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Old 07-03-2022, 05:51 AM   #1
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Question Assessing generator remote start

I have a propane powered Generac NP-66G from 1993 in my motorhome. There are three remote start buttons in the motorhome, they are all a single momentary hold switch which will both start and stop the generator. There is also a two way momentary hold switch on the generator which will start and stop it (i.e., the switch has START and STOP as up and down on the same switch, unlike the remote start).

Both methods used to start the generator fine, until it didn't. One day, all three remote start buttons stopped functioning. I noticed a bunch of water in the GEN SET 2 MONOPLEX circuit board box. I assumed this was the issue, since the generator will still start using the button the gen itself.

On the generator, there is a plug which wires into the board. This plug has four wires: ground, crank, engine run signal, and stop. I suppose before diagnosing the board, I might want to try to send 12 volts through the crank wire and see if it starts that way. If it does then I can eliminate the generator wiring itself.

From there, I will test to see if the circuit board itself is getting 12v. If it is, then I can check the three interior remote start switches to see if they are passing 12v through them to the board? This part I don't really get since I don't quite understand how the remote switches are wired to the board.

And if that is working okay, I can then check the plug which plugs into the generator from the circuit board to see if the 12v is passing to it. If not, then maybe the board itself is fried.

Am I on the right track in terms of diagnosing?

The strange part is this: my motorhome has two roof ACs. They used to both work when the generator was running. Once the remote start stopped working, only one AC would work at a time. In my motorhome, there is an Intellitec ENERGY MANAGEMENT UNIT 2 (EMU2). I am almost certain this device is only used to help power the AC units: https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/medi...MU2-Manual.pdf

Here is my theory: the generator itself works because the batteries are charging, the 120v outlets work, the ACs turn on (albeit separately, not at the same time). This EMU2 unit is likely receiving the 120 volts to it, and then sending that power to the AC units separately, one at a time. What I think is happening is that the 12 volt signal which is supposed to be sent from the generator as ENGINE RUN SIGNAL is not making its way to the EMU2. The motorhome does not actually "know" the generator is on. It just happens to be getting power from the gen, the power switch switches to the gen (as opposed to shore power), the EMU2 gets 120v from the gen so it can power a single AC unit, but the EMU2 is not getting that last little signal from the gen's ENGINE RUN SIGNAL.

Either the generator is not sending the signal, or the generator does send the signal to the circuit board, but the circuit board is fried and it does not further send this signal anywhere else.

Sorry about the excessive details, but they may be important. I'm going to try and diagnose what I mentioned above, but if anyone else has any input (or has experienced this before), it is appreciated.
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Old 07-03-2022, 06:38 AM   #2
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It sounds like you have thought it out and have a logical plan of attack.

Kudos to you for supplying lots of details about the job at hand.
Too often I see posts such as “my rv quit working. What do you think is wrong?”
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Old 07-03-2022, 08:01 AM   #3
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If only one AC at a time works seems like load shedding where it thinks it on 30A.
Owners found ACs disabled by EMS after having random non air cond. breakers shut off. EMS tapped into two breakers ,to monitor each leg voltage.
Maybe board is doing similar???? Is it only happening with generator or plugged in.
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Old 07-03-2022, 08:47 AM   #4
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For the AC units. If you have an electric water heater and propane fridge. Try switching them to propane.

I have a 50 amp MH, I can run my two AC units on 30 amps, if I run the water heater and fridge on propane.

I actually turn off the water heater and flip on the propane switch about 1/2 hour before meals and showers.
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Old 07-03-2022, 09:13 AM   #5
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For the AC units. If you have an electric water heater and propane fridge. Try switching them to propane.

I have a 50 amp MH, I can run my two AC units on 30 amps, if I run the water heater and fridge on propane.

