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Old 05-14-2018, 08:55 PM   #1
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AIR Brake lines ???

I noticed this when I was having the shocks changed.
Is this something that needs to be addressed right away.
Or is this just a low pressure line that I can get fixes at the next service.
Obviously been there since it was built 5 years ago.
see the kink in the green brake hose in image below.

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Old 05-14-2018, 09:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F29DCB View Post
I noticed this when I was having the shocks changed.

Is this something that needs to be addressed right away.

Or is this just a low pressure line that I can get fixes at the next service.

Obviously been there since it was built 5 years ago.

see the kink in the green brake hose in image below.



Attachment 202740


It is not really a low pressure line but green is in the primary air system. Usually brake related. Cannot tell from image what its actual purpose is. With the kink I am sure you are getting some restriction on whatever device is connected.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:46 PM   #3
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On my 2002 Freightliner chassis the green air line is - Rear Brakes (Primary). That looks like the treadle valve in your picture.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F29DCB View Post
I noticed this when I was having the shocks changed.
Is this something that needs to be addressed right away.
Or is this just a low pressure line that I can get fixes at the next service.
Obviously been there since it was built 5 years ago.
see the kink in the green brake hose in image below.

Attachment 202740
Well,
I'm by far no expert on this subject but, based on the size of the kink, and if you've experienced no adverse effects, as in poor or hard braking or slow recouping of air after braking, I'd say that kink is not causing any real air flow issues. I would get it repaired when you can. I've zoomed in on that kink and, it appears it might restrict flow by maybe 25-30% or so. All those fittings are what's called "Push-to-connect" fittings. Meaning, the way their designed, you just push the air hose into the fitting and, it's complete. No wrenches what so ever.

Some owners won't mess with them but, in reality, they're quite simple to service or, investigate. If you feel you can, with a little work, re-route that air line to alleviate that kink, it's a very simple process. All that's done is, bleed the air system down to zero psi. Your rear brakes will already be set (locked up due to the spring applied system). So, your coach ain't movin'.

Then, to get those hoses out of the fitting, all you do is this:

1. Grab the hose, semi-close to the fitting, and push it towards the fitting.
2. While keeping forward pressure on the hose, grab the little collar that's around the hose and push it also towards the fitting.
3. That will release a "barb" effect and, while holding forward pressure on that collar, your hose will now slip right out of the fitting. DONE!

Now you can re-route that hose or, install a new one, whatever you choose. When it comes time to re-connect the hose to the fitting, just push it in. DONE! There's no need to mess with the collar or any part of the fitting when connecting the hose(s). This isn't rocket science. Nor do you need to be a highly trained tech to do this. Push hose-push collar-pull hose, disconnected. Insert hose. DONE.

Scott
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:15 AM   #5
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It can wait and maybe by rotating the fitting (after you take the line off) you and reroute the line across the valve, not down and back up.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:39 AM   #6
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I think that is more a potential point of failure than an actual hindrance to operation of your air brakes or suspension. I noticed two other things--it's extremely clean under your coach! and all my air lines are inside flexible plastic conduit. I'm surprised yours aren't.
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:36 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Well,
All those fittings are what's called "Push-to-connect" fittings. Meaning, the way their designed, you just push the air hose into the fitting and, it's complete. No wrenches what so ever.

Then, to get those hoses out of the fitting, all you do is this:

1. Grab the hose, semi-close to the fitting, and push it towards the fitting.
2. While keeping forward pressure on the hose, grab the little collar that's around the hose and push it also towards the fitting.
3. That will release a "barb" effect and, while holding forward pressure on that collar, your hose will now slip right out of the fitting. DONE!

Scott
I was about to start a new thread on these "Push to Connect" fittings. Not to hijack this thread... but since it was mentioned here -

My coach is loaded with them too. Many leak a little around the swivel part of the fitting. I have been replacing the leaking fittings (mostly 5/8" and 1/4" hose) with Parker air-brake Compression fittings.

In all the Push-to-Connect fittings I have worked with (about 20 now) I have only had one come apart so that I could reuse the fitting. All the others I have had to cut the nylon hose at the fitting and use a new compression fitting.

So my question to you all is - how many of you have been able to remove the tube from one of these Push-to-Connect fittings?
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:43 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by F29DCB View Post
I noticed this when I was having the shocks changed.
Is this something that needs to be addressed right away.
Or is this just a low pressure line that I can get fixes at the next service.
Obviously been there since it was built 5 years ago.
see the kink in the green brake hose in image below.
It looks like that kinked hose attaches to the valve just above the red hose. If that is correct, I would rotate the fitting 180-degrees to face upward then have the green line come straight down into the fitting (no looping back up). That would eliminate the change in direction/kink.

Looks like you could cut about a foot off the tube (with fitting facing up as suggested above).
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:06 AM   #9
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I was about to start a new thread on these "Push to Connect" fittings. Not to hijack this thread... but since it was mentioned here -

My coach is loaded with them too. Many leak a little around the swivel part of the fitting. I have been replacing the leaking fittings (mostly 5/8" and 1/4" hose) with Parker air-brake Compression fittings.

