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07-12-2019, 01:47 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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ANOTHER, no 12 volt lights from coach battery
I have read advice on the internet and have read forums. I have searched and watched videos. I still have no 12 volt lights from my new coach deep cell battery. I have jumped the relay with a large gauge wire, and still nothing. I have an 88 holiday imperial rambler 34ft. I am so tired of trying and not getting anywhere. I have had this MH for 3 month and cant figure it out. The last owners said they worked, but I think they meant with the generator running. I might want to boondock and would like this to work. I have been concentrating on the coach battery and relay. Does the chassis battery, relay and solenoid have anything to do with this??
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07-12-2019, 01:55 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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There may be a fuse or breaker between the relay, your jumping, and the battery.
Most battery feed cables are required to have them, offen within a foot or two of the battery.
Follow the house battery cable and see if you can find one.
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07-12-2019, 02:01 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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So will the house battery wires go back to the inverter? With the fuses and the circuit breakers?
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07-12-2019, 02:30 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyfettes
So will the house battery wires go back to the inverter? With the fuses and the circuit breakers?
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Yes, follow the house battery positive cable. There will be a fuse or breaker near the batteries.
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07-12-2019, 02:43 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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I called it an inverter, I think it is a transfer switch, then the circuit breakers then the fuse box. I will crawl under and start that search....
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07-12-2019, 02:48 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 1,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyfettes
I have read advice on the internet and have read forums. I have searched and watched videos. I still have no 12 volt lights from my new coach deep cell battery. I have jumped the relay with a large gauge wire, and still nothing. I have an 88 holiday imperial rambler 34ft. I am so tired of trying and not getting anywhere. I have had this MH for 3 month and cant figure it out. The last owners said they worked, but I think they meant with the generator running. I might want to boondock and would like this to work. I have been concentrating on the coach battery and relay. Does the chassis battery, relay and solenoid have anything to do with this??
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I can't help you on the 88 Holiday Rambler, but two things would help...
Give the chassis info and your location.
For example, my coach is a Fleetwood Southwind built on a Chevy P30 chassis - a very common truck chassis. In my rebuild efforts I've had more help from truck mechanics than RV techs (but then again most of my problems have been chassis issues).
And your location would be useful in case a reader is geographically close to you and wants to help.
I'm in the Los Angeles area and if you were local I'd have no problems driving over and spending several hours helping you troubleshoot.
Personal example: I posted a plea for help just like you did, and didn't mention where I was... but a reader recognized my ham radio callsign. He looked me up, drove over to my place, and spent several hours on a saturday helping me get my alternator working (I still don't understand why Fleetwood put a Ford voltage regulator into a Chevy based motor home). All he said was "Pay it forward, do someone else a favor".
__________________
Semi-retired technogeek...electronics / computer / 2-way / ham radio... WA6ILQ (45+years)
1985 Fleetwood 32' Southwind (Chev P30/454/TH400), dubbed "Lazarus" by friends... I resurrected it from the dead...
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07-12-2019, 03:06 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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Thanks. I am in Moline Illinois. It is a Chevy p30 chassis.
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07-12-2019, 03:06 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyfettes
I called it an inverter, I think it is a transfer switch, then the circuit breakers then the fuse box. I will crawl under and start that search....
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It has nothing to do with the shore cord transfer switch or main breaker box.
I'm talking about 12 volt battery cables.
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07-12-2019, 03:33 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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So what is the line of action? I have it plugged in and everything works. I unplug it and lights and outlets dont work. So what has to happen for it to switch over to battery power? I have the Intellitc BD2 switch and it shows both batteries on. Should it do it automatically? Does it have to go through the transfer switch? I hear nothing at the transfer switch when plugged in and unplugged.
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07-12-2019, 03:43 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,807
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While plugged in your converter is supplying 12 VDC to the DC buss which should be supplying your lights assuming thay are DC as in most RVs. When you unplug from SP there is no "switching over", your 120 VAC outlts will not work and the house batteries should continue supplying the DC buss (and lights) unless there is a disconnect between the house batteries and the DC buss such as a "Salesman switch" solenoid or a tripped DC breaker.
Does your refrigerator and furnace work when unplugged from SP? Water pump?
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07-12-2019, 03:50 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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Yes, the fridge, stove and water pump have power when unplugged from SP. I appreciate everyones help.
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07-12-2019, 04:27 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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Just used my volt meter on the dc bus by the relay and the coach battery. All the terminals read 12.46 except the one labeled converter. That one reads .646. Could that be it?? Super excited if it is...
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07-12-2019, 04:57 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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And there probably shouldn't be that black gunk on the sides of the metal strip. Melted? Someone tried to repair before??
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07-13-2019, 01:18 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 45
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Super Excited. I jumped from the positive of the battery to the wire going to that rusted terminal end. I have 12V in the house!!! So I will buy a new junction terminal. Does it matter what amp? I see some are 100 and some 150. Would higher be better? And maybe one with extra terminals so I can add things on later? I have literally been struggling to make this happen for over 3 weeks.
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