Adding Freon to Class A RV

[Sundancer268]

Originally Posted by novi2some

On a diesel pusher, how do get to the dash a/c compressor or plumbing? I am new to DP motorhome.

On my Spartan Chassis, Gulf Stream, I had to remove my instrument cluster panels ( Back-up camera, heater controls, Heater controls, engine gauges electrical switch panel etc) to access the evaporator housing assembly enough to replace the TXV and the hoses from the compressor. The receiver dryer was accessed from the generator door. My condenser is mounted behind the front axle up between the frame rails as high as they could mount it with an electric fan mounted to it.It must be a good location as I see no damage to it and no excessive contamination, it is a royal PITA to clean without a hoist, I was wet from laying in the runoff water and cleaner. Finished the cleaning and took a shower to remove any chemical residue from my old body.

[Dav L]

You got me motivated to charge up my Durango last night too. But I wasn't motivated enough with the mosquitos biting to find the actual leak...so charged it for another summer of cool. I did use gauges though because I have them... Only 1/4 can got the compressor to kick on, so I know it still had some freon in the system. So no need to vac.
Also...I apply freon and crack the fittings to rid of air in the lines before opening the low pressure valve on the car. That's one little thing that a gauge set lets you do that a WalMart rig doesn't.

The wife's car is today. But that will be parts replacement I am sure. Just have to figure out which parts today and get them ordered. Under the rear tire some aluminum tubing chafed is my guess...

Go DIY!

[shootist]

Originally Posted by Dom

The argument was if r410 and r22 were combustible. Try to keep up

Try to admit when you're wrong. Most refers sold in the US are butane or propane filled, very few are not.

[dastout]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Well, simplistically the answer is yes, but actually you can't use Freon anymore and only licensed HVAC techs can even buy it.

It true, can buy at any auto store R 134 that is.

[reverand2000]

Quick tip to speed up charging process. Place the charging can into a bucket of WARM (not hot!) water. This will bring the can temperature up and so the pressure. Be sure to monitor the pressure on the low side while doing this. Only use warm water so you don't cause to high of a pressure.
As the pressure drops, shut the valve and let the can warm up again.
Always used this method when in the business for many many years.

[Bobbafett]

Get it done right.

Those cans are a quick fix. And is affected by ambient air which no one states.
I took my 2005 pursuit to a local garage. Vacuum and charge with die and lubricant for $120

The cans do not have the lubricant I believe. and the system needs it. Just find a shop that will do it. I found one...literally the first one I went into..

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by shootist

Try to admit when you're wrong. Most refers sold in the US are butane or propane filled, very few are not.

Our two year old Kenmore Elite (made by Samsung) is filled with R134a.

Should I grab my gas grill bottle and change it out?

[Dom]

Originally Posted by DryCreek

Our two year old Kenmore Elite (made by Samsung) is filled with R134a.

Should I grab my gas grill bottle and change it out?

Thats a good one. To Dashout, you can't fix stupid

[Dom]

Sorry, meant dry creek. Some fridges now have r600 refrigerant which has some butane. About 1 ounce. Holy smoke Batman

[Dom]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

...all good advice here but with out a set of gauges, an ambient air pressure chart, and some HVAC experience, you are only guessing.....good luck
PS--might be a viable option in this case but I never liked adding "stop-leak" to any closed system, except as a last resort....

You are right, but since automotive compressors are not really sealed systems, like an a/c or fridge. some leak stops, actually rejuvenate the seals. On an older RV its probably worth a try

[akpd]

Originally Posted by Dom

The likely cause of a leak is that, being a motor home, it sits for long periods at a time. This dries out the seals on compressor shaft. You might want to first add a leak seal can first. It comes with a small amount of refrigerant to push it into system. Thats ok because you will likely need a little more that a can anyway. If compressor keeps cycling at medium throttle, you likely don't have enough refrigerant.

Do not add leak seal, but you do want to add a can of 134a with dye so you can find the leak with a black light.

[Oldcaster]

Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Get it done right.

Those cans are a quick fix. And is affected by ambient air which no one states.
I took my 2005 pursuit to a local garage. Vacuum and charge with die and lubricant for $120

The cans do not have the lubricant I believe. and the system needs it. Just find a shop that will do it. I found one...literally the first one I went into..

Not sure what the ambient air has to do with it???

And I guarantee the next 10 you go into will do it for you. That service is one of those BINGO services that can be done by a hung-over teenager with minimal skills and pretty much costs them nothing in parts (except the $2000 machine)

So let's see, for $120, they pretty much topped yours off with the same amount of R134 as is in one of these cans and added some dye, They spent about 50 cents. Half the DIY cans sold at the car part places come with dye in them as well so you can find your own leak if it's detectable. Most the brands do have oil mixed in and are just fine, read the label. In fact, you have to search if you want "Pure R-134a"

So the shop made about $115 to suck your 134 into a container, and then they dumped it back in with some dye and a bit of top off. Pretty good margin if you ask me -

It's just that words Freon, Refrigerant, High Pressures, (and now "highly explosive") worry people so they shy away from it. Would you pay someone $100 to "Top off your tires with air???"

Probably not...

[Oldcaster]

what the heck does home fridges have to do with this topic???

Get a room...

[Bobbafett]

Originally Posted by Oldcaster

Not sure what the ambient air has to do with it???

And I guarantee the next 10 you go into will do it for you. That service is one of those BINGO services that can be done by a hung-over teenager with minimal skills and pretty much costs them nothing in parts (except the $2000 machine)

So let's see, for $120, they pretty much topped yours off with the same amount of R134 as is in one of these cans and added some dye, They spent about 50 cents. Half the DIY cans sold at the car part places come with dye in them as well so you can find your own leak if it's detectable. Most the brands do have oil mixed in and are just fine, read the label. In fact, you have to search if you want "Pure R-134a"

So the shop made about $115 to suck your 134 into a container, and then they dumped it back in with some dye and a bit of top off. Pretty good margin if you ask me -

It's just that words Freon, Refrigerant, High Pressures, (and now "highly explosive") worry people so they shy away from it. Would you pay someone $100 to "Top off your tires with air???"

Probably not...

Your 100% incorrect and truly negative..glad I'm not next to you at an rv park or nation park.

Air temp had much to do with recharging. The dial on some of the refrigerant cans has a dial to adjust for ambient air temp. Some dont. You could over charge the system if not adjusted under charge.

I had no refrigerant in my lines. Totally dry. Clutch would not engage because it was too low.
They vacuumed for 1.5 hours and let it sit for 3 to make sure it heald a vacuum which it did. Then they recharged with new refrigerant.

Not everyone out there are ripping people off and some kid wasn't working on the rv.

This wasn't a random shop. It was the closes one to my work, we all know each other in town. They eat in my restaurant. And I fill my gas and get oil changes at this shop...
I was making the point to get it done correctly instead of using a can from Walmart.