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angelbones · 12-28-2016, 12:42 PM

Hey all, went to see family out of state this weekend and of course an issue arose, and thus the question in the title. I suppose more background is needed though. When hooking up to city water, the tank kept overflowing out the gravity fill holes. Never had this happen before so WE THINK the problem is the check valve in the water pump not shutting it down and causing the overflow. In other words, the city water keeps filling the tank and will just keep going unless we turn the city water off. At least that's what our research seems to show (unless anyone has other thoughts).

So, in lieu of city water, we used our water pump for our needs. In short, the water pump worked for us. However, there is a little more info to be known. About a month ago, I tried using the water pump to fill the hot water heater with vinegar/water solution to flush it (RV Geeks has a video on it). The pump really did struggle to suck the vinegar out of the container, and needless to say it took a while of filling, siphoning, lifting, or whatever to accomplish this relatively easy task. Other times, the water trickles out, but eventually does seem to kick in. Then when we got back home, we noticed that the pump was hardly doing anything. That said, it still works, but just seems to take a while to "prime" the system. (Not sure if anything we did at the CG using city water would have effected the pump which of course was not on when hooked up). When we first got the coach 6 months ago, I don't recall this much delay in running the water, but then again I wasn't looking for this issue.

I can buy a check valve for about $10 and it is an easy repair. However, part of me says to just replace the whole pump for about $60. Always looking to save anywhere we can when possible, but sensible enough to spend when needed. I guess that's the question. Do you think a check valve will suffice? Our coach is only 3.5 years old and it seems a little soon for it to go out. Do water pumps go out often? Are the water pump conditions I describe above normal? If not sounding normal to you, then I think my answer is clear. I know some people only use the water pump when at a site and never use city water, but if something's not working I'll fix it, and would like to use just city water IF the check valve is the only problem. What should I do?

lp1957 · 12-28-2016, 01:18 PM

Had exact same issue last time out. Called Thor Customer Care from campsite and the technician advised to have complete pump and by-pass valve replaced (we're still under warranty). Also recommended external shut off valve that can be turned off when on city water as a backup in case of check valve failure. Good luck with your repair.

Bigd9 · 12-28-2016, 01:38 PM

With Fleetwood products there is three possible ways for city water to enter the water tank. One is like you mentioned, the small backflow valve in the pump itself. The other, is the gravity fill pipe, and lastly and probably more likely in my own opinion, is the switching valve. The one you switch from city water to tank fill positions. Make sure it is fully seated in the city water position. If that valve is open or even partially open, you will get the same problems you are experiencing, that is tank fill, and lack of suction/pressure from the pump.

Make sure the switching valve brass stem is actually turning when you move the lever. My coach had a black plastic lever and the lever would turn, but the actually valve stem was not turning. It had stripped the hole in the black plastic handle.

I hope your water pump is easier to get to than mine is! If it was me, and the problem came down to parts or new pump, I would go with the new pump. They make much better ones now than my 10 year old pump in terms of pressure and volume. But getting to it???????? Mine is a bear.

angelbones · 12-28-2016, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigd9

With Fleetwood products there is three possible ways for city water to enter the water tank. One is like you mentioned, the small backflow valve in the pump itself. The other, is the gravity fill pipe, and lastly and probably more likely in my own opinion, is the switching valve. The one you switch from city water to tank fill positions. Make sure it is fully seated in the city water position. If that valve is open or even partially open, you will get the same problems you are experiencing, that is tank fill, and lack of suction/pressure from the pump.

Make sure the switching valve brass stem is actually turning when you move the lever. My coach had a black plastic lever and the lever would turn, but the actually valve stem was not turning. It had stripped the hole in the black plastic handle.

I hope your water pump is easier to get to than mine is! If it was me, and the problem came down to parts or new pump, I would go with the new pump. They make much better ones now than my 10 year old pump in terms of pressure and volume. But getting to it???????? Mine is a bear.

One saving grace about the pump on my unit is that it is right there in front where my water hookups are, so should be easy to change. Funny you should mention the black plastic lever. On either my cold water drain or my hot water drain, I don't remember which (not to be confused with the hot water heater drain), I called Fleetwood directly because I wanted JUST the lever replaced as it broke off. Of course, I had to buy the valve attached to it as well. Ended up costing about $30 for a $2 part. This has nothing to do with the valves you mentioned, but just thought it funny you mentioned the black lever as it turned out to be a pain for such a simple basically cosmetic part.

BFlinn181 · 12-28-2016, 02:56 PM

Most RV water pumps are not self priming, water has to flow by gravity from the tank down to the pump inlet. Introducing air into the inlet line, by using the anti-freeze hose is one way to lose prime. If the switching valve from city water to tank fill is faulty, it might also allow air into the system. Cheaper solutions first. I'd try replacing the switching valve and see if things improve before buying a new pump. I wouldn't buy it from Fleetwood, find an alternate RV parts supplier. It will be much cheaper and perhaps better quality.

If the one way valve at the water pump is failing, your water pump would short cycle because water would leak back into the tank, pressure would drop, and the pump would come on.

Bigd9 · 12-28-2016, 07:09 PM

I'm kind of confused. I thought all RV water pumps were self priming. So that got me to checking. I know the Shurflo line of pumps that I checked all are self priming up to 6 vertical feet, and the Flojet line of pumps are, some up to 10 vertical feet, the Seafresh line are with some up to 8 vertical feet, Seaflo are up to 7 vertical feet, and even one I never heard of called Surgeflo at $18 are self priming. So which one do you have that isn't self priming?

powercat_ras · 12-28-2016, 07:28 PM

If you had trouble drawing liquid in with the pump, you might make sure all your threaded fittings are tight on the intake side of the water pump. Sometimes if a water pump does not prime it is because it is sucking in air at a loose fitting. They should all be as tight as you can make them by hand.