Community Forums

eddiehop · 06-09-2019, 04:24 PM

Will the over the counter cans of Freon work on the dash air for 2012 Newmarket le?

TLGPE · 06-09-2019, 05:05 PM

Yep, with the usual caveats.

eddiehop · 06-09-2019, 07:14 PM

What problems?

Dav L · 06-09-2019, 07:23 PM

RV dash air is same as auto air.
It is charged the same.
The question is - why do you need to charge it?
Was the system opened for service?
Is there a leak? Is the leak fixed?
Do you have a vacuum and gauge set?
Those are some of the usual caveats.

Mr_D · 06-09-2019, 07:34 PM

Well, simplistically the answer is yes, but actually you can't use Freon anymore and only licensed HVAC techs can even buy it.

Mr Lars · 06-09-2019, 07:41 PM

depending on what State you are in, anyone can purchase the cans and a hose with gauge of R 134 at an auto parts,Walmart,Target etc, to add to your automotive HVAC system.

Old Scout · 06-09-2019, 07:44 PM

….OP says he owns a 2012, so I "assume" he is asking about 134a.....as for the OPs question--unless you have the experienced and HVAC equipment, servicing your own dash A/C is kind of a crap-shoot....yup -- lots of folks through in a can of 134a and go on down the road, sometimes for years...however, there is probably a reason the system is "low" and if so, it will eventually come back.....

hypoxia · 06-10-2019, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddiehop

Will the over the counter cans of Freon work on the dash air for 2012 Newmarket le?

R134a is available at many Walmarts for $4 a can, there is no difference between that and a high dollar R134a. Add a hose with gauge https://www.amazon.com/FJC-6036-R134...4a%2Caps%2C304
put a can in and see what happens. If the compressor starts running and cooling you know the system is working and that you have a leak. It may cool for a day or a year, who knows? An upright can is gas and an upside down can is liquid. Liquid is not compressible so don't do that with the engine running, it will liquid lock the compressor.

G Schulz · 06-10-2019, 06:06 AM

I’ve always thought that the 134A should be added to the low pressure side with the can upside down with the engine running and the AC set to high.

CountryB · 06-10-2019, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G Schulz

I’ve always thought that the 134A should be added to the low pressure side with the can upside down with the engine running and the AC set to high.

"Can upside down" is adding refrigerant as liquid.

The answer is - it depends where the low side port is.
If it is at the compressor, then add your refrigerant as a gas. If it is at the accumulator (i.e. on those vehicles with an accumulator rather than an expansion valve) you can add refrigerant as a liquid - in that case it doesn't matter.

Dav L · 06-10-2019, 06:17 AM

I have always tilted the can back and forth so liquid is sucked in but not in big globs that can kill a compressor. And yes, must be connected to the low pressure side only. As they are different diameter orifices, it would be kinda difficult to do otherwise.

But, there is / was a leak. It went somewhere.

PlanBee · 06-10-2019, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

I have always tilted the can back and forth so liquid is sucked in but not in big globs that can kill a compressor. And yes, must be connected to the low pressure side only. As they are different diameter orifices, it would be kinda difficult to do otherwise.

But, there is / was a leak. It went somewhere.

That is the instructions typically right on the can....

And you are right it is leaking somewhere, it doesn't wear out.

Dom · 06-10-2019, 08:39 AM

The likely cause of a leak is that, being a motor home, it sits for long periods at a time. This dries out the seals on compressor shaft. You might want to first add a leak seal can first. It comes with a small amount of refrigerant to push it into system. Thats ok because you will likely need a little more that a can anyway. If compressor keeps cycling at medium throttle, you likely don't have enough refrigerant.

Old Scout · 06-10-2019, 08:51 AM

...all good advice here but with out a set of gauges, an ambient air pressure chart, and some HVAC experience, you are only guessing.....good luck
PS--might be a viable option in this case but I never liked adding "stop-leak" to any closed system, except as a last resort....