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Old 01-26-2017, 09:59 AM   #1
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Brake Over Heating

Putting new brakes on a 05 Thor on a Workhorse and found this, 22,000 miles.
Drop a gear to descend those hills please.
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:08 AM   #2
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Either that or please make sure your will is up to date.

There are always some good shockers on here - http://imgur.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop


http://imgur.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/TR5Z5
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:00 AM   #3
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Which Workhorse chassis? The W20 & W22 has a Brake recall that addresses sticking calipers, which could very well cause overheating and subsequent rotor damage like that.
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Old 01-26-2017, 12:46 PM   #4
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Which Workhorse chassis? The W20 & W22 has a Brake recall that addresses sticking calipers, which could very well cause overheating and subsequent rotor damage like that.
Yep,,, excessive downhill brake usage can cause this but i'd bet money it was because of a sticking caliber. It's not limited to just the W20 and 22. I have the P32 chassis and have had to put up with this problem at all 4 corners.
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:18 PM   #5
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Thanks for sharing this, as it could help others avoid potential dangerous situations in the future.

We had a very short period of problems with our 98 Bounder, on a 99 F53 chassis, with the front left brake. I got to where when stopping for breaks, and or fuel, I would hit both of the front inside brakes with the temperature gun. That was one sure way I could tell if the left brake was again dragging a bit.

While not as common in the new chassis, say post mid 90's(?), the improvement in the brake fluids has really increased the levels temperatures need to climb too to cause fluid steaming/boiling. (Just recently had a friend with a 1 Ton truck complain that his brakes seemed different while doing a long climb down an interstate near San Diego (I8 West). After we talked for a few minutes, I asked him when was the last time he had his brake fluid changed? With an answer that talks about the many, many drivers that don't know that this needs to be done. (Mid 80's 1 Ton Dodge. He'd had it since day one, and never changed the brake fluid. Was on his original disc, but had personally replaced the pads at least twice.)

Glad you caught yours before it caught you!
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Yep,,, excessive downhill brake usage can cause this but i'd bet money it was because of a sticking caliber. It's not limited to just the W20 and 22. I have the P32 chassis and have had to put up with this problem at all 4 corners.
W20/W22 owners don't have to put up with the problem. The factory recall will replace all 4 calipers and flush the fluid, free of charge to all owners. Simply call an Authorized Workhorse Chassis Service provider and give them your VIN; they can tell you if the recall has been performed. Just had mine done (new to me 2004 Itasca on the W20 chassis); recall was still open but has now been taken care of.
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:55 PM   #7
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Which Workhorse chassis? The W20 & W22 has a Brake recall that addresses sticking calipers, which could very well cause overheating and subsequent rotor damage like that.
We checked the vin, recall was done in 2014.
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:40 PM   #8
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One of the simplest way to inspect for a sticking caliper is to put the vehicle on a slight incline, put the transmission in neutral and lift your foot off the brake.... if on the slight incline the vehicle starts to roll on its own... you know that at that time, there isn't a drag... almost any amount of drag will prevent roll...

BTW we used to turn a large amount of mid size Truck and large RV rotors... some of the surface cracks in the picture are normal, however the deep, all the way through crack of course is not...

Each rotor has a throw away dimension on the side of the rotor.... if turning and than surface grinding removes a very large majority of those cracks it can be returned to service... its the same way with surface heat cracks in brake drums and Flywheels... a certain amount is expected and in some cases acceptable... the surface needs to be evaluated by a professional after the rotor/drum is turned and measured for safety....

Hope this helps...
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:03 PM   #9
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To those that have similar MH's - Please don't drive your coach like a car. Especially on downhill runs. Get that speed down going over the top then hold speed with lower gear (like you stated) and harder but shorter brake applications then let them cool a bit between applications. Don't ride them all the way down the hill. I never turn rotors - they go in the garbage and I get new ones. My current coach though, has massive drums and exhaust brakes but I still go over the top slow then speed up if I have to.
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:46 AM   #10
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The sticking caliper issue can be caused by the basic design of "Sliding calipers" (I'm making the assumption that Ford, Workhorse, and Chevrolet all use sliding caliper brakes).

Sliding calipers only have piston(s) on one side so, in order for the pads to press on both sides of the rotor, the entire caliper must be free to move so it acts like a clamp on the rotor. If the calipers doesn't slide, only one brake pad grips the rotor, resulting in significantly reduced brake effectiveness. Chevrolet sliding calipers must be lubricated to maintain the capacity to slide, and I'm sure this is needed in some form for others.

Sliding brake calipers are a cost reduction from fixed calipers with piston(s) on both sides, are used in many applications, and work properly if everything slides. High performance cars do not have sliding caliper brakes...make your own judgement.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jelag View Post
One of the simplest way to inspect for a sticking caliper is to put the vehicle on a slight incline, put the transmission in neutral and lift your foot off the brake.... if on the slight incline the vehicle starts to roll on its own... you know that at that time, there isn't a drag... almost any amount of drag will prevent roll...

BTW we used to turn a large amount of mid size Truck and large RV rotors... some of the surface cracks in the picture are normal, however the deep, all the way through crack of course is not...

Each rotor has a throw away dimension on the side of the rotor.... if turning and than surface grinding removes a very large majority of those cracks it can be returned to service... its the same way with surface heat cracks in brake drums and Flywheels... a certain amount is expected and in some cases acceptable... the surface needs to be evaluated by a professional after the rotor/drum is turned and measured for safety....

Hope this helps...
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