Community Forums

Oundy · 09-19-2018, 04:57 PM

Hello all,
I have a 2013 bounder 35k with 2 Dometic roof top ducted air. They are much more noisier than my brothers newmar units. My last option is to replace them. Does anyone have any ideas that may prevent me from replacing them? How can I reduce the noise factor? At night I turn off second zone but leave first zone on.
Thanks,
Sleepless in Pennsylvania

jaykris · 09-19-2018, 05:21 PM

They are like tornados! I am going to get rid of a 9 month old Coachmen because of them.

**Lt Dan** · 09-19-2018, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oundy

Hello all,
I have a 2013 bounder 35k with 2 Dometic roof top ducted air. They are much more noisier than my brothers newmar units. My last option is to replace them. Does anyone have any ideas that may prevent me from replacing them? How can I reduce the noise factor? At night I turn off second zone but leave first zone on.
Thanks,Sleepless in Pennsylvania

Are your Bounder A/C units fully ducted like the Newmar or do you have a square intake grill? If you have the intake grill then you will never get it as quiet as a fully ducted unit.

bruceisla · 09-19-2018, 05:35 PM

I think you will find it is a result of the Newmar ductwork. Count the number of cool air outlets and note they are NOT directly under a rooftop unit.

Oundy · 09-20-2018, 06:03 AM

I figured as much. I’ll be looking to get them replaced but need to investigate that first. Thanks

CountryB · 09-20-2018, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oundy

Hello all,
I have a 2013 bounder 35k with 2 Dometic roof top ducted air. They are much more noisier than my brothers newmar units.

What model does the Newmar use?
Wil that model fit your Bounder?

Oundy · 09-20-2018, 06:11 AM

Thanks for your response. I thought as much. I guess ear plugs will be in order. I wish I could find a company that could fix the issue. If u know of any let me know.
Thank

chunker · 09-20-2018, 06:12 AM

If the motorhome need to be replaced look for an older one with basement residential type air-conditioning. My Itasca has that, is relatively quiet, very efficient, and reliable heat pump. Usually found on higher end class A DP.

Oundy · 09-20-2018, 06:13 AM

It’s more to do with ducts than the unit itself. Newmar ducts their returns which makes a huge difference. For that matter alone I wished I had bought a Newmar product.

YC1 · 09-20-2018, 06:24 AM

Build a simple box to cover the inlet area. Of course it needs inlet air but make one side open away from your normal seating/living area. Redirecting that sound will reduce the noise by half.

If you have the type of register that has a slide to allow the air to drop directly into the rv and not use the ceiling vents I recommend taking the plastic covering off completely and then cover that air return path completely. While you are doing this be sure to go inside that duct work area and clean up the air path with metal duct tape or eternabond for example.

Once that source of noise is improved then you need to improve the air entry from the ceiling vents.

Take one out and see if it extends into the duct work area further than needed. Mine were inside probably an inch more than needed. Trimming them has allowed the air to flow probably 20% better.

The AC in the bedroom was a real challenge but facing the air intake towards a close wall works best.

If someone is good at tuning mufflers they may be able to really create a better solution. The noise is the intake mostly.

bruceisla · 09-20-2018, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CountryB

What model does the Newmar use?
Wil that model fit your Bounder?

Newmar uses off-the-shelf standard Dometic units. It's the mounting and ducting (within the coach) that makes it quieter. Depending on coach length, Newmar has approximately 20 vents (10 inlet and 10 outlet). Additionally, the topside units are mounted (bolted) from the top and are located over an insulated area of the ceiling.

MoCoTom · 09-20-2018, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Build a simple box to cover the inlet area. Of course it needs inlet air but make one side open away from your normal seating/living area. Redirecting that sound will reduce the noise by half.

If you have the type of register that has a slide to allow the air to drop directly into the rv and not use the ceiling vents I recommend taking the plastic covering off completely and then cover that air return path completely. While you are doing this be sure to go inside that duct work area and clean up the air path with metal duct tape or eternabond for example.

Once that source of noise is improved then you need to improve the air entry from the ceiling vents.

Take one out and see if it extends into the duct work area further than needed. Mine were inside probably an inch more than needed. Trimming them has allowed the air to flow probably 20% better.

The AC in the bedroom was a real challenge but facing the air intake towards a close wall works best.

If someone is good at tuning mufflers they may be able to really create a better solution. The noise is the intake mostly.

I made a cover like described above for over that central air intake (outlets are ducted) and it made a very noticeable difference. Now no need to turn tv up when a/c comes on

WDW · 09-21-2018, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoCoTom

I made a cover like described above for over that central air intake (outlets are ducted) and it made a very noticeable difference. Now no need to turn tv up when a/c comes on

Any chance of you posting a picture? I’m a visual guy.

Crankshaft · 09-21-2018, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oundy

Thanks for your response. I thought as much. I guess ear plugs will be in order. I wish I could find a company that could fix the issue. If u know of any let me know.
Thank

It's a lot of work to do but you may want to look into a mini split system. Check YouTube, several people have gone from the roof AC's to a mini split system. Very quiet and much more efficient.