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Old 10-03-2017, 10:24 AM   #1
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Afraid its that time again WINTERIZING

This link will help you out, have fun.
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:06 PM   #2
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I've got a 2000 Tradewinds, and I can't find the drain for the fresh water storage. Winterized today, but can't find the drain plug. It's getting cold on North Dakota.
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:58 PM   #3
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Have you looked in the compartment that holds the water tank and also under coach at plastic pipe through the compartment floor.
You may have stuff piled against the valve for drain.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:18 PM   #4
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On mine the fresh water drain is in the front passenger side under storage bay. On the back wall up high on the left side there is a cover that is held in place with Velcro. Pull that off and there is a valve behind it to drain tank. Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:40 PM   #5
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Afraid its that time again WINTERIZING

I know where you are talking about. My RV has a mid-ship entry door, with storage compartment adjacent to the stairwell. The cover you are speaking of has two water lines with valves coming out of it one is for the fresh water overflow, the other I assumed was a drain to the hot water heater which is directly above the storage bay. I'm sure that my assumption was a major error. Will make the correction in morning.
The rest of the unit was a snap to blowdown and winterize. Hope I don't have to change out the water pump in my lifetime.
Thank You, for the valuable directs, I hope you enjoy your Tradewinds as much as we do ours. Bought it last winter, and had a few problems, but have had a great time.
Thank You,
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:24 PM   #6
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And if you are living in the unit, I presume there is a way or something to add to the system somehow to avoid frozen pipes?
I'm still trying to learn how to make water get into the toilet and come out of the sink and I do not intend to use propane or water heater so please, be kind.
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Old 10-14-2017, 11:44 AM   #7
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If your living in your coach why wouldn't you want the heat on?
Would make things simpler and would not need heat tapes around all your plumbing pipes even if you could get to them all.
Camping in winter months.
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Old 10-14-2017, 11:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";3850456]If your living in your coach why wouldn't you want the heat on?
Would make things simpler and would not need heat tapes around all your plumbing pipes even if you could get to them all.
[B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/essex-and-general-info-on-sub-zero-temp-coach-use-45353.html
Camping in winter months.[/URL][/B]
Because unless my heater works on electric (rather than propane), a couple of space heaters will likely do the job for heating the RV.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:11 AM   #9
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They do make a electrical heating devise that you can add to your furnace vent outlet i think it was called CHEAP HEAT with it you would also be heating the plumbing below in your compartments.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:21 AM   #10
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They do make a electric heater add on to your furnace that will also heat lower compartments where your plumbing is located.
I think in was called CHEAP HEAT might work for you.
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Old 10-21-2017, 10:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x16inside View Post
And if you are living in the unit, I presume there is a way or something to add to the system somehow to avoid frozen pipes?
I'm still trying to learn how to make water get into the toilet and come out of the sink and I do not intend to use propane or water heater so please, be kind.
You must be trying to make a joke. Why would you want toilet water to come out of your sink. LOL
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:32 PM   #12
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My unit is in an open storage facility less than a mile from the house and even though I hate this humid climate and wish I were back in the desert, living in the SE coastal plains of Texas, just north of the Houston city limits does have it's advantages in "winterizing". My main winter effort is in ensuring that I watch the weather forecast. If I do "winterize" it's only to disconnect the negative cable on the coach batteries, which I've already done after figuring out a battery problem last week and drain the freshwater system and lines. Last year, after replacing the piece of junk shut off valve on the system drain, I added a quick disconnect to the drain line that allows me to hook up a hose and drain to a ditch behind the RV. Throughout the winter, I continue to check and run the RV and the genny twice a month. About every other month, I'll pull it out of storage drive it up to the house and plug it in and let it charge up the batteries.
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:34 PM   #13
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I use combo of elec and propane...it avoids condensation for one. and when you wake up you can little warmer ....well I dont worry so much about basement as mine has 3" insulated floor in basement and 2.5" insulated doors. and heat ducts that can be open or closed as needed.. and I fill water and use pump not hose....why insulate a hose...you have water in same places except tank...which does not freeze with insulated and heated bays, which acts as a stable heat source along with black and grey tanks.. I don't dump till needed.. and then put antifreeze in then close valves to make storage of heat.. we live in ND and have used coach and 5'ths and gassers well into November as deer hunting RULES.. now every idea does not work for everybody as it depends on coach build and how used....never had problem yet,, well ice maker solenoid broke..
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:12 PM   #14
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I’m new to Motorhome winterizing, as I’ve had 5th. Wheels in the past. I have three main concerns, the washing machine, dish washer, and ice maker winterization! Any advice or tips will be appreciated.
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