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Old 03-08-2022, 02:00 PM   #1
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Are there three methods to Winterizing ??

I have read three methods of winterizing:
1. Use the winterizing connection to connect to antifreeze, use the pump to fill the lines with antifreeze. (Open each outlet until antifreeze flows.)

2. Connect an air adaptor to the winterizing connection and blow out the lines. (Ditto open each outlet until water stops and air starts.)
3. Lay the outside shower on the ground on in a bucket, open the drain valve, and open all faucets until water stops flowing from the shower head.

Do they all work?
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:03 PM   #2
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I do a combination of 1&2 for the best protection.
1st blow out all the lines then pump antifreeze through.

#3 sounds like a problem that will leave you with busted lines if it freezes.
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:12 PM   #3
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Like SPK64, I'll stick to 1&2 and forget 3. That looks like a major whoopsie in the making.
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:16 PM   #4
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#2 and particularly #3 will leave water in the toilet flush line that goes from the foot flush valve to the tim of the toilet. That water if not completely drained will sit in the flush valve, freeze and break it.

If you blow air at a good rate through that line you probably will get it all, but you sure won't just by letting the water drain out through the external shower head.

I use a variation of #1 as I drain the hot and cold water lines using their low point drains first. That gets 90% of the water out before pumping antifreeze through and saves a bit of antifreeze.

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Old 03-08-2022, 02:28 PM   #5
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I have not heard of #3, might be RV specific.

I have not used #2. I am sure it works fine but a regular air-compressor does not have filtered air. It "could" introduce contaminates into your water lines. It is not a high risk, but not one that is worth it to me. Keep in mind that it will take a high volume compressor to do this right.

I live in super freezing weather and I have a 40' toy hauler. I drain and bypass my water heater, drain my main tank and then open the low point drains. After that I use the winterizing valve (not all units have this) and fill the RV with anti-freeze making sure to fill the drain traps and leave a bit in the toilet to keep the seal moist. This process uses 2 gallons of antifreeze for my unit.
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:29 PM   #6
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Here is what I do:
1) Open the water holding tank drain to let out any water in tanks.
2) Remove drain plug (or open) from the hot water tank.
3) Very important: Remove the water facet screens and ends that hold the screens. If you don't and you blow air through the lines, hard water debris can plug them, causing you to damage the water faucets. Been there and done it. Replacing faucets cause swearing and use of band aids.
Number one cause of faucet failure in an RVs
4. You should have a by pass on your water tank. Turn off the lines in which water could run into the hot water tank.
5. Open the farthest faucet from where you are blowing, then open the second, then the third etc. Do the same i shower and toilet. Keep blowing air until no moisture is coming out.
6.If you have a water filter, empty the water from it.
7) Because I am in real cold winter climate. I then pump RV antifreeze through the water pump. I have a special hose that connects into the water pump and into the container of Antifreeze. Open one faucet at a time and wait until Antifreeze appears. Do this with each faucet.
8) I again blow the lines out with air. (May not be required) but I do it because we get super cold weather.
I again remove the water filter container and clear and Antifreeze out.
Buy blowing out the Antifreeze you don't get the bad taste that you may get leaving Antifreeze in your lines.
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:38 PM   #7
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I agree with fishcamp except I don't blow out the lines a second time. I take care of the hot water tank first (valves and drain). Then blow out all the lines followed by pumping RV antifreeze through the lines. Also, if you have water in your fresh water tank, you want to drain it first to avoid any possible problems. If there is some water in the tank and adequate room for expansion, the freezing of some water shouldn't be a problem, but there's no guarantees.

I've never dealt with it, but if you have a washing machine, ice maker or dishwasher, you need to follow any winterizing procedures for them.
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Old 03-08-2022, 06:01 PM   #8
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Air don't freeze. Also costs nothing other than your compressor and like 8 bones for the adapter (mine is the regulator type so you can't mess up)
This is a slightly religious topic but I have my opinion, carefully honed after a quarter century of precise refinement. Also I've gotten so fast I don't make it through a bottle of wine. More like a glass.
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Old 03-08-2022, 06:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nwcid View Post
I have not heard of #3, might be RV specific.

I have not used #2. I am sure it works fine but a regular air-compressor does not have filtered air. It "could" introduce contaminates into your water lines. It is not a high risk, but not one that is worth it to me. Keep in mind that it will take a high volume compressor to do this right.

I live in super freezing weather and I have a 40' toy hauler. I drain and bypass my water heater, drain my main tank and then open the low point drains. After that I use the winterizing valve (not all units have this) and fill the RV with anti-freeze making sure to fill the drain traps and leave a bit in the toilet to keep the seal moist. This process uses 2 gallons of antifreeze for my unit.
"It "could" introduce contaminates into your water lines."

Seriously ? Have you ever read the ingredients of RV anti freeze ? I'll take my chances on air. And sir, literally any air compressor can do it. You only need like 30 lbs.
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Old 03-08-2022, 07:01 PM   #10
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After blowing your lines out with air, don’t forget to reset the compressor when you go to fill your tires…couldn’t believe how long it was taking me to add 2 Psi…duh!
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Old 03-09-2022, 07:15 AM   #11
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Another thing to keep in mind on how you choose to winterize will be based on the specific equipment you have installed on your coach... For instance, if you have an AquaHot system, then you are required to use antifreeze. You cannot just depend on using the blowout with air method.
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Old 03-09-2022, 07:33 AM   #12
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I've never seen the point of blowing it out AND filling the lines with antifreeze. I feel like when I'm pumping antifreeze through the lines I'm displacing the water anyway -- same end result.

I definitely wouldn't trust using the outdoor shower to drain the lines. There could easily be low points inside that don't drain. Actually, our outdoor shower is higher than the toilet connections anyway. You should have a low-point drain somewhere that's designed for the purpose.
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Old 03-09-2022, 07:37 AM   #13
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Blow the water lines and leave the heat on low (60F).

We use the RV on some of the nicer winter weekends just to get out of the house and I'm too lazy to pump in the pink stuff then flush it out for a long weekend of doing nothing at the lake then re-pump the lines with pink stuff. DW will step into the campground bath facilities only in extreme and dire emergency.
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Old 03-09-2022, 07:40 AM   #14
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Use 1 and 2 and replace #3 with the preferred method.
#3...Head south to avoid freezing weather.

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