Bathroom wall shift

[2aktravelers]

Hi everyone. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem. We have a 2016 Winnebago Tour 42HD. The half bath wall had shifted to the point where the door latch didn’t catch at all and the door wouldn’t stay closed. We made a visit to the new factory service center in Junction City OR and they fixed it. Now two months later it appears the wall has shifted the other way as the door is starting to rub when it closes. Anyone have a similar problem and if so what was the final fix? Thank you in advance.

[marjoa]

Just asking here to help narrow it down:
1) When they fixed it the 1st time, what did they do?
2) How do you know or why do you assume the WALL is shifting? Could it be that the hinges or the door jam on the hinge side is what's loosening or shifting?
3) Have you tried to reach up and see if the top of the wall where it ties into the ceiling and down at the bottom near the floor is loose or wiggles any?
4) When you say it's moving/shifting...how much are we talking about here? 1/8", 1/4" 1/2" or what?
5) When you take the door and try to close it, is the gap between the door and the jam—on the latching side—equal in distance from top to bottom?
6) Does this happen every time all the time even with the leveling jacks NOT deployed? Like when you stop to get gas or when the coach is in it's normal "rest" position like a rest stop? If not, I'm just wondering it MAYBE when you arrive somewhere and then level the coach for an extended stay, the leveling process is putting your coach in such a way that, that one door or that one side shifts just enough to cause this problem. How about when air bags are—full or empty—does it happen in both of these positions too?

BTW...do yourself and us a favor by putting your MH and Toad information into your signature
This will really help in all your future posts, so you won't have to type it in each time.
You do this by:
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2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on. You’ll be limited to 3 lines unless you become a IRV2 supporter.
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[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Don't think I've ever heard of anyone having that problem! Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[2aktravelers]

Originally Posted by marjoa

Just asking here to help narrow it down:
1) When they fixed it the 1st time, what did they do?
2) How do you know or why do you assume the WALL is shifting? Could it be that the hinges or the door jam on the hinge side is what's loosening or shifting?
3) Have you tried to reach up and see if the top of the wall where it ties into the ceiling and down at the bottom near the floor is loose or wiggles any?
4) When you say it's moving/shifting...how much are we talking about here? 1/8", 1/4" 1/2" or what?
5) When you take the door and try to close it, is the gap between the door and the jam—on the latching side—equal in distance from top to bottom?
6) Does this happen every time all the time even with the leveling jacks NOT deployed? Like when you stop to get gas or when the coach is in it's normal "rest" position like a rest stop? If not, I'm just wondering it MAYBE when you arrive somewhere and then level the coach for an extended stay, the leveling process is putting your coach in such a way that, that one door or that one side shifts just enough to cause this problem. How about when air bags are—full or empty—does it happen in both of these positions too?

BTW...do yourself and us a favor by putting your MH and Toad information into your signature
This will really help in all your future posts, so you won't have to type it in each time.
You do this by:
1) Going to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on. You’ll be limited to 3 lines unless you become a IRV2 supporter.
Consider signing up and becoming a IRV2 supporter. It’s a small way to give back to what we all reap here.

Hi There! Thanks for the reply. I will update my signature ASAP, thanks for the instructions. Back on topic to answer your questions

1. To fix it they pulled off the bottom trim whacked it back into place and ran silicone on each side.

2. Door hinges are fine, firmly attached with an equal gap.

3. I haven’t really done that yet, I didn’t want to possibly make it worse until we are stationary for a while. That’s the next stop.

4. When it first happened, before the Junction City repair it was about 3/4” this time it’s only about 1/4 “ but in the opposite direction.

5. Nope, smaller gap at bottom on the latch side only. Hinge side is uniform.

6. There doesn’t seem to be any change regardless of what configuration the coach is in.

Thanks for taking the time to discuss this with me.

R

[Dan McMartin]

If they could whack the wall back into place, it's not firmly attached to the floor and caulking isn't going to hold it there. Sounds like they need to pull the wall board, screw the wall into the floor and replace the wall board.

[Rkesselus]

Your frame is torquing which causes the walls to shift with the movement of the floor. Next time it happens manually change the jacks while wife watches the movement of the door. It won't take much movement to make a change,

[2aktravelers]

Originally Posted by Dan McMartin

If they could whack the wall back into place, it's not firmly attached to the floor and caulking isn't going to hold it there. Sounds like they need to pull the wall board, screw the wall into the floor and replace the wall board.

That’s what I think but the tile runs continuous under the wall.

[2aktravelers]

Originally Posted by Rkesselus

Your frame is torquing which causes the walls to shift with the movement of the floor. Next time it happens manually change the jacks while wife watches the movement of the door. It won't take much movement to make a change,

Doesn’t change with the jacks, I think Dan McMartin nailed it. I was just hoping someone else has had this problem. Don’t like being so special.

[2aktravelers]

A little more investigation I determined this time the other side moved not the side the service center fixed. I pulled off a piece of trim and saw the wall is actually about 1/4 above the tile, not even attached at the bottom.

[Quincy]

Originally Posted by 2aktravelers

That’s what I think but the tile runs continuous under the wall.

Is the flooring real tile of some kind or sheet material?

[Dan McMartin]

Weird! Maybe they're all that way. I'd put a shim under that and at least wedge the wall in place. If you can get to it and the floor isn't real tile, run some long screws through the sides of the wall into the floor in addition the shims.

Something isn't right. The wall shouldn't move that easily.

[96 Wideglide]

Are you in a humid climate now?

It's possible after they moved the wall closer to the door, now your door is expanding due to humidity and causing it to rub on the jamb.

[Lv2Roam2]

I experienced an issue with the wall in a QD - the gap was most apparent in the junction with the sidewall and the failure of the door latch to stay closed. The fix was to put some screws through the junction.

However - you may be having a different issue. I'd be hesitant to start driving screws down through the floor tile. Perhaps consider something like 'liquid nails' as a start, a phone call to WBGO to see what they offer as options, etc. Also note that the latch side of the wall has an adjustable jamb - check to ensure that the adjustment screws are holding the trim in place.

[Rkesselus]

Originally Posted by 2aktravelers

Doesn’t change with the jacks, I think Dan McMartin nailed it. I was just hoping someone else has had this problem. Don’t like being so special.

If the walls are moving what do you think is making them move? So i would suggest that the frame is flexing along with all the frame work done while building the RV. If you make it to tight you are going to start breaking things that will not flex. Good four point jacks work in pairs to keep the frame from twisting (torque) but you still get a little twist when the weigh is off the suspension and on the jacks. Here is a piece that shows just how much twisting can occur. I have a door that does not meet up with the latch and I can fix it with the jacks. In my case it is left to right.
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...51&action=view