All batteries are dead !!!!

[BCRVer]

My bounder was in storage for 10 days. It’s a 2008 36D DP that i just purchased. I used it for 2 wks on shore power and all was good. Was float charging just under 12v. I put it in storage. Turned everything off and used disconnect switch to turn off the main and auxiliary batteries. Came back after 10 days and no life at all. Coach won’t start. Gen won’t start. Can’t switch either battery back on. Not even a dull light when turning ignition !! Completely dead. We’re all my batteries weak and are now completely fried? Y would they die?

[vsheetz]

The inverter is likely direct connected to the house batteries and has a power draw even when off. Alarms are likely direct connected as well.

Floating at under 12v is low... Sounds like it may have not gone into storage with a full charge.

[twinboat]

Float charge should be 13.4 volts. Under 12 volts is a discharging battery.

A resting 12 volt battery should actually hold 12.6 volts in storage.

You may have a charger issue and due to chronic under charging, dead batteries.

Address the low voltage issue first and have the batteries tested.
If on shore power and charging at all, unplug the battery temp sensor from the inverter/charger and see if the volts increase.

[Quincy]

Originally Posted by BCRVer

My bounder was in storage for 10 days. It’s a 2008 36D DP that i just purchased. I used it for 2 wks on shore power and all was good. Was float charging just under 12v. I put it in storage. Turned everything off and used disconnect switch to turn off the main and auxiliary batteries. Came back after 10 days and no life at all. Coach won’t start. Gen won’t start. Can’t switch either battery back on. Not even a dull light when turning ignition !! Completely dead. We’re all my batteries weak and are now completely fried? Y would they die?

11.5 Volts is a dead battery, charging voltage is about 14.5 volts. If you can plug the MH in to shore power, if not, remove chassis battery, recharge and put back in, then go for a nice ride and all should be well. You can also jump the generator with the chassis battery. Good luck and keep us posted please..

[Motor7]

Consider adding a 100-150 watt solar panel on the roof and a charge controller for the house batteries to keep them topped off during storage. Confirm or add a line between the house and engine battery to keep it/them topped off too.

Even with the disconnect switches off, my coach draws almost 2amps hr parasitic.

[BCRVer]

Thanks for the replies. There is a solar panel. Coach is ten yrs old so I assume all batts are original and dead. Coach is wedged between 2 other units and no way to boost batts. I will have to remove and get tested/charged and then replace.

[Motor7]

Check the date code stamped on the side or top of the battery's....if over 5 years I'd replace.

[MRUSA14]

If you replace the batteries, you need to confirm that the charging system is working or you will ruin the new batteries. Voltage measured at the batteries should indicate approximately 14V while on shore power. 14+ while fast charging and about 13.7 when on float charge. If your readings are less than this, your new batteries may become depleted again and ruined. The cause of low charging voltage will have to be found and corrected. I would not rely on any type of solar charging because it does not work at night, in shade, when parked indoors, when covered in snow, etc.

Also, when storing without shore power, disconnect the negative terminal at the batteries. This will disconnect your inverter, alarms, and other "ghost" loads which continue to drain the battery even if every switch is turned off.

[Smitty77]

Adding to Marc's input about disconnecting the negative cable. Many add a good quality Quick Disconnect can make that a very easy process.

Will also agree that a review of your coaches charging/inverter settings, is good for two reasons: 1) Could correct bad settings!; 2) Will get you up to speed on the specific equipment in this new to you coach!

You mention solar panel? Also check into how it and it's controller interact!

If you do find they batteries are old, and time to replace, it will at least give you a good baseline for going forward. If OEM, they served a good and long life!

Once you get it all sorted out, go have a blast,
Smitty

[Edingale]

I feel your pain... I had this happen to me, too. Some good news: Your coach batteries (if deep cycle, i.e. golf cart 6V) will probably take a charge. Your starting batteries are another issue. If they are "maintenance free" type, you may or may not be able to charge them to full capacity. I found that my "maintenance free" 12V starting batteries would not accept a charge from my digital charger due to low voltage. I used an old analog charger to force a charge to get them up to 10V or higher, then used my digital charger to charge them for 2 days before they reached 100%.

[BCRVer]

UPDATE

Park owner put a charger on my chassis batts today for 5-6 hrs. Engine fired up no prob. This am there was less than 1 v. I bought new batts just in case but haven’t installed yet. I was able to move coach and plug into shore power. I have 12.63 v on main batt when I check it at the Touch Sensor panel and 12.42 v on the Aux batt.
Currently showing DC float charging at 12.6v and 11A on the Magnum Energy control panel. I remember theses voltage and float numbers being consistent since I bought the coach a month ago.
Charger is on. Inverter is off. I assume these are normal positions.
My owners manual doesn’t explain what the Magnum Energy panel options are or under what circumstances I should be changing the options.
I have 4 6v coach batts and 2 12v chassis batts. I assume both of these are for the Diesel engine. Is there another aux batt somewhere that I’m missing?

[sdennislee]

I saw in one of your posts you didn't have the manual for your Magnum settings. Here is a link to my Magnum Manual. The section on settings, Section 3, starts on page 39. Hopefully it's similar to yours. Had to share it via OneDrive, at 3.8 mb its a bit over the forums limit of 3 mb.

https://1drv.ms/b/s!AlBVNN3Ho2DfjzGKUY7l3ihtzfaS

[Forkyfork]

Make sure you top off the house batteries and check regularly if not sealed lead batteries (SLA). You can also test the fluid in the battery.

Go somewhere and have the batteries load tested so you don’t ruin your alternator. Walmart will do it and their parking lot is easier to maneuver than your local auto place.

If using a dumb charger, remember it is dumb and will boil your batteries if they are bad and won’t charge, or need to be topped off. Ask me how I know. If it happens that unplug the charger and walk away until it cools and then remove the charger.

There are several varieties of battery cut offs at harbor freight. It can also serve as theft deterrent because they will never think to check that as the reason your engine won’t start.

I have spent lots of money ruining batteries in my life. Now you are aware of how quickly they die do what you can to keep them charged when in storage. I use a charger that will bring them up if low, cycle charge them if they are drained too low and float when it’s charged. I keep mine plugged in when at home but it doesn’t charge the chassis battery. I have to use a float charger on it.

[BCRVer]

Originally Posted by sdennislee

I saw in one of your posts you didn't have the manual for your Magnum settings. Here is a link to my Magnum Manual. The section on settings, Section 3, starts on page 39. Hopefully it's similar to yours. Had to share it via OneDrive, at 3.8 mb its a bit over the forums limit of 3 mb.

https://1drv.ms/b/s!AlBVNN3Ho2DfjzGKUY7l3ihtzfaS

Thank you. I found mine online and downloaded it. MS2012