Alternator Dead

[Caliguy]

I have a 95 Safari Sahara with a 6B5.9 Cummins Engine.
Alternator is Dead. Need to find a replacement. I Don't know how many amps the original put out. Anybody know the replacement part and Amps?
I've Googled and not sure any of them are right for replacement.
Thanks for any help!

[36PFT]

Hi. Look for a rebuilder for starters and alternators in your area. Remove the alternator and take it to them. Should be less expensive than a new by a lot. Stan

[SafariBen]

A 95 Safari probably came with a Leece neville with a "DUVAC" diode battery isolator. Basically the alternator is not connected directly to either the chassis or house batteries, both go through the diode isolator, and the alternator puts out higher voltage to overcome the drop across the diodes, and is uses "remote sense" to regulate the chassis battery voltage. Any alternator with the correct mounting, pulley, and remote sense will work. This includes Delco 22,24,28SI, though remote sense may be optional on some, so double check, IF you intend to keep your isolator the same.



But back up a step. If you weren't already familiar with all of the above, how are you sure the alternator is the problem? Check the voltage at the terminals ON the ALTERNATOR is the only way to know for sure. Must have excite voltage supplied, and remote sense voltage correct for the alternator to function.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Caliguy

I have a 95 Safari Sahara with a 6B5.9 Cummins Engine.
Alternator is Dead. Need to find a replacement. I Don't know how many amps the original put out. Anybody know the replacement part and Amps?
I've Googled and not sure any of them are right for replacement.
Thanks for any help!

Caliguy,
Have you actually LOOKED at your alternator to see if it has a name plate or data plate on it? It's quite possible you have that kind of nomenclature on it.
Scott

[Caliguy]

Safari Ben,
I'm most certain Alternator is dead. I've replaced battery Isolator a few years back.

Measured starter voltage with fully charged batteries when engine is running got 12.2v
Lights are dim and dash voltage shows 11v. I'm not able to check voltage at the terminals on the alternator. Not that electrical savy.



You quoted: "Any alternator with the correct mounting, pulley, and remote sense will work. This includes Delco 22,24,28SI, though remote sense may be optional on some, so double check, IF you intend to keep your isolator the same"


Since I've changed the Isolator would the above still apply? Also what Amperage would apply?


Thanks for your help.

[Caliguy]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Caliguy,
Have you actually LOOKED at your alternator to see if it has a name plate or data plate on it? It's quite possible you have that kind of nomenclature on it.
Scott

Fire up,
Not yet going to crawl under soon and see.
Thanks.

[Caliguy]

Originally Posted by 36PFT

Hi. Look for a rebuilder for starters and alternators in your area. Remove the alternator and take it to them. Should be less expensive than a new by a lot. Stan

Thanks Stan,
That's a good possibility that I might have to do.

[twinboat]

Double check the isolator. There are instructions on line.

Look for a Duvac fuse.

[SafariBen]

What did you replace the isolator WITH? That would be a logical place to test the alternator output. But you still need to check the alternator INPUTS to see if it's working.

[Skip426]

Originally Posted by Caliguy

Fire up,
Not yet going to crawl under soon and see.
Thanks.

The image that Fire Up posted is from the top , you won't be able to see your alternator from under the coach .

[Caliguy]

Update: After testing the Alternator, which was bad as thought it was. I've located a replacement and awaiting the delivery to replace bad one.


Thank you for all your responses and Help!
Frank

[Jim_HiTek]

Check for an industrial area nearby and take it to a truck parts distributor. They can match it for you. Even better is to ask them where they get them rebuilt and take it to the rebuilder, or just buy a rebuilt one.

[d23haynes57]

When parts like this fail if you are near home or are not anxious to move this should be looked at as an opportunity. The diode block failure was due to overload, overheating. It is not a wear or time related parts failure. Most likely the alternator also suffered an early demise due to over loading. As for wear these older alternators do have brushes for the rotor, and if they are worn will prevent them from producing power. The brushes are not too difficult to inspect or replace. Brushes, rotor slip rings, and bearings are the main wear items. Windings and diode failures are overload/overheat caused failures.

For most diesels the alternator mounting is of some type of standard. Four your vintage and engine it is likely a J-180, either short or large bolt spacing. You can probably bolt in, and your wiring will support somewhere around 200 amp. With some design and upgrade work you can probably go to a 320-amp unit. This is a first step to supporting large lithium batteries and residential refrigerators. You can p-mail me if you want some assistance with this endeavor.

Dennis-vw-service@outlook.com