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Old 05-29-2019, 08:14 AM   #15
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I rebuilt a camper wall with dry rott replaced plywood and re attached the fiber glass siding west epoxy resin.
2005 Itasca meridian
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Old 05-29-2019, 08:45 AM   #16
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++ on the West System and adding a bonding agent. I have used this on boat and RV repairs for years and love it.
33' 2008 National Tropical on a Freightliner chassis.RVM#189
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Old 05-29-2019, 10:00 AM   #17
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I have done two rv delam repairs. The first was on a friends Itasca which had separated around a large window all the way down to the bottom, about an 7' x 5' area to repair. The second was on my Winnebago which had separated around the fuel filler to the bottom of the panel about a 3' x 2' area to repair. I have used epoxies and resins through out my carpentry career and as an amateur boat builder and restorer.
I got some advice from a supplier(Merton's, Springfield MA) who suggested I use a pre- thickened epoxy (bar top epoxy) It is cheaper than using West 105 and cabosil and is more than adequate strength for the task. I modified a caulking tube and added a small section of plastic tubing connected to a piece of 4 mm steel brake line to deliver the epoxy where it was needed and then used a laminate roller to make sure the epoxy was forced through all the veneer layers saturating them and to keep it from pooling. Since the weather was a warm 75 deg on the day I did the repair on my Winnebago. I refrigerated the epoxy down to 60 degrees prior to mixing to extend the working time to 1 hour.

Clamping needs to be figured out ahead of time. I placed all the clamps, pads and braces ahead of time and then marked and photographed them so I could quickly put them back on before the epoxy began pooling or curing. I left the clamps on for 24 hours. In the picture below the repair was done in two stages. The first was the bottom as pictured. The second day I repaired the area around the filler neck cut-out and down to the first day first repair. I also carefully sealed and doubled coated the area inside the opening which was the source of the water intrusion.

1995 Winnebago Warrior 23RC Class A
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:48 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by RickNC View Post
I modified a caulking tube and added a small section of plastic tubing connected to a piece of 4 mm steel brake line to deliver the epoxy where it was needed...
I like the caulk tube / epoxy fill to keep that one in the tips and tricks side of the brain for the next time. I might just use / empty and clean a caulk tube next time sealing something and keep that around just in case.

Also like those deep throat clamps you got there. Perfect for that job. Not a whole lot of other uses, but it got the job done.
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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Old 08-28-2019, 07:08 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by capnqball View Post
Having had boats for 35 years, I have used 5200 numerous times and it will not come apart if you follow directions, which aren't very complicated. If you use it to bond two things together, just be sure you'll never want to remove it.......cuz you won't without significant damage to both surfaces.

35+ years boating and repairing them and this is correct. 5200 it's the real deal.
1997 American Eagle 40 EVS

with 325 Cummins & Spartan chassis
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:19 PM   #20
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3M 5200 limited temperature range -40C to 88C

The limited high temperature range of this adhesive should be considered
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:49 AM   #21
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In Home Depot or Lowes, you can find "Fuze It" made by Liquid Nails, which holds on almost any surface and strong. I used it for numerous occasions it's never failed.
Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
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