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Old 12-08-2016, 04:38 PM   #15
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The cables don't look very healthy either. New cables are not a big expense. Also, I notice in your photo you battery is only 500 CCA. not much of a battery for that engine. I would lay out another $75-100 and get a 900 CCA battery, new cables and bolts and you will be trouble free for years to come. Nothing more annoying than a dead battery. Except running out of beer.

P/S, measure the battery tray and install a battery that is as large as you can get for the tray. I suspect someone replaced the battery at some point with the wrong size battery.
Roger that! What do I search for when looking for new cables? And when you say "as large as you can get" is the only thing that has to be the same is the battery being 12v? CCA and such I should just get the highest I can find?

And yes, I never want to run out of beer!
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:53 PM   #16
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Roger that! What do I search for when looking for new cables? And when you say "as large as you can get" is the only thing that has to be the same is the battery being 12v? CCA and such I should just get the highest I can find?

And yes, I never want to run out of beer!
Just take a measurement of your cables and battery tray and head down to your local NAPA or equivalent intelligent auto parts store. They can supply new cables to the same length and all you need to do is install them.
As for the battery, they can likely supply a battery based on the make/model of the chassis but have the maximum dimensions in hand anyway just to be sure. Go the the Maximum CCA that will fit. The extra few bucks is worth it, trust me.

BTW, when working on your battery, always disconnect the Negative Cable first, then the Positive. To install, do the reverse. Install the positive first, the the Negative.
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:26 PM   #17
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Just take a measurement of your cables and battery tray and head down to your local NAPA or equivalent intelligent auto parts store. They can supply new cables to the same length and all you need to do is install them.
As for the battery, they can likely supply a battery based on the make/model of the chassis but have the maximum dimensions in hand anyway just to be sure. Go the the Maximum CCA that will fit. The extra few bucks is worth it, trust me.

BTW, when working on your battery, always disconnect the Negative Cable first, then the Positive. To install, do the reverse. Install the positive first, the the Negative.
Roger that!
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:17 PM   #18
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Buy a hydrometer $5 max.

Test all the cells to see if they're any good before you go chasing all these charging issues, buying a charger, taking to dealer etc., etc. If the cells test bad, easy answer. Buy new battery.
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:26 PM   #19
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It's already been stated, but those cables will never work with any reliability. If you don't want to try to find some that will fit, most semi truck parts houses (at least around me) can custom make a cable to your specs. This image is one I made myself. Your ends should look like this or you're losing power. Could also be corrosion inside of those wires you can't see.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:43 PM   #20
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Buy a hydrometer $5 max.

Test all the cells to see if they're any good before you go chasing all these charging issues, buying a charger, taking to dealer etc., etc. If the cells test bad, easy answer. Buy new battery.
Since I took the battery to the auto parts store and they did a test there and it showed it was 100% charged would that change anything with a self hydrometer?
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:49 PM   #21
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Since I took the battery to the auto parts store and they did a test there and it showed it was 100% charged would that change anything with a self hydrometer?

The shop you took it to would have tested the battery with a hydrometer. As I said earlier, your problem is a couple of things, you need new cables to make proper contact and your battery, although it tested good, is very much undersized for your application.
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:08 PM   #22
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It's already been stated, but those cables will never work with any reliability. If you don't want to try to find some that will fit, most semi truck parts houses (at least around me) can custom make a cable to your specs. This image is one I made myself. Your ends should look like this or you're losing power. Could also be corrosion inside of those wires you can't see.
That's a big 10-4. I'll run out to NAPA with some specs and see what they got. Thanks again.
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:11 PM   #23
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The shop you took it to would have tested the battery with a hydrometer. As I said earlier, your problem is a couple of things, you need new cables to make proper contact and your battery, although it tested good, is very much undersized for your application.

Check and check. Thanks for info!
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:22 AM   #24
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Replace those battery terminals!

My 2003 Bounder had lots of charging issues... the battery control center had a burned resistor. But even after that was fixed, I'd need to jump start it often as not. Battery tested fine, and was fully charged. It was a puzzle.

Turned out that one of the side-mount battery terminals was rusty. It would pass some current, but not much. It was probably the reason the BCC failed. I think it was a $3 part at WalMart, it's been 100% reliable since. So fix that first.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:30 AM   #25
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Please check Neutral safety switch ( See if turns over in neutral) and also try jumping the starter solenoid and see what happens. Process of elimination.
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Old 12-09-2016, 08:48 AM   #26
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Exclamation Battery Problems

That is exactly what happened to me yesterday. I had my coach washed, waxed and detailed last Friday. Moved it back into my parking spot and my review camera went out. After I had shut it down I noticed that I was to close to the back fence. Went back inside and went to restart and nothing. Could not figure out what was the problem. Took out the 2-12V chassis batteries and used a hydrometer and checked out. One battery was great and the other had 3 dead cells. Yesterday I went to Advance Auto parts and took my batteries and had them check them out. They came to the same conclusion that I did. One was bad. So, I bought 2 new batteries and went and installed them in my rig and went to start it up and -NOTHING!! Every thing on the dash worked perfectly, all the bells and horns and whistles on the dash worked. Started checking out, the different systems and trying to start after each check. When I got to the transmission I pressed the different gears and low and behold, it started. Even though the indicator said N there must have been something in the Neutral switch. Every thing is OK now except I just need to figure out where the 3rd wire in the battery compartment goes.
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:58 PM   #27
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That is exactly what happened to me yesterday. I had my coach washed, waxed and detailed last Friday. Moved it back into my parking spot and my review camera went out. After I had shut it down I noticed that I was to close to the back fence. Went back inside and went to restart and nothing. Could not figure out what was the problem. Took out the 2-12V chassis batteries and used a hydrometer and checked out. One battery was great and the other had 3 dead cells. Yesterday I went to Advance Auto parts and took my batteries and had them check them out. They came to the same conclusion that I did. One was bad. So, I bought 2 new batteries and went and installed them in my rig and went to start it up and -NOTHING!! Every thing on the dash worked perfectly, all the bells and horns and whistles on the dash worked. Started checking out, the different systems and trying to start after each check. When I got to the transmission I pressed the different gears and low and behold, it started. Even though the indicator said N there must have been something in the Neutral switch. Every thing is OK now except I just need to figure out where the 3rd wire in the battery compartment goes.

Golf man - just FYI, usually at the bottom , and on top of your steer column is the neutral safety switch. It has a screw on each side that once you loosen you can move in either direction to line up neutral to prevent this in the future and, also so you can start in park mode. Sometimes, the wires get corroded and just need to be cleaned up and use di-electric grease when re attaching. If it's not there, it's a whole different animal on side of transmission ... Either way glad you resolved issue and happy holidays!
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Old 12-10-2016, 12:00 AM   #28
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Golf man - just FYI, usually at the bottom , and on top of your steer column is the neutral safety switch. It has a screw on each side that once you loosen you can move in either direction to line up neutral to prevent this in the future and, also so you can start in park mode. Sometimes, the wires get corroded and just need to be cleaned up and use di-electric grease when re attaching. If it's not there, it's a whole different animal on side of transmission ... Either way glad you resolved issue and happy holidays!
Also is the third wire on ground or positive side of batteries?
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