of Long Beach WA. on the flat the 8.3l ATC6 QUIT & I coasted to a wide spot to get off HWY 101. I was unable to isolate the trouble & called for a traveling truck mechanic who isolated it to the injection pump for $300. I had AAA toe it to the Cummins dealer in Sumner WA.. They replaced a ?relief valve? part with no luck but charged me for it. Then they took off the injection pump & sent it to H & H in Fife WA. where many parts were worn & a spring looking like a valve spring in the head of a car was broken in 3 places that started from small rust spots. Expensive Lesson: Cummins put it back on my new long leaky block & It was running again.
I LEARNED that Cummins does NOT repair the accessories that make their engines run so H&H (who I should have had it toed to) charged $1929 for the rebuild to Cummins who charged me $5,728. THUS if you get a tech to isolate the trouble, take it to a shop that does that work.
I am an A&P mechanic worked on light aircraft & I have NEVER seen this type of failure to a spring before. I just cann't do the heavy lifting anymore & am wishing I did not sell my 1956 Cessna 172 that I flew for 34 years to transition into an Land Yacht for our final years.
New name for our RV="Money-Pit"...... My Cessna was cheaper to maintain.

Fiesta48 · 04-13-2021, 03:07 AM

Sell it and get a gasser. Or buy your Cessna back. Stories like this makes me glad a I bought new. Is this what I'm going to experience in 15 years, oh yah, I won't make it that far.

Lucasteam · 04-16-2021, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BluewaveRV

After near 11 months in Flying Wrench's shop & $10,325 to bail it out, with a new long block engine, that leaks oil. We need to get 500 miles on it before we could toe our dingy. We were 8 miles out of Long Beach WA. on the flat the 8.3l ATC6 QUIT & I coasted to a wide spot to get off HWY 101. I was unable to isolate the trouble & called for a traveling truck mechanic who isolated it to the injection pump for $300. I had AAA toe it to the Cummins dealer in Sumner WA.. They replaced a ?relief valve? part with no luck but charged me for it. Then they took off the injection pump & sent it to H & H in Fife WA. where many parts were worn & a spring looking like a valve spring in the head of a car was broken in 3 places that started from small rust spots. Expensive Lesson: Cummins put it back on my new long leaky block & It was running again.
I LEARNED that Cummins does NOT repair the accessories that make their engines run so H&H (who I should have had it toed to) charged $1929 for the rebuild to Cummins who charged me $5,728. THUS if you get a tech to isolate the trouble, take it to a shop that does that work.
I am an A&P mechanic worked on light aircraft & I have NEVER seen this type of failure to a spring before. I just cann't do the heavy lifting anymore & am wishing I did not sell my 1956 Cessna 172 that I flew for 34 years to transition into an Land Yacht for our final years.
New name for our RV="Money-Pit"...... My Cessna was cheaper to maintain.

We own a V36 Bonanza, and I tend to agree right now it’s cheaper than a land yacht, but a new engine is $50k+.

jacwjames · 04-16-2021, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BluewaveRV

I LEARNED that Cummins does NOT repair the accessories that make their engines run so H&H (who I should have had it toed to) charged $1929 for the rebuild to Cummins who charged me $5,728. THUS if you get a tech to isolate the trouble, take it to a shop that does that work.

I was lucky in that I knew the Cummins shop manager and he allowed me some leeway when I had to have my radiator replaced. He told me that they usually will not install any parts provided by a customer and even worse, they add a 50% surcharge to parts they install.

So I was able to find a new radiator substantially cheaper then the next best one. Initially Cummins ordered it but I had them cancel the order and I purchased and had it shipped to Cummins. Also, since the CAC was out I went took it for cleaning but it had to be rebuilt with a new core. Between these two items I saved ~$3-4K by dealing with them myself.

But I will also add that the Cummins shop worked with my insurance adjuster and supported my claim stating the radiator was damaged by road debris and it was covered for repair less my deductable. I had numerous calls over a 3 week period with the shop foremen who dealt with insurance adjuster over a 3 week period. They had to move my rig in and out of the shop several times while this was going on. Probably wouldn't have happened if I didn't know the manager so it pays to have friends in the "right" places.