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Old 06-28-2017, 01:18 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Knightab View Post
So the install went great! I installed the 30 amp 2 space box under the bed, ran 10gauge wire to it, connected the 12 gauge from the AC to the breaker. Drilled a 2-1/8" hole above the original 30 Amp receptacle and mounted new one and connected. To test it I used my 30 amp to 15amp pigtail and had to run an extension cord from the outlet, 25' cord. Turned on the AC on high and it works perfect, no sputter. While running on full it is pulling 13.8 amps. This is a 15K dometic Brisk air II. Finished cleaning up and ready to put her to use.
Cool!

You also have a spare breaker space if you ever need it.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:56 PM   #16
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So the install is done and today is the first day to get to test it. 82* out today, by the time we got to the campground and got setup the coach was up to 88* inside, turned both AC's on and let them run, in about 20 minutes the temp stated to drop at the thermostat. In about an hour and a half the temp was down to 72* the rv was sitting in full sun with no trees. Very happy with this. I even tested my 20 amp breaker by turning the temp up to shut off the compressor and then back on, it promptly tripped the breaker I installed.
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:38 AM   #17
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So the install is done and today is the first day to get to test it. 82* out today, by the time we got to the campground and got setup the coach was up to 88* inside, turned both AC's on and let them run, in about 20 minutes the temp stated to drop at the thermostat. In about an hour and a half the temp was down to 72* the rv was sitting in full sun with no trees. Very happy with this. I even tested my 20 amp breaker by turning the temp up to shut off the compressor and then back on, it promptly tripped the breaker I installed.

Tripping the breaker is a good thing?
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Old 07-15-2017, 06:47 AM   #18
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Tripping the breaker is a good thing?
Lol, well normally no but I wanted to make sure it functioned properly. As you know if you reset the compressor to soon it overloads the breaker. I want to test the breaker but also that nothing in the ac malfunctioned before the breaker tripped. So normally I Don't want them to trip but under test conditions I like to see them perform as expected.
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:49 AM   #19
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Lol, well normally no but I wanted to make sure it functioned properly. As you know if you reset the compressor to soon it overloads the breaker. I want to test the breaker but also that nothing in the ac malfunctioned before the breaker tripped. So normally I Don't want them to trip but under test conditions I like to see them perform as expected.
Nope I didn't know that. Now I do though! I thought the AC's had a delay to keep them from starting too soon.

Cool is good, makes the trip much more enjoyable. Not only do the AC's cool the air, they cool tempers as well in my coach.
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Old 07-19-2018, 03:04 PM   #20
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I have a 2017 ACE 29.3 and want to do this mod. Do you have any photos of the completed work under the bed? Did you put it in the same location as the present distribution panel/fuse box? Or is it under the bed lift? Have you had any problems with the set up since you made the mod? I am very interested in do this as I live in Southern Nevada and the temps get very, very hot. The other day we were in the ACE and the outside temp was over 105 and the interior was around 95...the single 15K AC simply could not keep up with the demand.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:11 AM   #21
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I have a 2017 ACE 29.3 and want to do this mod. Do you have any photos of the completed work under the bed? Did you put it in the same location as the present distribution panel/fuse box? Or is it under the bed lift? Have you had any problems with the set up since you made the mod? I am very interested in do this as I live in Southern Nevada and the temps get very, very hot. The other day we were in the ACE and the outside temp was over 105 and the interior was around 95...the single 15K AC simply could not keep up with the demand.
Do you want to add a second AC and be able to run both ACs on your 4K generator or run the second AC only when plugged in? Running the second AC only when plugged in makes the wiring much easier. I hooked mine up to run off the coach 30 amp power distribution panel or off a separate power receptacle on the coach exterior, next to the factory 30 amp receptacle.

I have seldom used the generator to run both AC units at the same time. When driving, the 15K and dash air have been sufficient for where I have been driving. I have however, run both on the generator for up to 2 hours without issue. Most of the time I am plugged in when running both units, no issues.

Did have a breaker trip once for the added AC. Found that I had inadvertently cut the insulation on the hot wire in the AC junction box, allowing it to ground out.

Let me know how you want to use the added AC and I can post some threads to help and a you tube video of what I did.

If you add an 11k power saver, your inside will probably still be hot (85ish) with 105 outside air temp if parked in full sun.

If you use the "wire to outside receptacle only" method, you could install a 15 K unit which would help in 105 degree situations.
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Old 07-20-2018, 04:46 PM   #22
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We live in Southern Nevada and tend to park in full sun at most of the RV parks we frequent...so, I think that I really would not require running the 2nd AC off the generator. I am not sure, but when I look at the distribution box on the bed pedestal I thought that I saw a breaker for a second AC. I only say that because it might already be wired for a 2nd AC. If that is the case, then it should be a simple matter of pulling that breaker or getting a new breaker and a new box, connect the wires and then run the 6 or 10 gauge wire from a second power inlet. What do you think?


Thanks
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:27 AM   #23
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We live in Southern Nevada and tend to park in full sun at most of the RV parks we frequent...so, I think that I really would not require running the 2nd AC off the generator. I am not sure, but when I look at the distribution box on the bed pedestal I thought that I saw a breaker for a second AC. I only say that because it might already be wired for a 2nd AC. If that is the case, then it should be a simple matter of pulling that breaker or getting a new breaker and a new box, connect the wires and then run the 6 or 10 gauge wire from a second power inlet. What do you think?


