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Old 01-15-2017, 10:00 PM   #15
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I bought a wireless Voyager camera system instead of trying to run a wired system. The Sony system and cable(obsolete) are proprietary, thus the adapters. Every connection creates a window for problems, assuming they work in the first place, have you tested them?
To power the wireless camera, I re-purposed the Sony coax cable to use for 12V power. The center conductor is 12V pos, the shield is neg. I did add an inline fuse holder on pos side. Been working that way for nearly 4 years now.
Camping World also has a different brand of wireless system for $361.
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:41 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
The Sony system and cable(obsolete) are proprietary, thus the adapters. Every connection creates a window for problems, assuming they work in the first place, have you tested them?
Precisely. The only thing that is making everyone who deals with this camera system a lot of money is the lack of simple knowledge that the cable ends can be cut off and new modern, non-proprietary, connectors put on. What the HECK. All the new adaptors and connections are a joke. You can go on amazon and buy a $60 monitor and a $25 camera, cut the ends off of the cable, put new ones on(RCA connectors)(12v power connector) and your in business. I have my backup camera and my side cameras on all the time. Here is a picture. If you need to wire the camera to the control box the pinout is in the picture I posted in thread #14. The only issue is the signal coming out of the control box.

Here are the connectors you need. All you need is to know how to solder. Or find someone who does.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IE7MGBC...0N4R8DZ0&psc=1

And here is what you need for power:
https://www.amazon.com/FolioGadgets-...ower+connector

Signal goes on the center pin and ground goes on the outside. 12v power goes on the center pin and ground is on the outside. Simple.
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:54 AM   #17
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Precisely. The only thing that is making everyone who deals with this camera system a lot of money is the lack of simple knowledge that the cable ends can be cut off and new modern, non-proprietary, connectors put on. What the HECK. All the new adaptors and connections are a joke. You can go on amazon and buy a $60 monitor and a $25 camera, cut the ends off of the cable, put new ones on(RCA connectors)(12v power connector) and your in business. I have my backup camera and my side cameras on all the time. Here is a picture. If you need to wire the camera to the control box the pinout is in the picture I posted in thread #14. The only issue is the signal coming out of the control box.

Here are the connectors you need. All you need is to know how to solder. Or find someone who does.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IE7MGBC...0N4R8DZ0&psc=1

And here is what you need for power:
https://www.amazon.com/FolioGadgets-...ower+connector

Signal goes on the center pin and ground goes on the outside. 12v power goes on the center pin and ground is on the outside. Simple.
Nice setup
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:34 AM   #18
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Splicing new, modern ends on the cable is a great idea, providing the cable itself is good. Which isn't looking likely. The original camera doesn't power up via the original cable. The new camera doesn't power up via the cable. The new camera works flawlessly when plugged directly into the monitor. The cable ends look fine. I'm beginning to think that maybe some mice made a meal of the cable insulation.
I spoke with RV Cams this morning, they pretty much agreed with my uneducated guess. I'm pretty much married to the system I bought because I already installed the monitor and camera. So, I reluctantly ordered a new cable that has the modern ends and won't require any adapters. Less than $60.00 to my door, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the headache of running the cable is going to be worth a lot more than that. RV Cams is guessing the cable was run overhead, and the chances of pulling the original cable used as a fish for the new would be somewhere between slim and none, and Slim left town. Oh, joy. LOL
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:30 PM   #19
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Duane, you can test the cable by grabbing 12V from somewhere and applying it to one of the wires on the control end of the cable, then go to the back of the coach and use a test light or a volt meter to see if you read it on the other end. If you do, repeat on the other wires.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:00 PM   #20
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Duane, you can test the cable by grabbing 12V from somewhere and applying it to one of the wires on the control end of the cable, then go to the back of the coach and use a test light or a volt meter to see if you read it on the other end. If you do, repeat on the other wires.
I agree with Rick. You should make sure you can't use that cable first, before you start running new cable. That Sony cable I believe has 6 conductors in it and the odds of a mouse eating through all 6 is remote. Maybe one or two. And you only need 4 and technically 3 wires for the camera. But that is for a different day. Anyway, another way to do it is to cut the end off of the camera end and twist two of the 6 wires together memorizing the colors and then take an ohm meter and measure resistance of the loop at the monitor end of those two wires or colors. Should have 2 to 4 ohms. That will tell you if you have continuity on both wires. Then you can use those two wires for power. Do the same for two other wires and use those for signal. Good luck.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:03 PM   #21
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Well, did you get it fixed, lad?
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:02 AM   #22
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If the soldering is holding you up, here are a couple of options for screw-on connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Conwork-20-Pa...nal+plug&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Omall-5Pairs-...+terminal+plug

Search for "RCA terminal plug" and "power terminal plug".
These may take a little extra effort to weatherproof on the camera end, but a dab of liquid insulation should do it.
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:54 AM   #23
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Well, did you get it fixed, lad?
No, not yet. I ordered a new cord from RVCams, it's supposed to arrive Friday. I can't leave the coach in front of the house for too long, so I took it back to the storage until the part gets here.
I took a look at the back of the coach, and it appears that there is a couple inch space between the rear cap and the interior wall. I'm hoping that by removing a couple shroud plates around the radiator I can gain enough access to fish the cable out and guide it down to the frame rail. If not, I guess I'll have a new fish tape for the tool box. LOL.
I decided against the splice attempt because the two replacement ends were nearly the cost of the cable, and I'd have to do the soldering standing on a ladder. Sometimes discretion is the better type of valor. I caved.
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:17 AM   #24
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No, not yet. I ordered a new cord from RVCams, it's supposed to arrive Friday. I can't leave the coach in front of the house for too long, so I took it back to the storage until the part gets here.
I took a look at the back of the coach, and it appears that there is a couple inch space between the rear cap and the interior wall. I'm hoping that by removing a couple shroud plates around the radiator I can gain enough access to fish the cable out and guide it down to the frame rail. If not, I guess I'll have a new fish tape for the tool box. LOL.
I decided against the splice attempt because the two replacement ends were nearly the cost of the cable, and I'd have to do the soldering standing on a ladder. Sometimes discretion is the better type of valor. I caved.
I understand.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:00 AM   #25
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See if you can use the old cable to pull the new one through - an old installer's trick.
You can give it a try anyway - but based on my coach they used wire loom covering every wire - you might luck out.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:12 AM   #26
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A few years back I replaced everything. Monitor, camera and wire. The old B/W CRT monitor was about dead and the B/W camera lens had fogged. Plus a generic color camera and monitor cost can be had for under $100. Really didn't need to replace the wire but sometimes I can't leave well enough alone.

Getting the new wire in place behind the rear cap wasn't impossible but took a bit. Working from the camera and the hole for the cable I used a snake across the top of the cap going to the rear clearance lights to the light in the top corner. That was the hard part. From the corner I aimed for the tail light then down to the bottom of the cap. The not so hard part. At that point it was just running the cable along the frame rail to the fire wall and into to the rear of the dash.

Unfortunately you probably won't be able to pull the old out and at the same time pull the new one in. The old cable is most likely bundled with the clearance light wires or held down somehow to the rear structure. At least mine was. I cut as much off at the tail light an abandon the rest inside the rear cap.

If you plan to replace the cable consider by passing the reverse trigger to activate the system and power it from a source that is only active when the engine is running so you have it all the time. I split the difference with aiming the camera between seeing the hitch receiver and seeing a bit down the road. I have about a 4' blind spot behind me that is easy to work with when backing. Once an object drops out of the camera viewing area I know if might be best to stop at that point but I also have a clear view of the lane in a passing situation.
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