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Old 11-11-2017, 12:48 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ElvistheKing View Post
Welcome to the internet.
Threads change and evolve over time.
Only if they are allowed to drift off topic.
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Old 11-11-2017, 09:49 AM   #16
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The purpose of the thread was to identify sources for locks from those that have installed them. It was not to debate the value of said locks.
You know what the engine compartment hatch looks like. You know whether it overlaps the side of the RV or is inset into the side. With that information, you can search tens of thousands of locks, latches, and fasteners on the 'net. Like:

Chrome locking hasp

Push button locking latch

Locking compartment latch

Locking door fastener

When you put such a 'softball' question up on a forum, expect to get questioned over the need of said locks.
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:55 AM   #17
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I was thinking about putting on an engine compartment lock when I first moved our then new coach to a public storage facility. I never did do it and have had no ill effects, but this thread got me thinking again. I'll go over and check it out later today, but it seems that something like this --> https://www.carid.com/rv-designer/rv...-59554486.html
might work with little or no modifications.

FYI- I had Amazon send me the lock shown in the link in my earlier post. It fit perfectly.
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:06 PM   #18
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Rather than install a lock in the current push button position, how about using a choke cable. Install the end you pull in a lockable side compartment near the engine and run the cable to a plate attached to the back side of the door with a hole in it. Place a rod on the end of the cable that slides through the hole. Pretty easy to make.
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:36 PM   #19
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Thanks to all for suggestions. My coach doesn't have a push button latch. Instead it has 1/4" rod with a 90 degree bend that pulls down to release the latch. Consequently it doesn't look like a push button latch will work. I had thought about a cable operated release but the way the door louvers are positioned, the cable would be exposed on the outside of coach. Looks like a bolt on solution may not exist without drilling into the door & rear cap. Looks like some custom fabrication is going to be required.
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Old 11-18-2017, 11:06 PM   #20
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Our MH has 2 of these on the front access door above the generator and 2 on the rear access door to the engine compartment. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44293-A.../dp/B0024E6RZ2

No-one but me checks oil, trans, hyd oil on my MH. The locks keep nosy mechanics/techs away from things that have nothing to do with what they are supposed to be adjusting, repairing or replacing. Had one mechanic try to tell me the hyd oil system required flushing; Spartan states in their literature to NEVER flush the hyd oil system unless an unapproved fluid was introduced into the system.
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Old 11-19-2017, 03:29 PM   #21
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ray,in

Can you post pictures of the installation of the locks on the engine doors?
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:49 PM   #22
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Can you post pictures of the installation of the locks on the engine doors?
I'll try, my locks are OEM from Winnebago. The chassis is Spartan/side radiator, which means there is only one top-hinged door. The locks are in the bottom corners of the louvered door. The locking lug rotates into a slotted metal piece on each side of the door.
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:19 AM   #23
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I originally started this thread in search of a bolt-on lock for my DP engine compartment. I was looking for an add-on lock that could be installed without drilling holes or modifying the coach in any way. While many of the responses were helpful there were a few that did not see any value in adding a lock.

Anyway, I didn't find any bolt-on locks that could be installed without modifying the coach. Consequently I made my own out of stainless steel sheet metal & an off-the-shelf RV cam lock. It does not require drilling any holes or modifying the coach in any way. Just wanted to share the idea with those that think an engine compartment lock is prudent. For those that don't, please don't try to convince me that a lock is useless. I have already made up my mind, so please don't confuse me with facts.

Here are a before & after picture:
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:12 PM   #24
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Nice cosmetic job. How does it work? Is the plate when locked, keeping the pin from dropping? What keeps the plate in place? What's the tumbler connected to?
Maybe a picture of it unlocked would help explain?
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:08 AM   #25
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Nice cosmetic job. How does it work? Is the plate when locked, keeping the pin from dropping? What keeps the plate in place? What's the tumbler connected to?
Maybe a picture of it unlocked would help explain?
Thanks. When locked, the cam on the lock prevents the rod on the hood latch from dropping. Turning the key 90 degrees causes the cam to rotate out of the way, allowing the hood latch rod to drop. The bracket is mounted using the same screws that mount the hood latch. If the workings are still unclear I can post some screen shots from the 3D CAD package I used to design it.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:00 AM   #26
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Ok, so the Plate is bent 90 degrees and is screwed "up" to the bottom of the hood? Where the original plate was? Did you retain the original plate?

I have so many projects going on with mine to make it roadworthy that this is detail. But interested in your design anyway.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:32 AM   #27
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Most locks won't keep a young kid from breaking in. The cost of broke into doors is over a 1000 dollars. Locks unless welded in and extreme heavy duty won't keep even a honest person out.
Parking in good neighborhoods is the best prevention.
We only lock the entry door.
Take the junk in outside compartments so I can new.
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:18 PM   #28
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Most locks won't keep a young kid from breaking in. The cost of broke into doors is over a 1000 dollars. Locks unless welded in and extreme heavy duty won't keep even a honest person out.
Parking in good neighborhoods is the best prevention.
We only lock the entry door.
Take the junk in outside compartments so I can new.
That might be the case, but if I saw my engine hood damaged from someone trying to pry the lock, I at least know to check the engine stuff (oil, antifreeze, hydraulics) to see if that too was tampered with before starting and driving off the cliff.

I would gladly bring out the fiberglass repair kit to avoid any of that.

Same thing with your front door lock...isn't the window pane next to it super easy to break? With that said - why bother locking your front door?

I think the hood lock is to make it non trivial to mess with the engine stuff. And to make some noise while the prying is going on. I could probably change your engine oil for you while you sleep and you wouldn't even miss a snore.

Mine will also have a security system on it. Just as importantly to remind me that the hood is flapping around because I forgot to secure it (yup, have done that before - saw it in the rear view camera). The baggage doors will be wired too (yup, have driven off with a door open too...and another time, it was closed but not secured and it opened on the first road bounce..)

The most secure part of an alarm system is the sticker that says you have an alarm system. dp7's hood latch - the most secure part is that it looks like it requires a key.

Yes, we try to park in safe places...unavoidable for the most part. Is McDonald's parking lot safe? Walmart? The truck stop? Lots of opportunity for people to mess with stuff.

90% of theft is "casual" because it looked too easy. Just like the folks stealing packages left on the porch by UPS. If it was in a screen porch, that would put some hesitation. If you baggage doors are unlocked, a quick tug on the handle while walking by, and your stuff is gone. And you are right...if someone really wants something they will get it and cause much more damage. No matter what you do.
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