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Old 03-20-2017, 01:16 PM   #1
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Black and Gray valves.....why not Ball valves?

Hello,

I have a 1997 holiday rambler imperial that is starting to leak even though the valves are shut all the way. I will be replacing them soon and wanted to understand why nobody seems to use a ball valve instead of the standard gates. Seems like it would be a much better seal.

I did a few searches and could not find any information surrounding ball valves for sewage on RVs. Any thoughts or explanations would really help. Thanks in advance. Tyler
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:18 PM   #2
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That would be a 3" ball valve, right? Gate valves can take up very little space.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirchyBoy View Post
That would be a 3" ball valve, right? Gate valves can take up very little space.

And less expensive. And I'm not sure how well a ball valve would deal with solids. A gate valve can chop through or just push the material to the other side of the end seal.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:34 PM   #4
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A 3" gate valve is about 1" thick, a 3" ball valve will be huge, 7" long. You don't have room for a 3" ball valve. Replacing the gate valves, if you have good access, is relativley easy. Be sure to get some silicone grease to lube up the rubber gaskets well. Replacing leaky sewer valves is part of the joy of RVing!
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:37 PM   #5
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Gate valve........
Opens fully in one motion
When open it is fully out of flow path


Ball/Globe/Butterfly valves
While opening they restrict the flow
Ball valve when closed will have 'stuff' trapped inside ball cavity.......freeze issue and 'stuff' could dry out causing blockage
Globe valve reduces size of flow path due to design
Butterfly valve....when open it is IN the flow path/when closing it could trap 'stuff' between seat and disc

Blade valves are less expensive then other valve designs, easy to replace (4 bolts) and are simple to mfg.
Issue is some stuff can get in grove that blade slides in causing 'leaks'
Usually can be cleared by back flushing or tank flushing
Seals can get dislodged....easier to just replace valve vs removing valve and repairing/replacing seals (already have valve out---just put new one in)

Pros/cons.........blade valves for mfgs are 'CHEAPER' to produce
Major reason no ball/blade/butterfly valves available for waste tanks
(along with 'cons' mentioned above)
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:42 PM   #6
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You probably just need a new rubber seal, my waste valve was leaking the seal was smashed from years of use, new seal and the leak was fixed
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:54 PM   #7
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Man I love the fast responses. Thank you all. I guess most of what you all have said makes sense. I just get nervous that the current type of valve will have to be replaced often, but I hope I am wrong. If everyone here says to stick with the current set up.....I will trust your advice. Thanks again.

Tyler
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MuxedUpHRI View Post
Man I love the fast responses. Thank you all. I guess most of what you all have said makes sense. I just get nervous that the current type of valve will have to be replaced often, but I hope I am wrong. If everyone here says to stick with the current set up.....I will trust your advice. Thanks again.

Tyler
My RV is 2007 ....OEM waste valves...still work A-OK
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuxedUpHRI View Post
Man I love the fast responses. Thank you all. I guess most of what you all have said makes sense. I just get nervous that the current type of valve will have to be replaced often, but I hope I am wrong. If everyone here says to stick with the current set up.....I will trust your advice. Thanks again.

Tyler
If you get bored pull them once a year and lube them..they will be happy and last a LONG time. I use lithium grease or axle grease or whatever I have on hand. I'm sure they make a valve lube but I've never bothered looking for it.
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:58 PM   #10
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This is the silicone grease (plumbers grease) for use on the rubber seals on your waste valves. Wal mart has it for about a buck less

Ace 1/2fl oz Silicone Grease - Faucet Grease - Ace Hardware
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:34 PM   #11
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Ball valves are more restrictive.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:35 PM   #12
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I had to replace one of mine on the road last year when a 'helper' broke a handle off.

Just drain your tanks as normal, and then manually use your hydraulic leveling jacks to tilt your coach over to the PS, so no other drainage comes out.

It's easy to unbolt both of the valves and replace them both, 20ish bucks each.

Took me a couple hours of driving to locate a replacement when it broke, probably took 15 minutes to replace it. I now carry a spare.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuxedUpHRI View Post
I just get nervous that the current type of valve will have to be replaced often, but I hope I am wrong.

Tyler
28 years RVing, 3 RV's...not a single valve failure.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Gate valve........
Opens fully in one motion
When open it is fully out of flow path


Ball/Globe/Butterfly valves
While opening they restrict the flow
Ball valve when closed will have 'stuff' trapped inside ball cavity.......freeze issue and 'stuff' could dry out causing blockage
Globe valve reduces size of flow path due to design
Butterfly valve....when open it is IN the flow path/when closing it could trap 'stuff' between seat and disc

Blade valves are less expensive then other valve designs, easy to replace (4 bolts) and are simple to mfg.
Issue is some stuff can get in grove that blade slides in causing 'leaks'
Usually can be cleared by back flushing or tank flushing
Seals can get dislodged....easier to just replace valve vs removing valve and repairing/replacing seals (already have valve out---just put new one in)

Pros/cons.........blade valves for mfgs are 'CHEAPER' to produce
Major reason no ball/blade/butterfly valves available for waste tanks
(along with 'cons' mentioned above)
When we bought our used coach from a really nice elderly couple, they told us the black tank valve leaked a little but worked just great and that is why they kept a cap on the end. First thing I did was take the valve out in preparation of replacing it. I found a really small hearing aid battery stuck in the groove that prevented a good seal . So I removed the battery, used a little Plumber's Grease, one pair of disposable gloves and I was back in business.


BTW, I checked the battery, and it was dead dead dead
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