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Old 10-11-2022, 02:58 PM   #1
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Atwood 8535-III burner NLA, what are you guys doing to replace them?

Mine works but has a crack in the mesh so I want to replace it. Seems for some stupid reason it's no longer available. I cannot see this not having a superseded part as fragile as these seem to be. Anyone know if it was? I see no documented info on that.

PN is 32811

Thanks
Dave
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Old 10-11-2022, 03:04 PM   #2
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I can only put 4 pics per post but as you can see it seems I cannot interchange other models either. I suppose I could out the top plate that shows "open" on some of the other models to minic mine.


In this ebay listing you can see the spot welded on plate which I "could" remove.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18513299575...MAAOSwaxtjPu-t
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Old 10-12-2022, 04:16 PM   #3
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Anyone? Also does anyone know the purpose of the deflector? The 8535-IV has the same size minus a plate at the very back of it i could cut off and the deflector. It would be identical after cutting that back plate off but would still not have a deflector.

Thanks
Dave
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Old 10-12-2022, 04:45 PM   #4
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Feel for you, but I have no clue, but found people have been looking for that burner years ago.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/atwo...ii-219042.html
Maybe a close inspection of the heat exchanger if the burner is that bad is in order?
Could you remove your mesh and re-install a new one (from another burner as you mentioned)?
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Old 10-12-2022, 06:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWEB View Post
Feel for you, but I have no clue, but found people have been looking for that burner years ago.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/atwo...ii-219042.html
Maybe a close inspection of the heat exchanger if the burner is that bad is in order?
Could you remove your mesh and re-install a new one (from another burner as you mentioned)?
That's actually not in bad shape compared to some I've seen The furnace worked well even w/ this burner but I was doing maintenance on it. The heat exchanger looks like new still. I was considering removing the mesh and tried to remove mine by bending back the tabs but it wasn't budging. I was also considering modifying one of these although some say it worked w/o modification on their 8535-III. I would at least cut the metal piece to mimic mine and I could also pull out my deflector but I'd REALLY like to pull the screen if possible.

Dave
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Old 10-12-2022, 06:51 PM   #6
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Read the comments here on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-36043-.../dp/B004QMYYF0


Hope it helps you decide.
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Old 10-12-2022, 06:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Read the comments here on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-36043-.../dp/B004QMYYF0


Hope it helps you decide.
Thanks I had read those before. Have done tons of research on this and i had already tried to remove the screen and it's not budging. As bad as my burner looks it's still working so I don't want to damage it beyond function.

Dave
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Old 10-12-2022, 07:38 PM   #8
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You have 3 issues
Year....1995 vintage
Model Version......Atwood 8535-III
Atwood no longer exists .....Dometic acquired them several years ago and have slowly but surely done away with support/parts etc
Dometic now has it's OWN line of RV Furnaces

The burner for your III version needs the deflector. It 'spreads the air/fuel mixture out across the burner for combustion

Using a burner assembly w/o deflector would result in poor combustion.....sooting

RV Salvage Yards???
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Old 10-12-2022, 08:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
You have 3 issues
Year....1995 vintage
Model Version......Atwood 8535-III
Atwood no longer exists .....Dometic acquired them several years ago and have slowly but surely done away with support/parts etc
Dometic now has it's OWN line of RV Furnaces

The burner for your III version needs the deflector. It 'spreads the air/fuel mixture out across the burner for combustion

Using a burner assembly w/o deflector would result in poor combustion.....sooting

RV Salvage Yards???
Doubt I'd find anything in better shape than I have used. Googling I've found ZERO. I can try to cannibalize a few of them to make one good one. IF I can get the screen off of mine (So far I can't) and the new 30268 w/o damage I could retrofit that screen onto my burner that has the deflector. I cannot even see how that would distribute the air/fuel mixture as it just goes up at about a 30deg angle where it hits the bottom of the screen then goes back down at the same angle to the front/bottom of the burner. Gas can go around the diverter to either side as well. In fact, none of the newer versions even use a deflector so I have to wonder if they did away with it because it served no real purpose? If the gas valve is similar and the angle of the orifice jet is the same I would feel that is the case given the IV generation does NOT use that deflector.

I've read that at least 10 people have used the 30268 (was 36043) in the III series just fine so I may throw it in and see how the exhaust looks. I cannot get a direct view of the burner while ignited sadly to know how good the combustion actually is. I can check the exhaust for soot at least. In fact some resellers say this can actually replace the 32811 despite atwood saying you need to buy a new furnace (No surprise on that response).

Dave
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Old 10-13-2022, 04:22 PM   #10
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Ok I'll probably make a separate writeup for this but despite many reviews saying the 30268 will replace the 32811 I wanted to retain my OE deflector to be safe. So what I did is bend the flanges of my old 32811 and pulled out the old screen and bracing. I did the same on the 30268 (Although I had to grind two welds on the longer sheet metal piece to separate the two) and swapped the screen/bracing from the 30268 onto my 32811.
Before assembly I cleaned up any rust I could with a wire brush and my wire wheel where I could get it in there. Mine wasn't bad at all and would have been fine had I not bothered. I then marked where I would cut out the back sheet metal to mimic my 32811. I then hammered the flange back over the new screen and bracing and took my wire wheel to knock down any sharp pieces which could cause hot spots on the burner. It didn't fire up the first time (no ignitor) but I've yet to look at the pre-purge process to see if perhaps it was due to low gas pressure. I turned it off and back on and it fired right up. I've had it running a good 20 minutes so far and the combustion looks complete from what I can see out of the exhaust. No soot to speak of and the burner sounds good. I may buy one more of these 30268s just to have in case they become obsolete at some point as well. Although this one lasted 25+ years so I doubt i'll be touching it again.
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Old 10-13-2022, 04:24 PM   #11
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few more pics
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Old 10-13-2022, 08:30 PM   #12
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Atwood 8535-III burner NLA, what are you guys doing to replace them?

Ours had a deflector. Screen blew out.
Ended up buying a non-deflector one, peeled the old deflector off and welded it into the new one.
Drilled holes thru the back of the new one and spot welded thru the holes.

Been a few years, no pics available.
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Old 10-13-2022, 09:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Ours had a deflector. Screen blew out.
Ended up buying a non-deflector one, peeled the old deflector off and welded it into the new one.
Drilled holes thru the back of the new one and spot welded thru the holes.

Been a few years, no pics available.
With that extended sheet metal I didn't want to do that. Maybe next time I'd weld the deflector to the 30268 and cut the excess sheetmetal at the back but i figured this time I'd do it this way.

Dave
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