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Old 02-16-2021, 03:18 PM   #15
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I did the CHF on my F53 gasser in the front only. Fairly easy to do and made it a pleasure to drive even with on hand. For me it was worth doing and did not take very long.
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Old 02-16-2021, 04:19 PM   #16
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I would look into a Tiffin gas chassis that has the factory installed “liquid springs” option.

https://youtu.be/ZioX97YTxlM
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Old 02-16-2021, 05:08 PM   #17
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Our last rig was a 32' tiffin gasser. We had a great time on that rig but it wasn't built to a champagne budget. Just cuz it looks like a DP doesn't mean it is. We would have been better off keeping our airstream until we started living aboard, at which point we would have been better off with a 5th wheel. Currently in a DP which is AWESOME. If we hadn't dug in in that gasser we probably would have gotten here sooner.
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Old 02-16-2021, 05:23 PM   #18
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If you like the floor plan of what you have, and it's RELIABLE, my suggestion would be to dump a little cash in it. It all depends on how much money you have, and willing to spend, to just bail out on it. Floorplan, to me anyway, is important. Moneywise, you'd be ahead by spending a little to make it drive the way you want. Mine is 15 years old and pretty solid, a Bounder 32W. Yea I think the new ones are nice looking. But not nice enough to be in debt for the next 10 years. I'd easily, and may, dump 5 grand into the suspension next year, before going into debt for another newer one. But I'm on a budget and a cheapskate.


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Old 02-16-2021, 05:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Good info from donskiman. It has been my impression that several of the recent Fleetwood models designed and built by Rev Group have been substantially cheapened (and presumably priced accordingly) but I didn't have any specifics to back up that impression.



You have to look past the glamor to see those things.

Very very true. A new Bounder isn't even close to the quality of the older Bounders. I've live in one for a little over a year (older) and been in a newer one. No comparison on quality. Just like cars and trucks, the newer ones just feel lightweight and cheap.


Maybe the OP should look for an older diesel pusher.


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Old 02-16-2021, 06:00 PM   #20
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Tiffin introduced the PowerGlide chassis on some 2012 DP’s. They put it under a 37’ Allegro Bus. This would be a Champagne and Caviar to beer and potato chips comparison. Full disclosure, I do not own a Tiffin and I actually prefer a good craft beer or bourbon to champagne.

Motorhomes of Texas had a 2014 that sold. It was listed at $189K.
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Old 02-16-2021, 08:38 PM   #21
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Very very true. A new Bounder isn't even close to the quality of the older Bounders. I've live in one for a little over a year (older) and been in a newer one. No comparison on quality. Just like cars and trucks, the newer ones just feel lightweight and cheap.


Maybe the OP should look for an older diesel pusher.


Jim58
Agree. I'd say it's more like the difference between a day sailer and a blue water boat. Would way rather take a solid older boat out on the big water than a chlorox bottle and feel much the same about a quality older DP out on the big road
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Old 02-16-2021, 09:40 PM   #22
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We had a 2015 Tiffin Open Road 35 QBA and now have a 2020 Tiffin Breeze 33BR. The drive in the Breeze is a lot better. QBA had CHF. Breeze has IFS and air suspension.
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Old 02-17-2021, 12:36 PM   #23
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Hubbie has started doing some serious research on what fixes are worth it! Thanks for all this info
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Old 02-18-2021, 05:00 AM   #24
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Here are the mods we did on our 30' ACE. Ford 18,000 lb chassis.


1. Cheap handling fix (free DIY)

2. Added rear track bar (pan hard bar) ($500-$700 DIY)



Did both of these at same time so don't know which had the most positive effect. One improvements was reduced side to side sway (rocking) like when entering a driveway to a parking lot or entrance. I attribute this to the cheap handling fix. The other improvement was to near elimination of tail wag from wind and passing trucks. I attribute this to the track bar.



3. Insulated the underside of the cockpit and dog house with dynamat. Big reduction in cab noise. ($350 DIY)



4. Added roadmaster steering stabilizer. Reduced the left/right sawing motion of the steering wheel. Less fatiguing to drive. ($300-500 DIY)



5. Added Centramatics dynamic wheel balance. Not sure how much this helped to eliminate wheel bounce. ($400-600 DIY)



The first place to start is with tire pressure and alignment.


Good idea to check (visual inspect) the rear sway bar bushings. Ford chassis is notorious for these going bad, like 50% in a few years. I would recommend doing one change at a time to see if the effect cures what you don't like. Start with the cheap ones first. Many people have changed the shock absorbers, I didn't do that but is another option. Claims are that it makes for a smoother less jarring ride.
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