Camping in below freezing conditions

[CycleSki]

I am looking to purchase an RV in the 29' to 35' range that I might be using in winter like conditions. Are their any units that are good for these below freezing conditions and or units that can be used in these type of conditions?

[Leftys]

There are a lot of things to consider but in general you’re looking for a “4 season” designation. You may want heat pads on the tanks or even better a heated basement. Tank freezing is one concern. Human comfort is another and some are just more air tight than others. You’ll want propane heat, not just heat pumps. Bigger propane tanks, double pane windows, some residential fivers are insulated.

[RandDescape]

We’ve had good luck in both our Newmar class A coaches.

The Canyon Star has propane furnaces and we had no issues keeping it warm when the outside temp was in the low 20s F (we didn’t camp much in winter). The wet bay was heated by the furnace or by the optional 110v heating pads. Our ‘15 had the optional roof insulation.

Our Ventana has also been easy to keep warm Down to 10F using the Oasis (its an all electric coach with a diesel burner for when the electric elements in the boiler aren’t enough).

The Oasis is a great system and draws from the same fuel tank as the engine in a DP. Other manufacturers use Aquahot which is a very similar product.

As mentioned by others double pane windows and insulation are key to winter warmth in an RV. And you need that to include any place there is water (the wet bay). You can compare windows and insulation via the specs/manuals - and also via sound. On my Ventana with the TV on at teenage boy car chase movie volume I can be outside and not hear very much sound - certainly I can’t hear dialogue.

For more targeted help you may want to list what temperature you plan to spend time in and DP vs Gas and new vs Used etc.

Good luck

- Richard

[Gormleys]

And it always depends upon how cold it gets. You still may need to put something between the chassis and the ground to help insulate. When it dropped below zero here in Colorado couple of weeks ago a "4-seasons" fifth wheel ended up with very expensive frozen tanks. A couple of old incandescent light bulbs may have saved a lot of cost trying to melt them. Luckily, they only needed to be thawed as nothing burst.

[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I would certainly look for an RV that is "all season" rated. Even then, I would be very cautious, depending on how cold you are expecting to experience. This is what I did and it might give you some ideas!

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/bay...rs-149096.html

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[LarryinID]

The ones with tank heaters are stupid unless you plan to always have shore power. On top of the heater fan they will kill your batteries quickly.

Running the generator all night on a still cold night bad idea too. They put the exhaust under the slide so CO can seep in.

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by LarryinID

The ones with tank heaters are stupid unless you plan to always have shore power. On top of the heater fan they will kill your batteries quickly.

Running the generator all night on a still cold night bad idea too. They put the exhaust under the slide so CO can seep in.

My generator exhaust is on the driver's side in front of the slideout. It would be easy to use one of those exhaust pipes that take the fumes to the top of the MH.

[twinboat]

[QUOTE=LarryinID;5166821

They put the exhaust under the slide so CO can seep in.[/QUOTE]

Who are they ?

I haven't seen an exhaust pipe under a slide yet. Mine aren't.

Besides, the pipe is small so it shoots the exhaust out away from the RV to mix it with the surrounding air.

[sibe]

I assume you are looking at a Class A,
Do some home work if you are serious on cold weather camping < 30-40 degrees..

As mentioned
Windows, double pan
Heat into the Tank area, Tanks that are considered inside..
If there are a skylight or two, make sure they are dual/weather style. condensation between the skylight and interior panel.. I just found that to be a sore spot in myClass C.
Slides , seals and construction, again air leaks mean wetness .

Most have adequate insulation.. Some may be have actual winter design check the specs..

I know a few people up in my area that are in gas drilling and spend there stay in RVs and winters up here in PA near NY boarder is nasty and they stay 24/7....
I looked at a few to buy when these guys leave to another job.. Some are nice and some show signs condensation.....

A FYI in my old Minnie 28ft.. single windows but seal well the inside if cabinets and the drivers area in the class C gets some wetness when temps are 20 is day and nite..
I am renovating and running the heat Frday,Sat sundays.. cracking a window and opening cabinet doors help..
I am suprised that the tank bays actually stay dang warm in this oldie..

Good luck on your quest

[Bigd9]

We just got home from taking our 35 foot Discovery out to a ski area campground. Temperatures dropped down to the low 20 at night and we didn't have any problems at all. We have experienced 0 degree temperatures in years past.

I do keep a 200 watt personal heater going in the wet bay and it manages to keep the entire bay about 20 degrees warmer than the outside temperatures. I have a second 200 watt heater for the really cold temperatures.

I recommend dual pane windows, and tanks that are not exposed.

