AC power remain with chassis batteries pulled out?

[gnvrvin]

Hey All
Going to swap out the bad lead acids on house side....my fault
And going to replace with VMAX AGM 8D'S ...Already ordered and delivery today

Question is I want.to pull ou all 3 8D's clean battery compartment prior to installing the AGM's...chasis battery is lead acid and is in good shape . Will I still have shore power to AC outlets when house batteries are removed?

Thanks
Greg

[Fast E]

Originally Posted by gnvrvin

Hey All
Going to swap out the bad lead acids on house side....my fault
And going to replace with VMAX AGM 8D'S ...Already ordered and delivery today

Question is I want.to pull ou all 3 8D's clean battery compartment prior to installing the AGM's...chasis battery is lead acid and is in good shape . Will I still have shore power to AC outlets when house batteries are removed?

Thanks
Greg

You have two main switches. One for house, one for chassis. Turn the main house switch 'OFF'. You can then use shore power, and disconnect your batteries.

[BigEvi]

I doubt it. When I remove my house batts the whole house goes dead...even with shore power available. But not sure what kind if systems you have. I have a BCC and I'm guessing that once it senses the batt is disconnected or failed it shuts down the whole system to protect it.

-E

[gnvrvin]

Fast E
Only have one switch for chassis
There is a latching switch by entrance door to shut off house batteries but not all parasitic loads...that would happen once batteries were disconnected

I think I will shut the inverter off at the inverter before disconnecting and see what happens

Greg

[Gary RVRoamer]

Many 120vac-powered appliances won't work without 12vdc power for their controller boards, but the wall outlets should continue to work.


The a/c units probably won't come on because the thermostat is typically 12v. Ditto for the propane furnace, if you have one. I think an Aquahot uses 12vdc control too.

[gnvrvin]

Gary
That's what I was hoping only worried about the fridge which is on an inverter circuit...residential fridge so no 12vdc

Not much in it so guess incould just unload and ice chest it until I clean battery compartment and reinstall batterie

Appreciate the feed back folks!
Greg

[Dutch Star Don]

Greg if you can access it, just plug the refer into an extension cord.

Not sure what inverter/charger you have, but Magnum was a popular model in that era. Magnum wants you disconnect the positive (+) cable from the batteries to the inverter FIRST, not the negative side. I don't know the technical reason why, just that they suggest it.

[RichardE]

Don, Magnum is concerned the circuit could try to make ground through the remote control panel, frying the control panel. Or trying to make ground in some other fashion, such as through the mounting bolts on the inverter.

[Mudfrog]

Originally Posted by gnvrvin

Gary
That's what I was hoping only worried about the fridge which is on an inverter circuit...residential fridge so no 12vdc

Not much in it so guess incould just unload and ice chest it until I clean battery compartment and reinstall batterie

Appreciate the feed back folks!
Greg

To be safe and not cause any sparks, I'd shut down all power before removing the batteries. Unhook shore, turn off inverter, and make sure the genset won't start. If ya gotta have power while the batteries are out, then make sure to insulate the dangling positive cable end to be safe.

A normal cleaning of compartment/connections and then the replacing of batteries shouldn't take all that long so probably no need to worry about transferring food from the refrigerator. Something more major like cleaning, sanding, repainting would take longer of course so yes, it would be a good idea to have the cooler ready for something like that.

[Tha_Rooster]

Originally Posted by Fast E

You have two main switches. One for house, one for chassis. Turn the main house switch 'OFF'. You can then use shore power, and disconnect your batteries.

If it’s plugged in wouldn’t charger still be hot?

[Mudfrog]

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

If it’s plugged in wouldn’t charger still be hot?

I believe on most rigs, the batteries are disconnected from the charger when the battery disconnect is open. However, I would imagine there are RVs out there that this isn't the case and is the reason I stated above to insulate the loose positive cable end just to be safe if shore power is to be used.

[Rbalsinger]

Originally Posted by Mudfrog

To be safe and not cause any sparks, I'd shut down all power before removing the batteries. Unhook shore, turn off inverter, and make sure the genset won't start. .

That is my 2 c also.

[gnvrvin]

Thanks for all the responses
Hope to do this this weekend
I tossed the smart charger on both new batteries today and they both went into float mode within minutes
Gonna let em rest till tomorrow and check and see if both are close in voltage
And yes was thinking of having coach disconnected from both AC and DC sources during swap out...definitely have 12v connectors isolated from any contact from frame

Our inverter is a Xantrex RV2012GS it maintains a permanent chasis ground so I will follow normal disconnect of batteries as negative first the 12vdc posts and and reverse on install

Thanks Again for all the help...constantly learning

Greg