Thanks

Knightab has a 29.3 and he added a 15K to his. He ran the wire via breaker to an outside 30 amp receptacle. If I did it again, this is how I would do it.

Here is a post of his:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/addi...ml#post3669935

This thread gives quite a bit of info:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/addi...on-330169.html

If you do this method with a 30 amp receptacle make sure the lid on the receptacle, when open, clears the slide.

Here is a thread you might find interesting:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/ace-29-3-a-223543.html

Here is a crude index for the 29.3 thread:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/ace-...ml#post3412018

You can also private message me or Knightab if you have questions.

We are both happy with and glad we added the ac units.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:15 AM   #24
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I just ordered two of these for my coach. I am going to install a 2nd A/C in my bedroom of a 2017 Thor ACE 29.3. The good folks at Mcroair tell me that this should allow me to run BOTH A/Cs on the 30 AMP circuit in the coach...provided that I exercise appropriate power management techniques such as switching fridge and water heater to LP and perhaps not running microwave at same time as both A/C units.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:19 AM   #25
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Copied my post from another thread:

adding second ac

Just finished adding an 11k BTU Power Saver AC to the rear fan opening.
Amp draw, 23.5 with both ac's running and everything else off or on gas. 24.5 with both ac's and converter on. Uses about 74% of the generator's full load. Both ac's start easily and do not stall the generator.

Have not finished the final power connection yet. Have it hooked temporarily into distribution panel under bed. Have ordered 2 contactors and installed a toggle switch between the two. One contactor will supply power from the distribution panel the other from a cord in the power bay. Will allow me to get shore power for the additional ac from a 120v outlet when available and leave the 30 amp for the rest of the rv. May make an adapter so I can plug the 120 volt cord and 30 amp cord into a 50 amp outlet.

The original 15k BTU ac would pull temp down about 10 degrees below outside temp. Today, with both units running resulted in a 15 degree pull down. I think it would have managed 17 degrees if I left it running long enough. We will be happy with 15 degree pull down, 100 degrees to 85 is tolerable for us. If we are driving and running dash air, we should get 20+/- degree pull down.

Cost was about $850 for parts. Ran the wire through the ceiling using the same chase as the fan wire, through the overhead cab, down the bath wall through wire mold, through the base cab, into the bed compartment. Running the wire was the hardest part. AC install is a breeze once it is on the roof.
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This was from August 2016. I used 2 contactors and a toggle switch to select between shore and generator power. Works well, but a regular switch would probably work as well as the contactors as long as the AC is off when you switch it. I can send some pics if it will help you.

Glad we did it. Makes summer camping more pleasant, especially with two dogs.
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Yes, used a piece of bailing wire first then tied on the 10/2 w grnd. 14/2 or 12/2 probably would have been big enough for the 11k BTU I installed. It only requires 15 amps. Would have been easier to pull the smaller wire too. I ran the bailing wire from the ac to the overhead cabinet then pulled cable back to the ac. Least amount of wire to pull through chase that way. Running the wire was the hardest part of the install. Mousemate did a better job of concealing the wire than I did. He was able to run it down the bath wall into the night stand/ bed area by removing the left end panel from the overhead cab.

Not sure I understand the part about removing the left side of the overhead cabinet wall...I don't see any screws there at all. How was it removed?


Thanks...
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:25 AM   #26
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Do you want to add a second AC and be able to run both ACs on your 4K generator or run the second AC only when plugged in? Running the second AC only when plugged in makes the wiring much easier. I hooked mine up to run off the coach 30 amp power distribution panel or off a separate power receptacle on the coach exterior, next to the factory 30 amp receptacle.

I have seldom used the generator to run both AC units at the same time. When driving, the 15K and dash air have been sufficient for where I have been driving. I have however, run both on the generator for up to 2 hours without issue. Most of the time I am plugged in when running both units, no issues.

Did have a breaker trip once for the added AC. Found that I had inadvertently cut the insulation on the hot wire in the AC junction box, allowing it to ground out.

Let me know how you want to use the added AC and I can post some threads to help and a you tube video of what I did.

If you add an 11k power saver, your inside will probably still be hot (85ish) with 105 outside air temp if parked in full sun.

If you use the "wire to outside receptacle only" method, you could install a 15 K unit which would help in 105 degree situations.

Very interested in seeing your youtube videos on this...I have the A/C in the garage, ordered Microair Easystart, and am just waiting for a day when the temps outside are below 100 before getting up on the roof. We have been experiencing temps in the 113 range for the past several weeks and I don't want to be up there in those temps.
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Old 07-28-2018, 04:29 PM   #27
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Just posted a video. Let me know if you have any questions.

Youtube:

https://youtu.be/Vz7vfFAGOs4
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:01 PM   #28
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Smile

Quote:
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Just posted a video. Let me know if you have any questions.

Youtube:

https://youtu.be/Vz7vfFAGOs4



Thanks for the video. This will provide some good reference points as I begin to run the wire from the overhead opening to the power distribution center under the bed.
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