Blowing the main power breaker 30A?

[53block]

Hello gentleman, I have a 2000 fleetwood bounder 15k miles, genset 1100 hrs.
Had it a little over a year. Have only had to do minor repairs been pretty dependable. Anyways my last major repair was a converter. I went from the old style 45a converter to a new style 3 stage 60 and upgraded the wire size. In the Texas heat the air conditioners run all day non stop. I have been popping the main breaker often out of nowhere now. The first time happened when we were at a Cookoff and I had a shop fan plugged in. Now 2 weeks later it does it all the time. The only way it does not do it is if I unplug the converter. Does that make sense? Could it just be that the breaker is bad? I tried a simple swap of wires to run it on a 20a circuit and it blew in 2 minutes with both A/c's and the converter plugged in. Put it back to the way it was and its purring like a kitten.
What could be causing this?
The fix?
How long will the climate control signal run off of 2 batteries in parallel with 120ah
I also noticed the main power is a stranded wire, why would it be like that? Figured all breaker wires were copper? Don't wanna overload that wire.

[Tha_Rooster]

If you are running 2 airs on 30amps they probably draw 10 to 12 apiece that's 24amp plus a fan and other things that's max. Once a breaker pops its hot it will continue to through easy that's my guess. If i'm seeing correctly you have 170amps of breakers running on a 30amp main?

[YC1]

Feel the breaker. I suspect it is very hot due to running right at its limit. When they do their capacity is dimished. I recently experienced a similiar issue with mine. The panel is in a closet with no air circulation. With two AC's running full tilt the panel was extremely warm/hot. I have spaced the cover panel about 1/8 inch so some air can flow out. The inside was very hot when I removed the panel. I am considering installing a small fan but in the mean time leaving the closet door open and having the spacers installed it is working fine.

[Old Scout]

Not sure "we" are following here??? You say "main" breaker is popping--what made breaker coach or CG pedestal???? IF you are on 50 amp [4-post plug], you should have enough for two A/Cs and the inverter/charger. If you are on 30amps, one a/c is all u can get unless everything else is off. If you are popping the 20 amp breaker for the front a/c only, then that breaker may be weak or your front A/C is going out and drawing too many amps. You new inverter will draw 15-20 amps to charge the bats so yes, it will contribute to/in combination with one of the A/Cs. PM me if I confused you.....

[FlyingDiver]

The converter is drawing too much power, in conjunction with two ACs it's overloading your system. First, replace the 30amp with a new one, in case the old one is wearing out and tripping early. Second, set the amp draw on the converter down to minimum during the day when both ACs are running.

The feed is probably stranded because it runs to the batteries and possibly vibrates or has to move to pull the batteries out. Only use solid when nothing on either end has to move.

[53block]

Thanks for the replies. I am on a 30a hookup, not 50. It's blowing the main breaker in the Rv, not at the shore power breaker.
This is my converter

How long will the climate control run off of the two batteries? I know it just uses 12v for the control board, surely It don't run as much as lights.

[YC1]

Make sure your refer is on propane as well as your water heater. Leave one AC off for a couple of hours until the charger catches up with the batteries and lowers its draw.

[RV Wizard]

The reason for stranded wiring to the main is simply for vibration as has been mentioned.
I would suggest you unplug the shore power cord and start at the first junction box and/or transfer switch and assure that all wiring is clean and tight. Move to the electrical distribution panel and assure the same for main and all circuits both hot legs and neutrals. I would go one step farther to assure that the connections on the higher amperage loads, like the air conditioners, are clean and tight. Then I would test the operation of the system using a clamp on amp meter to measure the amperage of each air conditioner and the main for the whole coach.
Make sure the battery bank is in good condition as a weak or bad cell can cause the converter/charger to put out full load when in the same scenario, a good battery bank may only have to have a float charge. This will reduce the total amperage of the coach and help in the tripping of the main breaker above its rating, if you can keep it below 30 amps in this case then the breaker should not trip out on amperage. If the breaker is getting excessively hot this is an indication there is arcing, usually caused by loose connections or pitted points in the breaker. Good luck, stay safe and keep us posted.

[mgscott4]

X2-- I agree with RV Wizard, Check all of the wires in your breaker panel. disconnect your power cord and generator and make sure all of the wires are tight. Tighten all of the breaker wires, neutral, and ground connections. I tighten mine once a year, solid strand wires tend to loosen due to vibration.

[Jimooo]

FYI. Stranded electric wire is more expensive to make , has more flexibility , very good for vibration or constant moving it will carry the same amps as a equal size solid core wire.

The solid core electric wire will have less heat from overloaded , has tighter impedance , will carry the same amps as equal size stranded wire.

The major difference between these two is ( phase stability ) which the solid core copper wire it is easier to balance phase loads.

Good luck,

James

[ChasA]

About stranded vs. solid wire: current moves on the outside surface of wire, not through the copper. Stranded wire of a given diameter will have more surface area (circular mil area or cma) than a solid wire and therfore carry more current. This is why battery cables and welding cable are always stranded. And the better cables have more and finer individual strands.