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Old 06-29-2021, 10:30 PM   #85
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Great job!

There's a certain pleasure in repairing your existing parts yourself that can't be experienced any other way.

You made the right choice!
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Old 06-30-2021, 05:56 AM   #86
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Watch some videos on someone skimming a panel with filler to get large panel perfectly straight rather than a big dent. You can knock the sticky top layer and ridges off with a sander . Stick to a block and 12" push board by hand. When you run into high spots tap them in with body pointy hammer. Best to have handle off to straighten if its bent there or around/ near it. Figure to have at filler 4" around most damage. I would probably skim most of damaged panel and work back from the hinge ,but I did it for 10 yrs or so and learned from more experienced folks as well.
It's white and stripes will break up the visual of straightness. It won't need to be perfect to look great. You will see your flaws no one else will ever notice.
You know about body work vinyl paint stripe tape already right .
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Old 06-30-2021, 06:16 AM   #87
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I have lots of research to do before I start body filler but this sounds like a solid plan. I think I will get it. I have to put all the fiberglass back together first, I'll have filler work to do on those parts too. So you have a good suggestion for adhesive that bonds well to fiberglass? I've used Plexus in a past life quite a bit but that was specific to bonding metal to fiberglass.

Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated!
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Old 06-30-2021, 11:41 PM   #88
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I have lots of research to do before I start body filler but this sounds like a solid plan. I think I will get it. I have to put all the fiberglass back together first, I'll have filler work to do on those parts too. So you have a good suggestion for adhesive that bonds well to fiberglass? I've used Plexus in a past life quite a bit but that was specific to bonding metal to fiberglass.

Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated!
3M Structural adhesive. Available at any body shop supply store.
What are you using the adhesive for? Note that's not "body plastic" to fill holes / dips.

Looks like your are doing a nice job!
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Old 07-01-2021, 06:32 AM   #89
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I have lots of research to do before I start body filler but this sounds like a solid plan. I think I will get it. I have to put all the fiberglass back together first, I'll have filler work to do on those parts too. So you have a good suggestion for adhesive that bonds well to fiberglass? I've used Plexus in a past life quite a bit but that was specific to bonding metal to fiberglass.

Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated!
3M's 5200 is what is heavily used in the marine world and I can attest it is strong.

On my cousin's Signature when his fiberglass door's outer panel become disbonded I used some 3M 8115 epoxy. This is a panel bonding adhesive that works on steel, aluminum and fiberglass/SMC. What I liked about this product is that it had small beads of crushed glass in it that acted like spacers to avoid displacing all of the adhesive when clamped in place. I repaired his door about 12 years ago and it is still holding solid.
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Old 07-01-2021, 10:03 AM   #90
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3M Structural adhesive. Available at any body shop supply store.
What are you using the adhesive for? Note that's not "body plastic" to fill holes / dips.

Looks like your are doing a nice job!
I need to rebond support brackets that tie back to the framing from the fiberglass and the headlight mounting brackets were glued into place as well. I am sure that is so you can shim and fine tune alignment and let glue set as opposed to having to get the fiberglass mold absolutely perfect for headlight alignment.
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Old 07-01-2021, 10:04 AM   #91
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3M's 5200 is what is heavily used in the marine world and I can attest it is strong.

On my cousin's Signature when his fiberglass door's outer panel become disbonded I used some 3M 8115 epoxy. This is a panel bonding adhesive that works on steel, aluminum and fiberglass/SMC. What I liked about this product is that it had small beads of crushed glass in it that acted like spacers to avoid displacing all of the adhesive when clamped in place. I repaired his door about 12 years ago and it is still holding solid.
I will look into these products. Appreciate the feedback!!
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Old 07-01-2021, 02:09 PM   #92
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I used Loctite 380 Black Max to bond small brackets to aluminum. It's pricey but very good stuff.
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Old 07-18-2021, 08:42 PM   #93
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It dawned on me I never posted an update after our first trip! Took it up north about 3 hrs away over the 4th. Door and steps worked great, wasn't even loud going down the road. Weatherstrip must be doing its job! I rigged a new temp headlight up so we would at least be legal with a turn signal too.

