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Old 09-25-2021, 04:22 PM   #1
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Atwood 6gal Gas Water Heater

My hot water heater was working just fine before heading into the mountains, then I tried to light it at 7000 feet elevation (Williams Arizona). Now at 2000 feet elevation (Las Vegas) it won't light. I replaced the thermal fuse and the 2 amp fuse and I still can't get it to light. Anyone ever experience this?
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Old 09-25-2021, 04:28 PM   #2
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Could be your spark probe...or eco. Check to see the 2 prongs are properly spaced and clean inside the burner tube...and that the ECO, or wires to your ECO and board are OK.. that all I can offer!
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Old 09-25-2021, 07:46 PM   #3
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Key questions.

Do you hear the “tick, tick, tick” of the igniter?
Do you hear the “click” of the gas valve opening?

The answers to those two questions will decide the direction of the troubleshooting.
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Old 09-25-2021, 09:01 PM   #4
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1997 Vintage......
time for new spark electrode or possibly new circuit board


Voltmeter... is your friend

Atwood **potted circuit boards can be tested using amulti-meter.
This test must be performed with the circuit board removed, and the meter set to the ohms scale.
This will check the continuity of all tracks on the harness connection of the board

TO TEST POWER TRACK:
Place negative lead of the multi-meter to ground (green wire) track of edge connection and positive lead of the multi-meter to top power (brown wire) track of edge connection.
If no continuity, board is defective

TO TEST VALVE TRACK:
Place negative lead of the multi-meter to ground (green wire) track of edge connection and positive lead of the multi-meter to valve (red wire) track of edge connection.
If no continuity, this indicates a blown valve track.


FYI:
Bad Thermal Fuse -----Nothing will work/Shuts off DC from T-stat to circuit board
Bad 2A fuse........Nothing will work/shuts down ALL DC on circuit board
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Old 09-25-2021, 10:22 PM   #5
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Did you check that you did not have a blocked gas orifice? Next do you have AC option for your water heater. I have both gas and electric. Nether worked and it turned out to be a relay. No power to the water heater. I did a quick work around and put a fused jumper from the battery to the gas input of the connector. You can use gas or electric. Use the data sheet for your model water heater. Don't be surprised that it will light up almost instantly. I replace the relay when I got home.
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Old 09-25-2021, 11:35 PM   #6
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Thankyou

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thewellz View Post
Could be your spark probe...or eco. Check to see the 2 prongs are properly spaced and clean inside the burner tube...and that the ECO, or wires to your ECO and board are OK.. that all I can offer!
Will do
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Old 09-25-2021, 11:37 PM   #7
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Yes and Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330 View Post
Key questions.

Do you hear the “tick, tick, tick” of the igniter?
Do you hear the “click” of the gas valve opening?

The answers to those two questions will decide the direction of the troubleshooting.
It clicks and tries to ignite. It even ignited one time but I cannot get it to reignite.
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Old 09-25-2021, 11:38 PM   #8
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by mlpeloquin View Post
Did you check that you did not have a blocked gas orifice? Next do you have AC option for your water heater. I have both gas and electric. Nether worked and it turned out to be a relay. No power to the water heater. I did a quick work around and put a fused jumper from the battery to the gas input of the connector. You can use gas or electric. Use the data sheet for your model water heater. Don't be surprised that it will light up almost instantly. I replace the relay when I got home.
It's gas only.
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Old 09-25-2021, 11:41 PM   #9
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Thankyou

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
1997 Vintage......
time for new spark electrode or possibly new circuit board


Voltmeter... is your friend

Atwood **potted circuit boards can be tested using amulti-meter.
This test must be performed with the circuit board removed, and the meter set to the ohms scale.
This will check the continuity of all tracks on the harness connection of the board

TO TEST POWER TRACK:
Place negative lead of the multi-meter to ground (green wire) track of edge connection and positive lead of the multi-meter to top power (brown wire) track of edge connection.
If no continuity, board is defective

TO TEST VALVE TRACK:
Place negative lead of the multi-meter to ground (green wire) track of edge connection and positive lead of the multi-meter to valve (red wire) track of edge connection.
If no continuity, this indicates a blown valve track.


FYI:
Bad Thermal Fuse -----Nothing will work/Shuts off DC from T-stat to circuit board
Bad 2A fuse........Nothing will work/shuts down ALL DC on circuit board
I replaced the thermal fuse and got it to ignite and burn. But after I shut it off I was unable to reignite it.
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Old 09-26-2021, 10:34 AM   #10
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Spark electrode fires....CLICK CLICK CLICK

So question now is....does gas valve OPEN
*Solenoids get energized...have 12VDC
BOTH have to work for valve to open

Dirty orifice/dirty burner/dirty electrode....propane is only 0.4psi (11"WC) and air/fuel ratio is very narrow inorder for gas to ignite
*Orifice...soak in alcohol to clean...NO POKING/HIGH AIR PRESSURE!!
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Old 09-26-2021, 06:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Spark electrode fires....CLICK CLICK CLICK

So question now is....does gas valve OPEN
*Solenoids get energized...have 12VDC
BOTH have to work for valve to open

Dirty orifice/dirty burner/dirty electrode....propane is only 0.4psi (11"WC) and air/fuel ratio is very narrow inorder for gas to ignite
*Orifice...soak in alcohol to clean...NO POKING/HIGH AIR PRESSURE!!
Will give it a shot, thanks.
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