In all the Push-to-Connect fittings I have worked with (about 20 now) I have only had one come apart so that I could reuse the fitting. All the others I have had to cut the nylon hose at the fitting and use a new compression fitting.

So my question to you all is - how many of you have been able to remove the tube from one of these Push-to-Connect fittings?
Hey Mike,
How's the bike loading thing going? As for the Push-to-connect fittings, well, I've spoken with some RV repair folks over here in town (Lake Havasu City AZ) and one of the techs is not all that happy with them. He said he's had to replace many on certain motorhome brands. But, as for me, I've had a few of mine apart for various reasons and have had zero issues.

They do get a bit stuck after they've been in place for a while (years) and can be little buggers to get apart but, I always win. Every once in a while, in my judgement, I may need to cut the tip off the tubing 'cause it looks maybe like the barb on it has worn a spot to a point that it would not re-seal if I re-inserted it without cutting a new end. So, If I have room on the hose, I chop off the tip and re-insert it.

I do have a small air leak in my coach. It's enough so that when I park it in it's cave, it will have a full system of 125 psi. But, 24 hours later, it will have about 100 psi. I've tried to zip around on my ricky-racer creeper and soap and water everything I can squirt and, have only found one tiny leak. I took care of that one but, apparently I've still got one hiding from me. Oh well, no biggie. I know, lots brag on here that they don't loose any air for weeks. Well, good for them. Trying to get a PERFECT air system on these rolling gymnasiums is in all reality, pretty darn tough.

But, so far, I've not had any real issues with any of my push to connect fittings.
Scott
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:13 AM   #10
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I think that is more a potential point of failure than an actual hindrance to operation of your air brakes or suspension. I noticed two other things--it's extremely clean under your coach! and all my air lines are inside flexible plastic conduit. I'm surprised yours aren't.
Well,
You could have a point there but, based on what the OP has stated that how long the coach has been in service, without any brake issues, and that hose has been like that, I'd say a failure or, potential failure has pretty slim chances of happening. Just a guess here. As for protecting all the air lines with corrugated split wire loom, yep, I have it on quite a bit of mine too but, primarily on my coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP, the hoses are protected with that stuff around chafing areas, edges, hard corners, other hoses/wires etc. When and where it comes to valve entrances and exits, like what the OP is showing, I also have no protective conduit.
Scott
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:04 AM   #11
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Hey Mike,
How's the bike loading thing going?
First trip was to "Sebastian Inlet State Park" last week. The bike loaded nicely. No problems. I did not put a solid stand under the frame as some suggested. I just tied down to the front forks and rear chassis. So the front forks could not move (tie down point below telescopic suspension) and the rear had a little movement if needed.

Quote:
As for the Push-to-connect fittings, well, I've spoken with some RV repair folks over here in town (Lake Havasu City AZ) and one of the techs is not all that happy with them. He said he's had to replace many on certain motorhome brands. But, as for me, I've had a few of mine apart for various reasons and have had zero issues.
Scott
Maybe your coach is newer, or you have a better technique.
I have not been able to get any of those Push-to-Connect fittings to ever release. It doesn't matter though because I'm replacing the fittings with compression fittings (it's the swivel part of the P-t-C fitting that leaks) so cutting the tube off at the old fitting is not a problem as there is plenty of slack in the tube to make up the 1/4" I cut off.
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:24 AM   #12
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I do have a small air leak in my coach. It's enough so that when I park it in it's cave, it will have a full system of 125 psi. But, 24 hours later, it will have about 100 psi. I've tried to zip around on my ricky-racer creeper and soap and water everything I can squirt and, have only found one tiny leak. I took care of that one but, apparently I've still got one hiding from me. Oh well, no biggie. I know, lots brag on here that they don't loose any air for weeks. Well, good for them. Trying to get a PERFECT air system on these rolling gymnasiums is in all reality, pretty darn tough
Had the same problem, I checked every hose, or so I thought. Finally found the leak behind the dash, the connection to the air gauge had a small leak.

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Old 05-15-2018, 12:35 PM   #13
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I carry spare double sided air line connectors in sizes that fit my coach, with some spare air hose. If I ever have a break, I can splice in a new section. Will probably never need them, but they give me piece of mind since I had to tap into mine for my Air Force One brake system.
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:45 PM   #14
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It looks like that kinked hose attaches to the valve just above the red hose. If that is correct, I would rotate the fitting 180-degrees to face upward then have the green line come straight down into the fitting (no looping back up). That would eliminate the change in direction/kink.

Looks like you could cut about a foot off the tube (with fitting facing up as suggested above).
CountryB,
You are correct. I can just shorten it.
What is the best way to drain all the air out of the lines before I disconnect the hose and cut it shorter?
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