I actually turn off the water heater and flip on the propane switch about 1/2 hour before meals and showers.
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Old 07-05-2022, 09:33 PM   #6
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Tried some diagnosing today, but didn't have much time. On top of that, my multimeter test leads broke apart, so I had a hard time testing voltages as I only had two hands (and no time to solder it back together). In addition, the 12v wire came loose from the connector which plugs into the MONOPLEX board, so now I will have to try and jam that back in.

On the generator there is a plug which has four pins on it, GROUND, CRANK, RUNNING LIGHT, and STOP. This plug somehow connects to the GENSET 2 MONOPLEX control circuit board, which has similar pins on it, along with a few others (CONTROL, 12v, etc.). The board is getting a ground and 12v successfully as I tested that.

This is what I did, and the results that followed:

I started the gen using the regular start switch on the gen itself, which has always worked. I then tested the GROUND and LIGHT from the 4 pin connector on the gen, and I got about 13.5 volts. So the gen itself is sending an ON signal to the monoplex control board.

I then plugged in the 4 pin connector, unplugged the connector from the monoplex board, and tried to short that 12V signal (again, which normally connects to the monoplex board) to the START pin on the connector which connects to the monoplex board. Nothing happened.

I removed the 4 pin connector and then tried to put the 12v wire (going to the monoplex board) into the START pin of the 4 pin connector. Nothing happened. I also grounded the GROUND pin of the 4 pin connector, and tried to apply the 12v to the START pin of the 4 pin connector. Again, nothing.

I then started the generator, and tried to apply 12v to the STOP pin of the 4 pin connector, nothing happened. I also did the same with the ground pin grounded. Nothing. I might have blown the generator control panel fuse at this point, I don't remember (unfortunately).

Then, with the generator OFF, I accidentally applied 12v to the LIGHT pin of the 4 pin connector. When I did that, the propane solenoid opened. Don't really get why that would happen.

Then, with the generator OFF, I applied 12v to the STOP pin of the 4 pin connector. The generator control fuse blew again. When I press the STOP button on the START/STOP switch on the gen itself, the fuse does not blow.

I don't remember if I tested the LIGHT pin on the MONOPLEX board. I want to say I did, but I was getting pretty stressed as I wanted to help my family out with dinner, and we are packing for a camping trip tomorrow morning. So this one I will try again when I have time.

So if you've read this far, my observation is that I cannot start it even using the 4 pins for the remote control on the generator itself. But the LIGHT signal pin works fine on this 4 pin remote plug. As much as I understand the onboard generator's remote plug might be broken, I don't know why the LIGHT and GROUND pins work, but not CRANK and STOP. Am I attempting to start and stop the gen using the remote pins correctly? If not, what am I doing wrong? If so, does this mean the internal wiring is messed up for these 4 pins? I tried to look inside, but it's a crazy jumble of wires and I can't quite see where each pin leads to.
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Old 07-07-2022, 06:56 AM   #7
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See attached image of the plug at the generator which controls remote start. Maybe I'm doing this wrong. How can I test if the remote start on the gen is working at all? I thought I was supposed to pass 12v through the crank wire. Am I supposed to short two wires?
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Old 07-07-2022, 06:12 PM   #8
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Be careful messing with the 12 volts on the generator control system. It is an isolated voltage created by the control board, as is the ground. The remote switches, switch ground to start/stop the generator. The control positive voltage is for the hour meter and bulb in the remote stitches. In your picture it would be wire 17 to ground to crank and wire 18 to ground to stop. Typically the 4 pin plug is the problem with the remote switches. I use an ice pick to expand the male pins, to create a better contact.

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Old 07-09-2022, 07:43 PM   #9
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Thank you, I shorted the generator ground and the crank, and it started. Went to the next step and shorted the ground and start on the monoplex control board, and it also started. I am not quite sure how this is wired up. Shorting the board itself starts the gen, but the button in the motorhome does not. The button, though, is only a momentary button which does both on and off. So is it likely the relays or resistors in the board which are fried, and thus not allowing the inside button to control it? I'm lost here...
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