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Old 05-01-2018, 10:23 PM   #15
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Iím with TR4, May be a check valve or purge valve at bottom of the air dryer.
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:01 AM   #16
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HI; Thanks for your help, Yes It cycles on and off,purges out the bottom of the new dryer & purge valve.Was fine when we replaced the dryer & purge valve for about a month. Now since I started up it is purging every 20 seconds or so.Hold air all nite.We installed new govenor but still does the same.My mechanic is coming tonite,thinks the line from the govenor to the side of the purge valve is bad.? Will see.This is a freightliner 2006 with a cummings ISB 300 hp Daymon RV.How do I locate the wet tank>
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:14 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackofalltra View Post
How do I locate the wet tank>
Follow the large air line from the dryer to the wet tank. You havenít answered the question, does it continually purge with the motor running and parked?

If it does, then I agree with ecurb74.

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Old 05-02-2018, 11:28 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Follow the large air line from the dryer to the wet tank. You havenít answered the question, does it continually purge with the motor running and parked?

If it does, then I agree with ecurb74.

Bill
Yes it continually purges.I installed a new purge valve kit a while back and that fixed my leak from the bottom valve, for about 2 months. Now I'm getting a short burst of air every 20 seconds from the purge valve.I found the wet tank and checked for leaks,none? Next will try to replace the 1/4" line from the governor to the purge valve and see what that does.P.S. I removed the new purge valve and inspected it and cleaned it,no change still the same,?
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:59 PM   #19
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Check all lines from the governor. Could be bad unloader valve in compressor.
Good luck!

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Old 05-02-2018, 01:16 PM   #20
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HI; My mechanic is coming tonite,thinks the line from the govenor to the side of the purge valve is bad.? >
Yup, may very well be this line that has a loose fitting or the line has been compromised.. It holds pressure at all times and when the line looses pressure, that pressure loss triggers the compressor to start back up
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:21 PM   #21
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x2 Check the Purge Valve

I had nearly the same thing happen - it turned out to be a piece of "crud" (for lack of a better term) stuck in the purge valve. It was stuck between the rubber facing on the valve and where it should be held closed by the spring. (If you replaced all of these, then I'm thinking you'll remember how it was put together without offering more explanation here).
I took the purge valve back out, cleaned it well and removed the 'crud' and have had zero problems since.
Turned out to be an easy fix for what was (to me) a real head-scratcher.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:19 PM   #22
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Replace the purge valve.
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Old 05-03-2018, 07:26 PM   #23
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Its common in some vehicles when the air compressor cycles excessively to have some engine oil coke, that is burn at the exhaust of the air compressor from overheating.

The air compressor is designed to be a 15% to 20% duty cycle. if the compressor runs more than that, the excessive overrun causes heat in the compressed air and the coking of some of the oil that leaves the compressor...

In this case, the line between the compressor and the air dryer is restricted and no matter what the governor does, it can't correctly control the compressor... or the line from the compressor to the dryer has been damaged, double wall tubing, swollen rubber hose or what ever...

Each time the compressor shuts down, the dryer cycles... Under normal conditions its a signal from the governor that shuts down the compressor and that same signal trips the dryer cycle..

On today's modern engines running hotter and hotter, its a problem that often overlooked by a technician... than you take a compressor that might sit for months at a time... maybe some moisture sits in the bore of the cylinders, and there is some rust... so the bore wears... that wear causes more and more oil usage... and the problem gets worse and worse...

ADD ANY AIR LEAKS and the compressor cycles more often than it should and now increases this problem... IF YOU DON"T have air in the morning after sitting overnight than you have leak that needs to be fixed.... that's all there is to it... a good system might be shut down with 90 psi at night and will have 80 psi in the morning... it should be that tight....
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Old 05-03-2018, 08:41 PM   #24
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Generally the air dryer will have a check valve the keep the air in the "wet" tank. When that check valve gets crud in it (or fails) the air in that tank will be part of the purge volume. When that tank pressure gets down to about 95 Psi the governor will turn the compressor back on and start the cycle all over again. The primary and secondary tanks are also protected by check valves so they don't loose pressure when that happens. Do you happed to know what model of air dryer is on the RV?
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Old 05-05-2018, 09:44 AM   #25
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IT is a Haldex 90588,I replaced it and the purge valve,worked for a week ,then I replaced the governor. Still cycles every 20 seconds, builds to 130 psi then purges.Got a 1/4" line and put air chuck on it.Plan to put air into the dryer to see if that stops it when i send 125psi into it.Can't find any leaks,tanks hold air over night to 80lbs, on front to 100 on rear.Thanks
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Old 05-05-2018, 03:32 PM   #26
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You nailed it. That was the problem,crud in check valve,cleaned & works like it should.
Thanks so much,you saved me a bundle.
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Old 05-05-2018, 03:35 PM   #27
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Smile air problem solved

Thanks to all the guys that sent me ideas,without you I could be spending
a lot of time and money on my RV. Now I'm back on the road thanks to the forum.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:19 AM   #28
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I will check the lines,as the problem has re occoured.Do you think since I by passed the dryer and plugged the 1/4" line from the governor that caused the compressor to run too
much? I ran 200 miles this way before I replaced the dryer.
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