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Old 09-14-2020, 03:17 PM   #1
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Battery Drain

I am having a battery drain on the main battery. I have a 2012 bounder v 10. When i pull the fuse for IP cluster it goes away. I sent the cluster panel out for testing they could not find it. There are two sets of wires to the cluster A and B. When I plug in A NO drain, when I plug in B i get the drain. Ford tech hot line is telling me buy a new cluster, I am OK with that if that resolves the issue. but looking to see if anyone else had this issue
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:48 PM   #2
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got new cluster same problem. Do not know what to do, other than to buy a quick disconnect for the battery
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:51 PM   #3
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Did you replace the cluster?
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:53 PM   #4
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A battery disconnect will work just fine, I used one in my old MH.
Never could find the parasite drain. Disconnect worked good.
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:54 PM   #5
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I had the orginal tested they could find nothing wrong with that cluster. New/refurbish came in today and I plugged it in same result
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Old 09-18-2020, 05:20 AM   #6
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How fast does it drain from full charge to "won't crank"?


Is the coach plugged in when it drains?


How old is the battery?


If power not available battery disconnects are about the only option.
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:07 AM   #7
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drains in three days.
not plugged in.
brand new battert
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:14 AM   #8
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takes the batttery down to 8 volts
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Old 09-19-2020, 02:52 AM   #9
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If you are sure it is circuit "B", then you could install a toggle switch in the dash and switch just circuit "B" off when leaving coach. Would be easier than a battery disconnect to turn on and off.


I assume nothing else plugged in or running like in dash radio/camera cluster, usb ports,etc.


Do the coach batteries hold a charge during this 3 day period?
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:26 AM   #10
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It looks like the b side is the power side. Even if the a side is not plugged in the drain still happens
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:23 PM   #11
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Testing of motorhome.

1. Clustered replaced
2. Headlight switch unplugged
3. Dimmer switch unplugged
4. Radio unplugged
5. Travel/ park radio switch unplugged
6. System check switch unplugged
7. House batteries disconnect.
8. Tested emergency brake on / off.
9. Left the battery both positive and negative unplugged for 24 hours.

Still have drain on fuse 4, IP cluster

Right now, I put a quick disconnect. Going to use it two more times this year, then storage. Will have to send it to Ford in the spring. All this happen when I changed the battery original owner swears he never had a issue
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:37 PM   #12
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Unless you can provide the actual current drain in amps it is useless throwing parts at it.

A tiny drain on a bad battery can kill a battery. A battery that has been drained down enough times will not hold up.

You could easily have installed a bad brand new battery. 8 volts is a battery killer.

That fuse you are pulling makes it easy to measure the drain from the cluster but there could be additional ones as well. I would be measuring the current with the negative post off and a meter inline or the positive as well. Either will do.

You could have a compartment light on or your steps still on. When in storage mode a battery disconnect is an absolute must. It does not take long to add up a few milliamps and empty a battery.

If you refuse to get those readings you could just remove that fuse, run the wire through a relay with a new inline fuse in place of the one you take out. Connect the control of relay to your ignition. Very simple modification.

Load testing of a battery is not always a useful method for testing. I had a battery that would go from 12.7 volts to 8 volts in exactly 20 minutes with any load on it at all. The headlights for example and in 20 minutes you could set your watch. Bang, right to 8 volts. Jump start it and it was up and running again.

Bad batteries can drive a customer crazy. I diagnosed so many in 50 years that I would tell a customer with a bad battery to replace theirs and if it didn't solve their issue I would pay for the battery. I did not sell batteries nor did a customer ever bring me a receipt for reimbursement.

As little as .25 amps can kill a battery in a few days.

Since more that one person seems to be experiencing it someone here should be able to tell me what the current drain actually is.
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:45 PM   #13
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I did just put in the new battery(interstate). When the ip cluster in plugged in I get a reading of .30 when I unplug it it goes down to .03. Had mine IP cluster tested at united radio who rebuild them for ford on the east cost. Got a different one from them same thing. battery fully changed at 12.6 volts. i have been using a meter off the negative post.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:48 AM   #14
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21 amps on a single starting battery in three days will find a marginal battery. Especially if the weather turns cold. .3 amps/hr

I always told my techs as soon as the weather turned cold we would get a rash of service calls because the sick batteries would be found.

One of my early RV's had a very similar condition and the manual suggested the battery be disconnected for times when inactive for three or more days. I installed solar and a trik-l-start to solve the problem.

Thanks for posting the current draw. Either a battery shut off switch or a simple relay to control the path to the dash cluster.

I'm curious if the cluster is the only thing on that fuse???

If a battery holds 100 marbles/amps, and you take one marble out every three hours you can do the math. And a battery usually won't start a big engine when the bucket gets to half full. So get down close to the 50 marble level and it may not turn over.

The "techs" repairing the clusters are probably parts changers for the most and not likely qualified to make component level diagnostics or changes. And in many cases you cannot even get to components that may be buried in compounds.
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