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Old 09-22-2021, 07:58 AM   #1
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Alternator failed

If so I have a 2001 holiday Rambler endeavor Diesel pusher, and the original alternator failed. I had it replaced, and within hours the new alternator failed as well. Thinking it was a faulty alternator it too was replaced with a new alternator and that 1 failed as well. Has anyone experienced this type of condition and if so how was it resolved? I'm scrambling for help here since I'm due to leave on Friday morning for a 2 week Western US Western US RV trip. The diesel shop is still trying to diagnose the issue, but I'm looking for backup assistance and support for how to resolve the issue.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:03 AM   #2
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Are they failing by not producing electricity?


Bearing failure? If so, particularly if along with some belt wear, replace the belt automatic tensioner.



Other?


Much harder on alternators if asked to put out maximum output for long periods of time. So, NOT using them to charge deeply discharged batteries is better for them.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:11 AM   #3
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Yes, failing by not producing electricity.

A new belt was installed when the alternator was replaced, so that is new. The tensioner was not replaced, but did not look like it was loose or "wobbly". I did replace the four (4) house batteries with higher amp hour batteries about 2 weeks before the alternator failed, but I cannot believe that has anything to do with this issue.

Is there a relay, fuse, or some other type of inline electrical item that could cause the alternator to fail?
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:13 AM   #4
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If I cannot get the alternator working, would any harm be done to the diesel engine if I were to run it with a bad alternator?

I could use standard battery chargers to charge the starting batteries while running the coach to be sure they always have sufficient charge to allow me to continually start the engine.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:16 AM   #5
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Yes, failing by not producing electricity.


Is there a relay, fuse, or some other type of inline electrical item that could cause the alternator to fail?

Do you have a solenoid-based battery isolator or diode-based battery isolator? They CAN fail and same symptoms as bad alternator-- one or both battery banks do not charge.


Check for power between alternator B+ and good ground. Then check at the battery isolator. Start at the large-gauge wire from the Alternator B+ terminal.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:25 AM   #6
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I would go back to the new batteries and check each for "polarity" and voltage.


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Old 09-22-2021, 12:14 PM   #7
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Apparently the shop installed a direct "exact match" alternator and now has it working.

Prior to this, how I noticed the alternator was having issues was the "Alt Charge" light on the dash was on and the voltage gauge on the dash was at 12v when the coach was running.

Usually the dash voltage gauge is reading near 14v when the coach is running.

I hope the replacement alternator holds.

With regards to the question about "solenoid-based battery isolator or diode-based battery isolator"; I'm not sure. How would I identify this?
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Old 09-22-2021, 12:18 PM   #8
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.

With regards to the question about "solenoid-based battery isolator or diode-based battery isolator"; I'm not sure. How would I identify this?

Follow that large-gauge cable from the alternator B+ terminal.
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Old 09-22-2021, 12:21 PM   #9
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I have a 2001 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with the Cummins ISC330 engine.

I believe there are two large cables on the back of the alternator, but will see if I can see where they go in the event this alternator fails or stops working (sending volts to dash gauge) and triggers "Alt Charge" warning light on dash.
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Old 09-22-2021, 01:54 PM   #10
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Apparently the shop installed a direct "exact match" alternator and now has it working.



Prior to this, how I noticed the alternator was having issues was the "Alt Charge" light on the dash was on and the voltage gauge on the dash was at 12v when the coach was running.



Usually the dash voltage gauge is reading near 14v when the coach is running.



I hope the replacement alternator holds.



With regards to the question about "solenoid-based battery isolator or diode-based battery isolator"; I'm not sure. How would I identify this?
Your shop was installing standard alternators. They are fine in more modern RVs.

You need a Duvac alternator, built for dual battery systems in anything before 2004ish.

It seems that they figured that out and you should be fine now.

Keep that in mind if you have future charging issues.
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Old 09-23-2021, 03:05 AM   #11
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The shop replace the alternator with an exact make/model match and alt seems to work fine. I ran it for 30 miles and no issue; however my last alternator lasted maybe 150 miles before failing, so I have my fingers crossed that it will hold for my 2-week trip.
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Old 09-23-2021, 05:26 AM   #12
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Some of the the newer style alternators can be installed like Delco 28si but need to change some wiring there are many posts with links, explanation, pics and diagrams. Do you still have any of these alternators left over or did you use each as core exchange.
Owners had Dulvac alt. rebuilt and saved as spare to make change back to Dulvac wiring if modern alt. failed.
You could have modern alt. tested learn how to make change over if this one goes out in future.
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