She drove really nice, very happy with how it handled. It tracks like a dream, I can literally take my hands off the wheel (not for long for safety of course) and could drive with one finger if I want. SO much better than the HR Navigator I sold.

I am just slammed these days with work and now playoff baseball/softball with the kids. I help coach both teams. The bodywork rebuild is a little delayed. Busy next weekend then going to hit the road for 10 days! I'm just going to drive it with the fiberglass missing, who cares for now. I'd rather be putting miles on than working on it during prime summer days anyway. 8)

I do need to get some tires. I'm torn, just steers and wait for drives till next year or all at once. They are 7 year old but look mint. Not one single check anywhere. I'd swear they were less than 2 years old. For sure want to do the steers...actually just typing this out I think I've decided. All new tires. It's not worth the risk.

I'll try to post some more updates soon
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Old 07-18-2021, 10:53 PM   #94
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Not just 'crazy', but certifiably whack.
.
OK, that was harsh.
.
We delivered RecreationVehicles manufacturer-to-dealer and dealer-to-shows.
We compressed a few decades of RecreationVehicle experience into a couple years and a hundred thousand miles.
.
In my experience walking the assembly floor of a lot of manufacturers -- including BillionBuxBus conversions --RecreationVehicles are engineered as a complete structure.
Any compromise to any part of the house-box warps the integrity of each seam and every seal on the rig.
.
One of my (milder) hobbies is walking wrecking-yards (aka 'dismantlers').
I see the results of minor impact to an already barely-hanging-in-there vehicle crippled by traveling in an earthquake plus hurricane plus rioters plus a never-ending series of drenchings from high-pressure fire-hoses.
.
I said this, and I will keep saying this:
* RecreationVehicles are assembled to a price purchasers are willing to pay
If manufacturers exceed the perceived market value -- irregardless of quality -- purchasers will buy the cheaper unit next door.
.
This is not a punch at manufacturers.
Buyers shop with their eyes, and rarely crawl under the rig to inspect the structure and utilities.
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Old 07-20-2021, 08:34 AM   #95
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Well apparently Toyo are hard to get right now. I ended up having to order my set and have them shipped to my local shop. I decided on 295/75/22.5- G Toyo M154.

All 6 installed with freight $3400. Not a killer deal but fair.

I'm thinking of putting beads in all of them, what do you all do? Beads in front, nothing in back is what my shop says most RVs do. That seems crazy to not balance the rears but maybe that's normal??
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Old 07-20-2021, 09:21 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbluesky View Post
Well apparently Toyo are hard to get right now. I ended up having to order my set and have them shipped to my local shop. I decided on 295/75/22.5- G Toyo M154.

All 6 installed with freight $3400. Not a killer deal but fair.

I'm thinking of putting beads in all of them, what do you all do? Beads in front, nothing in back is what my shop says most RVs do. That seems crazy to not balance the rears but maybe that's normal??

A few weeks ago I had to wait about a week to get my 22.5" Toyos. Pricing was about $200 less than yours for 265/75R225 M154 installed.

I believe in balancing all axles, including all of my trailers.

One option is Centramatic On-board Wheel Balancers on all axles. A PO had them installed on my coach. While changing my tires, the tire guy simply removed the balancing disc from each wheel, rotated them next to his ear, and listened to hear if the "sand" inside was still working. ("sand" was his word.) Then, he placed them back on. On my coach, one disc goes in-between the duals and one before the front wheel gets mounted. That makes a total of 4 discs, one pair per axle. It literally only takes a couple of seconds to remove and replace.

If you do a search right here on iRV2 for "centramatic" you will find lots of feedback about them. Here is one informative discussion: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/cent...on-261207.html

I believe the cost is under $200 per axle. This is a one-time cost and will last for many years and sets of tires.
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Old 07-20-2021, 09:26 AM   #97
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I'm thinking of putting beads in all of them, what do you all do? Beads in front, nothing in back is what my shop says most RVs do. That seems crazy to not balance the rears but maybe that's normal??
I run beads in all six. Seems to work well and inexpensive enough.
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Old 07-20-2021, 01:47 PM   #98
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Think I will go beads in all 6. Can't hurt, only $15 a tire.

Just ordered the Tire tracker Tt-600 tpms too! I've wanted one for awhile. New tires, new coach, cheap insurance!
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