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bhinmi · 10-27-2019, 08:55 PM

I recently found a video saying the relay switch inside the converter is sticky and not changing over when unplugged. Will check that this week and see if it clicks. Thanks for all your help guys!

bhinmi · 10-28-2019, 07:18 PM

When plugging and unplugging shore power I'm not hearing a click in the convertor. Check low voltage distribution board and getting 14.5v when plugged in. Unplugged gets nothing. Checked the batteries when plugged in and only getting 12.1v at battery. Problem is either converter or inline between batt and converter. I can't seem to find a fuse close to battery box. This is turning out to be a real pill!!!!

HJLowell · 10-28-2019, 08:10 PM

But your getting a great education.
And you will have great satisfaction when your all 100 percent well.

Keep thinking it through.
You getting close.

cavie · 10-28-2019, 08:28 PM

Please anewer questions in post #5

YC1 · 10-29-2019, 11:57 AM

The path from the battery to the converter is not working. A fuse, relay, switch, loose connection, etc is not working. 12.1 at the battery is dead. The 14 volts must get there.

Thing of the converter as a faucet. The faucet is one when there is 14 volts on the output of it. Then your hoses are supposed to fill the battery bucket. Simple concept. IF there are kinks in the hose, or a break along the path, the bucket is not going to fill.

Start at the converter with the voltmeter. Make sure your negative test lead has a good ground even if you have to run a wire and tape the probe lead to it. You cannot afford to have a fault connection on that lead while taking measurements.

Now take your positive lead off the meter and take the probe where there is some sort of grinder. Sharpen that sucker so it will draw blood if you slip. So don't slip.

Go back and install it on the meter.

NOW, probe where the 14 volts is. Move to any place you can trace wires and gently push and spin the probe to make sure it is making contact in the wires. The tiny hole will self seal and I have never had an issue in almost 50 years now.

Take pictures. You can often hold the camera in places you cannot see. The pictures will help tremendously and you can print them out and write your results on them.

If it is easier starting at the battery then do so. You simply need to follow that low 12. volt reading.

You can get very dirty and bust some knuckles chasing wires in an RV. But mostly I think your problem will be in plain sight.

A simple relay may not be engaged for example. Hence, lots of pictures here will really help.

YC1 · 10-29-2019, 11:58 AM

http://www.metrotrekkers.org/utility/electrical.htm

Here is a fun site to learn and experiment with the various types of systems.

bhinmi · 10-29-2019, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

Please answer questions in post #5

check 2 reverse polarity fuses 30/40 amp on converter. Check inline reset-able fuse within 4' of battery. Use a voltmeter don't just look. check converter AC breaker in breaker box. Off then on. check reset on inverter.

Checked all fuses on converter (PD9260C). 3x25a fuses. GOOD! Can't find inline reset-able fuse from battery box. Cycled ALL breakers in electrical compartment. There is no "reset" on converter that I could find. Was told by RV DOCTOR there was a sticky "switch" inside converter that's not connecting DC once the 120v is cut off.

YC1 · 10-30-2019, 12:05 PM

Looking at the manual for your converter there is NO indication of any breakers.

It looks like a very simple charger. The basic schematic shows it going right from the unit to the battery bank. That is simplistic of course.

Put a voltmeter on the two post of the converter. IF you are getting 14 + etc then your problem is down the wire path.

Using my prescribed voltmeter procedure put the positive lead into the insulation of the negative wire lead coming from the converter. Do the same on the positive wire. Doing this will give some valuable information.

If you cannot follow the path along the positive wire then run a temporary wire to the battery positive. Disconnect the battery negative terminals and disconnect from shoreline. Then with the temporary wire in place reconnect the negative leads. Reconnect shoreline and measure the nice charging voltage across the battery.

This will simply bypass the fault you are chasing temporarily while you figure it out. Still need some pictures. They are easy enough to post.

bhinmi · 10-31-2019, 06:49 PM

I will take some pics and try to post them soon. I checked volts at low distribution board while plugged in to shore and got 14.4v. The problem has to be between the battery and the power dist unit. Weather permitting I am going to try to video trace the wiring from house batteries.