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Shallow · 03-24-2020, 03:55 PM

Hello folks,

Starting to de-winterize the RV in prep for the warmer seasons. Turning everything on and checking functions this week.

This morning I turned on the AC. Unfortunately, the temperature is not decreasing in the RV. Temps inside remain identical to outside ambient temps.

The control panel indicates both front and rear AC are powered and selected to cool. There is are coming from the overhead vents. The air is neither hot nor cold from the vents.

The ammeter near the control panel indicates 5-6 amps while the AC is selected on and 1 amp when it is off. The RV is on 30 amp shore power. I even fired up the generator to see if it had something to do with the power source. No change in symptoms.

All other electrical systems onboard have power and function normally.

Any thoughts?

2007 Fleetwood 38L diesel Bounder

Thanks!

Hal

TonyMac · 03-24-2020, 04:16 PM

5-6 amps = compressors are not running. Maybe the thermostat is set for fans on and inside temperature is already below thermostat setting. Maybe capacitors have died.

R.Wold · 03-24-2020, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shallow

Hello folks,

Starting to de-winterize the RV in prep for the warmer seasons. Turning everything on and checking functions this week.

This morning I turned on the AC. Unfortunately, the temperature is not decreasing in the RV. Temps inside remain identical to outside ambient temps.

The control panel indicates both front and rear AC are powered and selected to cool. There is are coming from the overhead vents. The air is neither hot nor cold from the vents.

The ammeter near the control panel indicates 5-6 amps while the AC is selected on and 1 amp when it is off. The RV is on 30 amp shore power. I even fired up the generator to see if it had something to do with the power source. No change in symptoms.

All other electrical systems onboard have power and function normally.

Any thoughts?

2007 Fleetwood 38L diesel Bounder

Thanks!

Hal

At 5-6 amps your compressors aren’t running. They draw around 12-15amps each depending on BTUs. A 13.5k btu should draw around 12amps. 15k closer to 14amps. So if both were on with you’d be near 30 with a few other items on.

rrtribble · 03-24-2020, 05:10 PM

Hal,

Where are you located and what is the outdoor temp?

Since I live in IL my A/C compressors won't kick in unless the inside temp is about 4 degrees above what I set on the thermostat. The fan's will blow but no cooling.

I ramped mine up to 75 inside with the Aqua Hot and then turned on A/Cs and they started right up. Didn't run long as cooled down fast.

Hope yours is nothing more than mismatch on temps and you get them running right real soon.

Stay safe - Richard

Shallow · 03-24-2020, 09:08 PM

My thoughts are the same, the AC’s should have been drawing much more power.

The temps reached 82* here in north Texas and I set the thermostat to the lowest temp setting. Seems odd to me that neither compressor is activating. I wonder if there are any breakers or fuses internal to the AC packs that may need to be reset.

cavie · 03-24-2020, 09:15 PM

You may need to reset the t-stat. Remove the 12 volt power and wait about 10 sec.

R.Wold · 03-24-2020, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shallow

My thoughts are the same, the AC’s should have been drawing much more power.

The temps reached 82* here in north Texas and I set the thermostat to the lowest temp setting. Seems odd to me that neither compressor is activating. I wonder if there are any breakers or fuses internal to the AC packs that may need to be reset.

There’s nothing in the units themselves to reset. The problem seems to be that the t-stat isn’t calling for cooling. If it’s an old enough model (2007 should be) to have an analog t-stat, it will have four wires to it: red is power, yellow is AC, green is fan, and white is heat. Connect (or jump) red and yellow and it should call for cooling and compressors should come on. Also make sure you have power at the thermostat while you’re there. If it has a grey it should be low fan, and a blue would be neg or ground.

Shallow · 03-29-2020, 11:39 AM

Thanks all, the troubleshooting continues.

I disconnected shore power for a day and turned the house battery switch to off in an attempt to reset. No luck.

Reconnected the shore power and no change.

I haven’t pulled the thermostat panel to test the wires on the back side. May attempt that today.

I did notice that the panel showing how many amps are bring pulled and what component is powered is not showing that the AC packs are powered. I’m not sure what that means.

Also, it doesn’t seem like the fridge will run on AC power only on AU/LP. It doesn’t seem the water heater is working on electric power either. I’ve checked and reset circuit breakers, no luck.

cavie · 03-29-2020, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shallow

Thanks all, the troubleshooting continues.

I disconnected shore power for a day and turned the house battery switch to off in an attempt to reset. No luck.

Reconnected the shore power and no change.

I haven’t pulled the thermostat panel to test the wires on the back side. May attempt that today.

I did notice that the panel showing how many amps are bring pulled and what component is powered is not showing that the AC packs are powered. I’m not sure what that means.

Also, it doesn’t seem like the fridge will run on AC power only on AU/LP. It doesn’t seem the water heater is working on electric power either. I’ve checked and reset circuit breakers, no luck.

Time to buy a voltmeter and learn how to use it.

Shallow · 03-29-2020, 02:19 PM

Thanks Cavie, any recommendations on where to begin testing voltage?

Thanks,

Hal

R.Wold · 03-29-2020, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shallow

Thanks Cavie, any recommendations on where to begin testing voltage?

Thanks,

Hal

With all those issues popping up, I’d start at the transfer switch and then follow to the hot side of the breakers, then switched side, then power at the appliances. Or save some time and do it backwards for the appliance if you only have one not working.

But really pull the t-stat and make it call for cooling first. Might save a lot of time.

Shallow · 03-29-2020, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.Wold

With all those issues popping up, I’d start at the transfer switch and then follow to the hot side of the breakers, then switched side, then power at the appliances. Or save some time and do it backwards for the appliance if you only have one not working.

But really pull the t-stat and make it call for cooling first. Might save a lot of time.

Ok, will head back out to it this evening and pull the T-stat.

Thanks

Shallow · 03-29-2020, 04:56 PM

Update:

I pulled the T-stat, removed power for 15 seconds and plugged it back in. No change in result. I set a colder temp than the ambient temp and the fans for both units come on. But only 6 amps being pulled on the load meter.

Additionally, there is a rainbow of wires (9 exactly) exiting the T-stat. Red, red with candy stripe, orange, yellow, purple, green, white, blue and blue with candy stripe. Not sure if they match the color coding mentioned earlier.

I’m starting to wonder if there isn’t a larger problem though. The 50 Amp Smart EMS Loadmeter has lights that display what components are powered. ie: water heater, refrigerator, AC #1, AC #2. None of the lights are illuminated.

I tried to turn the refrigerator on with AC power and the display on the refrigerator control panel says no AC available.

Also the electric water heater doesn’t pull any amps when selected on the control power.

Oddly, the microwave works normally.

geordi · 03-29-2020, 05:20 PM

If the circuits behind your smart EMS system aren't powered, then the A/Cs aren't going to be either. I'm somewhat surprised that the fans would have separate power from the compressors, as that requires TWO power circuits to each roof air, but anything is possible. The EMS system in my old coach was an either/or system. If the AC was powered, the whole thing worked. If it wasn't, the whole thing was dead. There wasn't any option for just the fan.

I'd start by chasing the power from the breakers, see if there are two leads to the roof air and one of them is from the EMS. If you don't have power, it's obvious why it isn't working, and it SHOULD when the generator is on, unless the EMS system is what is at fault. Since multiple things (like the fridge) are not working on AC, it sounds like the problem is in the EMS.