[House Husband]

Fleetwood has been heating the holding and fresh water tank areas on Bounders since 1986. Since the mid 90 all Fleetwood class A MH have heated wet bays.
We survived -7°F one night in our 95 Bounder. Furnace set at 70°F and we woke up to 68°F the next morning. Furnace run all night with out a break. We learned our limitations.
The cat didn't complain so I guess we did good.

Richard

[dirt40]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

My generator exhaust is on the driver's side in front of the slideout. It would be easy to use one of those exhaust pipes that take the fumes to the top of the MH.

Our generator exhaust is the same. We use one of the genturi exhaust pipes that go up the side to the top.

[Full.Monte]

You are smart to consider cold weather camping before you buy. I have gone through this with our Tiffin. It's my experience that there are few motor homes that are true 4-season units. We camped for a week last year in the snow and it got down to 8 degrees. In a couple days, our fresh water tank froze into a block of ice, making the entire water system unusable. The propane didn't work. It had a quirk, where it would work at home when it was warm, but wouldn't heat when it got cold. Bummer. We were on 30A electric, and only had the capability of running one 1600 watt heater in the coach for heat. That allowed the coach to warm up to 23 degrees internally at night. Not enough.
I made some changes this year. First, I rewired the coach for 50A service. Not an easy or quick job. This allowed us two or three 1600w electric heaters, which did the job nicely. We also ran an electric blanket. Nice. Next, we left the bathroom vent open to eliminate condensation build-up in the coach. We covered the other vents with those square pillows made for insulating vents. Next, we arrived at the campground with no water in the fresh water tank. We then hooked up to the water supply through a heated hose (Camco) and connected it to the City Water connection in the RV. That eliminated the block of ice problem. Next, we put a 250 watt mini electric heater in the water bay to keep things from freezing in there. We made it through 8 days fine, even though it snowed every day. I had fixed the propane heater and it was standing by for backup, but we didn't need it.
Windows are the biggest heat loss path, so if you can find a coach with double pane windows, you are doing well. I would also look for a coach with 50A service already installed. I also wouldn't necessarily believe any dealer who claimed the coach he was trying to sell you was a 4-season coach. I have never seen one. That doesn't mean they don't exist, but building a true 4-season coach is a lot more expensive than building a 1-season coach, and most manufacturers don't build them. Good luck with your search!

[sibe]

Originally Posted by Full.Monte

You are smart to consider cold weather camping before you buy. ........ The propane didn't work. It had a quirk, where it would work at home when it was warm, but wouldn't heat when it got cold. Bummer. We were on 30A electric, and only had the capability of running one 1600 watt heater in the coach for heat. That allowed the coach to warm up to 23 degrees internally at night. Not enough.
I made some changes this year. First, I rewired the coach for 50A service. .............. if you can find a coach with double pane windows, you are doing well. I would also look for a coach with 50A service already installed. I also wouldn't necessarily believe any dealer who claimed the coach he was trying to sell you was a 4-season coach. I have never seen one. That doesn't mean they don't exist, but building a true 4-season coach is a lot more expensive than building a 1-season coach, and most manufacturers don't build them. Good luck with your search!

curious on the propane,,

what was issue


3 weeks back it was 1 degrees, i waited to sunrise to go out to RV , I am doing a reno.. by 9am it was 7ish.. I had a small electric heater on plugged into shore. it had the inside of the minnie 29RQ at almost freezing 30ish LOL

I fired up the ONAN 4000 as a test, fired the heater stayed on as a load.
I then turned on the Propane heater.. set thermo to 60..

Well by 10am it was toasty, heater cycled for a while as we got to around 28 as a high out side..

Cracked a vent but this is where the Drivers area was getting WET, the entertainment center is up there and the flat area that meets the C class roof was sweating,, The AC was dripping inside so I dropped the defuser and did a quick insulate,,

The Skylight in shower was soaked.. This was a leak area prior to my owning..
. Today I took inside down and the wood is toast, not from outside but the condensation.. I removed the loose stuff, Made a new cieling piece from hall into shower.. insulated the skylight, vapor barriered and it is no more from the inside.. The Hall light is fine for lighting the shower..

I like your retro to 50 Amp.. I was going to split my 15K AC off and do a similar quick fix.. The Onan pushes 30AMP plus, but the wiring is not made to be at the MAX in any RV..

Today started at 18 degrees, Ran heat til 10 and by noon the weather was nice almost 40 out.. Got the Reno 90% the Shower Skylight was set back.. But glad I fixed it up.. I just need some FRP board for top shower walls and on the new cieling above the shower itself..

I am not sure if I am brave enough for a long cold camp for more than a day or 2.. . If I had a newer rig maybe but my 15 acres in the mountains with a small house does well as a get away.. Our RV is just for weekend trips here and there..