AUX Switch | 1995 Holiday Rambler People

[dreemail]

My Chassis batteries drained the other day since the brake lights kept coming on all night long after a rain storm (maybe not related.). I mistakenly thought the Chassis (Engine) batteries (2 ea. 12 V.) were being charged by the Xantrex Freedom 548. Or if not there by the Solar Panel on the top of the RV. (There is no monitor for this that I can find).

So I would like to get the AUX Switch to work. I have hear that I may just need to replace the Solenoid that is between the Chassis and Coach batteries or the Relay. I have attached photos of the Solenoid that is by the Engine. (see links below)

And I would like to get the brake lights (or maybe running lights) to stay off when it's parked, shut-down, and they should be off.

The thing I have done so far is (1) Replace the Headlight Switch --I hope this sorts my high-beam issues out, but the HB is a different lever--(and that issue is a different thread). (2) Charge the Chassis batteries with and external 12v Charger.

And I would like to know how to check the Solar Panel connection to see if it is working.

I did find this above the batteries: (see link below)

There is a standard relay won the bottom right of the photo, half cropped out. I will replace this, just in case.

If you have a 1995 HR Navigator i'd like to hear form you! Of course anyone else with a mind for these things can comment too!.

The links dont see to work as expected. Here are the URLs

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxe...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxe...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxe...ew?usp=sharing

Thank you

[Nomad Mike]

Many RV's especially older ones do not charge the batteries from the shore power and the solar can't keep up if it is a small 10w like mine.

In late 2005 Winnebago started adding a device called a Trik-L-Start to some of their motorhomes - mostly diesels I think.

So on my early 2005 DP, I killed the batteries and found out the hard way that the batteries were not charging and added a new device from the same company called a AMP-L-Start which puts out more amps. Problem solved.

Oh, and